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Old 08-19-2009, 11:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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In the past I have had a problems with the anti dive system on my GL1800’s, until I fixedthem.
The history
I have two medium mileage GL1800’s (2003) one for me and one for my wife, both bikeshave suffered with an anti dive problem. The brakes operate a slave cylinder that activates an anti dive actuating valve on the left hand side of the front forks, this slave cylinder only functions when the bike is moving.The slave cylinder has been changed twice on one bike and once on the other leaving me to believe that GL1800’s suffer with this problem. I have ridden many other 1800 wings and least two of them had the same problem but the owners were unaware anything was wrong until they rode my bike! My bikes are regularly serviced and the brakes have had the brake fluid replaced twiceto date.


The symptoms:

While riding along normally the bikerides wonderfully smooth until I had to slow down or stop. The anti dive valve stays on until it decides to relax; during this time the front end of the bike becomes skittish at very low speeds or while cornering. Theproblem is also evidentwhilenegotiatingspeed humps in the road, I always slow as I approach them and then release the brakes before I make contact with them, but the suspension remainsfirm and seems tobounce over the speed hump. The result is that the suspension can finish up almost fully extended after crossing a series of speed humps. I once stopped after crossing one of these speed humps and put the bike on its side stand and waited almost 10 minutes for the front forks to relax back to the normal position.
On the third time this started to happen I (being an engineer) decided to take a look for myself.


The Fix:

The brake slave cylinder is the problem, it forces a 5mm pin into the anti dive actuator tolock upthe left fork during braking. This slave cylinder is supposed to return upon releasing the brake lever but it doesn’t always behave as it should, it cantake some time to return to its resting position. I took it upon myself to effect afix that works better than ever and has been working well for the past year. Myfix was to fit a small rubber 'O' ring over the pin and remount the slave cylinder to its rightful place, that’s it!


Method 1:
The rubber ‘O’ ring is 2.5mm(0.098”) in section x 5mm(0.196”) bore and 10mm (0.393”)O/D made of black silicone rubber, it sits in a void between the slave cylinder and the anti dive actuator. It doesn’t impede anything or prevent anything working it just helps the plunger to return to its rightful position.
To get at both the slave cylinder and the anti dive actuator is simple… first, remove the top front portion of the mudguard (top front fender) by unscrewing the four recessed (5mm) socket screws. This brings the two units into view on the front of the lower left fork leg, There are two (4mm) socket screws, one each side of the slave cylinder. Undo these… (don’t worry the two items can be separated and there should be no leaks, springs or nasty surprises) and insert the ‘O’ ring, checking first that your ‘O’ ring fits comfortably, without friction, over the 5mm pin on the slave cylinder and in the 10mm recess in the top of the anti dive actuator.


Method 2:
You can use two ‘O’ rings instead of the one.(above) The first ‘O’ ring dimension- 1.8mm (0.070”)in section x 5mm (0.196”) bore x8.5mm(0.334”) O/Dand theSecond ’O’ ring dimension- 1.8mm(0.070”)in section x 6mm(0.236”) borex 10mm(0.393”) O/D, bothblack silicone rubber.The smallest ‘O’ ring sits on the 5mm pin without friction and the larger ‘O’ ring sits in the recess on top of the anti dive actuator, one on top of the other when assembled. Note: when putting the two units back together be sure the ‘O’ rings are still in place. This gives a slightly slower anti dive reaction under very light braking. I favor this fix.

You can, if you’re daft enough, (yep that’s me) ride the bike with the two units separated!!! but the bike will dive every time you use the brakes.


WARNING
. If you try to fill the void between the two units with rubber the anti dive becomes next to useless. If your bike is still under warranty let Honda sort it. If you have found a leak of any kind from either unit STOP what you’re doing and inform your service centre.


Happy riding



[align=center]Photos and their descriptions
[/align]
Here are the pictures I hope they are useful Below is a description of each picture

The front mudguard (fender) removed 4x5mm socket screws






Using a 4mm Allen key to detach slave cylinder






The slave cylinder detached and not leaking







The top of the anti dive actuator showing the recess






The two rings I use are still in good working order and the only two tool required for the job






The largest silicone ring in the recess






The smallest ring over the 5mm pin - indicated by a screwdriver







Care taken to place the two items together






Securing the slave cylinder into place using the 4mm Allen key







Replacing the front mudguard (fender) using the 5mm Allen key



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Old 08-23-2009, 02:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Good post Paul.
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Old 08-23-2009, 02:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Paul, could you pull one of the units apart and take some pics of the location and fitting of the 0-rings? As this will clarify the text of the fix a lot more clearly.

Once you've done this then maybe Steve could add it to the tips page and the index.



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Old 08-23-2009, 03:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Great post, and with the possibility of pictures this sure would be appreciated.



Thanks again,

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Old 08-23-2009, 04:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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This post is now indexed and will be in the FAQs after folks have seen it for a while.
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm a bit busy at the moment but I will se what i can do about the photos
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The piston on mine was stuck out so the antidive was on all the time. Talk about a rough ride. I was able to push it back with a fair amount of pressure, but I didn't think I could trust it. So I made a spacer to disable it. Sounds like your idea will put some pressure on the piston to push it back. Will give it a try when I am in the fixing mood.
Thanks for the tip.
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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As per Paul's request, I have inserted all of the pictures and their links should someone want to download the actual pictures.

A fantastic job Paul, Kudos for great work.
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Old 08-26-2009, 03:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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This is good stuff Paulover the last 4yrs,, ive spent £300 or more with my anti dive,,this would have saved me ££££££,,cheers
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Old 08-26-2009, 04:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Got to love it. New member with just 4 posts and he does this kind of work.



GREAT WORK PAUL



Your inputs with the new pictures will make my winter project much easier plus taking a corrective action as well.



Again many thanks.



Now what is your next project?



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MORE TAIL WAGGING and less barking please.

Heading for the sun set and checking the boxes along the way. (until the keys are taken away)


Ned

Past rides:
USS TENCH (SS 417)
Yamaha 65
Honda 85
Kawasaki 125
Penton 125
Zuki 185
Husky 250
Honda VTX 1300

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