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post #71 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 07:57 PM
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Location: Rochester NY
Year: 1979
Make: Honda
Model: GL1000
Posts: 18
Ok guys, I just replaced the tensioners on my GL1000. I just wanted a couple second opinions before I cover everything back up. I used grade 8, 3/8" hardware torqued to 30lbs. I did my best to center the bolt in the larger opening on the tensioner plate before I torqued them. I assume that once they are tightened it won't really matter if the idler is perfectly centered because the spring will compensate. The only thing that concerns me is the washer sunk into the opening on the plate.

I ground down the spacer plate that goes behind the tensioner to allow it to move as usual with the added material from the hex head. Everything seems to work as intended.

Any reasons I should alter what I've done here?
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post #72 of 74 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 02:04 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ft.Wayne, Indiana, USA
Year: 1981
Make: Honda Goldwing
Model: Gl 1100
Posts: 2,106
Great pictures and glad to see the conversion is working.Just had to share that since I did mine back in 2009, I haven't had a problem. 7yrs.and working great. Thanks again Jim
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post #73 of 74 (permalink) Old 07-30-2016, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Rancho Cucamonga, California, USA
Posts: 4,494
Just a quick note that the PDFs instructions are back at post 42 or 43 or so..
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If a man speaks in the forest and there is no woman to hear him, is he still wrong?
2000 GL1500SE
1983 GL1100I
But formerly San Diego, Terra Haute, Aiken, Oak Ridge, Tonopah NV, Pasadena, and probably going back to Aiken..)
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post #74 of 74 (permalink) Old 07-31-2016, 02:19 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Oologah, Indian Territory, USA...
Year: 2002
Make: Honda
Model: GL1800 Hot Rod Yellow
Posts: 50,530
Great article Jim, glad to see it is still being referenced.
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