Most of the basic service tasks on the GL1800 are
straightforward enough. Spark plugs, brake pads and even rear wheel removal are
all easier to do than on previous Goldwing models. However, replacing the air
filter causes many GL1800 owners to think twice about doing the job themselves
because the top shelter has to be removed to get at the filter. This tutorial shows the
procedure I used to do the job.
If you need
more than just the pictures and instructions here, go to the end of the page and
download the video clip of me replacing the air filter on another (blue) GL1800!
Click the thumbnails for a bigger image.
First it's off with the side panels and saddle. When you remove the Allen
bolts, firmly push the riders backpad rearwards until the two white tabs at the front of the saddle
clear the shelter bracket, then look under the front part of the saddle and
ensure that the lug under the saddle is clear of the bracket. Then just lift the front up and away. Check that the
rubber spacers under the saddle (where the bolts go through) are still in place.
Tip; Use plenty of soft cloths to cover
any panels that are even remotely at risk from falling bolts, screwdrivers etc.
The front shelter has to be removed next. Start by taking out the two fairing
pockets. The right one is held by two self tapper screws and two clips. Push the
centre of the clip in and then just lift the whole clip out. Unhook the lock
cable from the right pocket. Tip; When
reassembling, don't forget to put the cable back or you won't be able to open
the pocket. If you do lock it with the cable disconnected by mistake, you don't
need to remove the top shelter again. Just remove the trim piece and the
lockable panel and then work your paw up to the white lock clip shown in
the picture, then just pull down on the part that the cable sits into.
Pop the speaker grilles out from the top. Tip;
When refitting the grilles later on, remember to give them a firm push downwards
after they are clipped in, otherwise you may lose them one day while out
riding. The middle picture shows the concealed Allen bolt being removed,
there is one under each speaker grille. From the ignition key area, pull the
meter panel backwards (towards the rear of the bike), NOT upwards or you will
break the tabs that sit in the four hidden rubber grommets (two in the clocks
and two below the ignition switch). Reach under the right side of the ignition
switch and free the connector shown in the third picture here. Then just pull
the panel clear.
The fairing trim is easily removed without tools. Just start at the bottom
inside part and pull outwards, then work your way up the whole trim as shown in
the first of these four pictures (when refitting the trim pieces, always start
at the top and work down). Then (as shown in the five pictures that
follow) remove the nut on each side of the shelter rear, the Allen bolts under
the trim pieces each side and also each side (just under) of the clocks. Don't
forget the two screws (last picture) just below the ignition switch.
Also in the last picture, you can see the rubber grommets that the meter panel
sits into. The grommets either side of the LCD display usually come away with
the meter panel, so make sure you put them back in place like in the third picture.
Also in the third picture you can see the thick wire harness passing under the
shelter. When you fit the long CB wire, cable tie it along this harness (and the
frame rail above the right side panel) and make
sure that the shelter doesn't pinch them when refitting! Tip; The Allen bolts under the trim are several
different sizes, make a note of where each one goes.
Lift the rear of the shelter up, then release the antenna wire from the rear
left of the audio unit and also the two connectors from the front of it. These
are easy to see with the shelter up. Then just lift the whole shelter away. It's
fairly light so you won't need any assistance here, just be careful you don't
scratch your paintwork.
This is the view of the ECM with the reverse/cruise module piggybacked on top
of it.
After removing the two connector blocks from the reverse/ cruise module and
the three from the ECM, gently pry the tabs on the mounting housing up and slide
the reverse/cruise module out to the left.
Now pry the single tab at the bottom middle of the housing down and slide the
ECM out to the left.
Now push the wires out of the way and remove the four 10mm headed bolts (two
on right and two on left side) from the ECM base. Also remove the two Phillips
screws (at the top of each picture) and pull off the two air inlet ducts from
the filter box lid.
Remove the connector from the sensor on the filter box lid, then pull the
whole ECM base and wire up out of the way. Just leave them on the handlebars and
you will have plenty of room to get at the filter box lid.
Loosen the seven screws in the lid and remove the lid. No need to take the
screws out all the way, the lid comes out evenly and the screws will stay in
place as you lift it up (less chance of dropping them into the abyss this way).
The old filter exposed. This one had 20,000 miles on and was well overdue for
changing. Just take it out and
clean out the filter box with a clean rag. Put in the new filter and reassemble
everything. Before replacing the plastics, it won't do any harm to initialize
the ECM. This
will ensure that the bike runs properly from the very start. To initialize
the ECM, start the engine and allow it to warm up to it's normal operating
temperature and stay running for at least 90 seconds after. If you are not sure
what the normal operating temperature is, just wait until the fans come on and
wait the 90 seconds after that before switching off the engine. It's very
important that you don't operate the throttle during this time, otherwise you
will need to repeat the process. That's it boys and girls, a nice new air filter
installed. Replace the plastics and saddle and away you go. You won't need to
face this job for another 8,000 miles!
First it's off with the side panels and saddle. When you remove the Allen
bolts, firmly push the riders backpad rearwards until the two white tabs at the front of the saddle
clear the shelter bracket, then look under the front part of the saddle and
ensure that the lug under the saddle is clear of the bracket. Then just lift the front up and away. Check that the
rubber spacers under the saddle (where the bolts go through) are still in place.
Tip; Use plenty of soft cloths to cover
any panels that are even remotely at risk from falling bolts, screwdrivers etc.
