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Final drive 1986 SEI

2K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  wingsam41 
#1 ·
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Some wear on my 86 SEI's final drive noted on rear tire install no lube from PO. I see some on ebay etc. Some say 84-87 fitment. Anyone know for sure which will work?
 
#2 ·
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That sounds about right, but I am still somewhat of a novice on what interchanges on years. I still have my final drive, swing arm and brake caliper from where mine was triked @ 35K miles, if you are needing one.
 
#3 ·
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You can use a 1500 final drive and wheel too, just drill holes on swingarm/shaft bigger for 1500 bolt size.
 
#4 ·
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Rob-pm'd you regarding that yes interested...
Newday...thanks for the info, intereseting but would rather find a matching part so no meddling around required. Good to know though for future. Are the 1500 tire wheel sizes the sam as the 1200's if not any issues changing. Handling,noise etc.
 
#5 ·
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There is posts on doing it that could answer better than me. Do a search.
 
#6 ·
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Thanks-will do. PO never lubed have a clunk everytime I take off from stop. (Unless I ride the clutch that is) I like jumping off the line and it's a little unnerving. Also wondering about kind of a clunk or rattle over bumps on highway like when pavement is bad and you hit raised section every 20 feet. Feels like trunk is moving around yet no play tugging on it etc. Wondering if noise sensation is also from drive. Wheel side teeth looked ok but drive not so good-all from no lube-what an ass the PO was. Lots of stupid stuff like this wrong with bike mostly fixed now. BTW have recently installed new head bearings, serviced forks/bearings good, installed progressive front springs, new swing arm bearings and new rear wheel bearings since zI was right there.
 
#7 ·
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are the shock bushings good? That possibily will give you that clunk. Check top and bottom. There was a post on that recently. Did you pull out the driveline and check the u-joint and lube the front splines too? Does it clunk when you let off the gas? U-joint will do that.
Happy Thanksgiving
 
#8 ·
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U joint ok I think and no clunk when letting off. Was planning on checking shock bushings. Had my mechanic do the rear stuff as did not want to mess around with tire change he siad he checked 'em but not so sure. I have grabbed shocks and tugged on 'em but I know that's probly not enuff. Shock bushings are exactly what it would feel like-thanks for reminding me, Again I had suspected that but as the mechanic said the were ok I kinda forgot about it. Partially my fault as I had him do the work when he was very busy. He is normally not like that and I try to do as much of my own work as time allows but this 1200 has been a little needy. Low miles but years of neglect-makes me angry when people aquire things, let them go to hell and then still expect mint condition price-remember just reading another post to that effect mentioned boat etc. and it was right on!
 
#9 ·
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First, don't be so sure all years are the same. I hear that "fits 84~87" all the time and in so many cases it's wrong. Look up the part numbers.

You are going to have to take the back of the bike apart yourself and find out what the problem is, if there is one.
 
#10 ·
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Yup agreed-believe it is 2 probs though, clunk in final drive and road noise I believe may be the shock bushings will check tomorrow. Best bet would be to get one off another SEI-no messing around. Anyone have that post about the shock bushings handy?
As to there being a problem - there is. Already saw worn teeth in final drive teeth so nothing to guess about. Not certain it's causing the clunk and may keep current drive installed for few seasons yet but would like a backup.
 
#11 ·
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If the teeth are worn down, it could jump a tooth under hard accell. That could be the clunk. Do you have another 1200 to swap parts for a test? Kinda souded that way in you last reply. That would be a quick find out if its there or have to look more.
Just because the part numbers are different doesn't nean they won't fit, just have to try-test.
 
#13 ·
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If you use the worn final drive for a few seasons you'll probably ruin the spline in the driven flange.
Any year GL1200 final drive will fit, however if you have to replace the flange you'll need one from an 86 or 87.
 
#15 ·
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PM sent to you
 
#16 ·
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The clunk could be from the driveline splines. When torque is applied to the shaft though the clutch the splines can lock together if they aren't properly lubed. When the bike first starts to move the splines in the shaft have to be able to change their length a little bit. If they're dry or poorly lubed they can stick and then suddenly shift a bit as the shaft begins to turn. It's important that these spines are lubed with Moly Paste. That's not moly grease which usually has less than 5% molybdenum, Moly Paste called for by Honda is at least 60% moly. Honda 60 and Loctite Moly paste will do the job. It isn't cheap, I paid $26 for an 8oz. can of the stuff. that much will last for a long time on several bikes. All the splines on the bike should be lubed with the stuff.
 
#18 ·
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Thanks. Moly paste just liberally applied during new tire install about 3 weeks ago. Problem is that PO neglected to lube for who knows how long and some wear is evident. Have 2 issues one the clunk and 2 the noise over certain road bumps. I'm not certain but both could be caused by shock bushings. Did a search on shock bushings and found one by OregonWinger (Titled End of rear wheel clunk) that states clunk from stop fixed by bushings. Planning to shed light on this mystery this weekend...
 
#19 ·
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Check the rear wheel bearings too. Honda had a real issue with rear wheels on some 1200's. The bearings would loosen up in the wheel. I've seen this on quite a few.
 
#20 ·
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Sorry-those just done too. Rear end work recent-new tire with moly paste liberally applied. New rear brakes and some caliper clean-up. New swing arm bearings an new rear wheel bearings. Think we might be on to something with shock bushings at least for one issue. Planning on purchasing spare final drive but will check/change shock bushings first. If all well after that will just hold onto drive till current one wears out.:shock:
One thing looking at honda parts schematic off bike bandits website not sure which are actual bushings.
Item 13 listed as Bush upper but item 11 listed as rubber joint. See Link...

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...le-gl1200se-i-aspencade-se-i/o/m2351#sch23673

Are there lowers? Havent had it apart just yet. Are there upper and lower bushings-Anyone who has done this? May just PM OregonWinger since he had a post on this.
 
#21 ·
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That fiche is confusing, huh? It looks like 13 is a lower bushing to me, but they list it as an upper. A different year ('87) lists them differently but it looks like the same drawing.

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=146715&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1987&fveh=3449



This ('86) fiche is the same as bandit, but prices are better.

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=146868&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1986&fveh=3451



One thing you might want to check is the assembly. those bushings (#11) are important, but often left out because they get damaged during disassembly.Also, I haveseen people mis-assemble the upper shock mount. Eithermay cause things to move and make a clunking sound.
 
#22 ·
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Thanks Dennis-thought I was losing my marbles...was wondering why they would draw a shock upside down?

I have western hondas site saved in my favorites as well-just use bike badit for checking parts usually-both seem to be robbed from Honda. Occasionally they have decent prices on specials but usually too high.

I am really thinking something in the shocks will be the cause of the clunk as well as the other problem. Seems as though the clunk would be more immediate if it were in final drive. I can ride clutch and delay clunk until like 10-15 feet of travel. I am thinking I will definatley find some wear.

It's cold today high of 32F but supposed to be 45F and sunny on Sunday so would like to still ride so that may affect when I tear it down. At this point may wait until the first snow as I have more maint and prettying up to do over winter.



Also, check PM-still interestedHillbilly Rob, and thanks!
 
#23 ·
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Third wheel, I have an 84 Aspy, have a clunk, checked the rear wheel for play, found some, removed the wheel to replace the bearings, found the bearing on the drive side to be loose in the bore.. any way to fix this short of replacing the wheel....thanks....
 
#24 ·
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About the only way to repair a bearing recess like that is to have it bored out and sleeved at a machine shop. You'd probably be better off financially to find a used wheel. Shouldn't be too much of a problem since wallowed out bearing recesses wasn't a common problem on the 1200s as it was on some 1100s. A better solution would be to replace the rear wheel and final drive with one from a 1500. It's a fairly simple modification to do and the rear end parts from a 1500 aren't too hard to find. The advantage is that you'll end up with a wheel that has replaceable rubber and aluminum isolator blocks which earlier 'Wings don't have. You'd need the whole enchilada, rear wheel, driven flange, and final drive.
 
#25 ·
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I had to replace my final drive and driven flange on my 1987 a couple of years ago. This is what I found out, (if I remember correctly).

In 1986, a change was made, resulting in a different driven flange and final drive for the 86/87. So, an 84/85 will not fit the 86. But, a GL1500 from years 88/89 will fit, with perhaps needing to drill out mounting holes which go to the drive shaft.

Best is to watch e-bay for a used driven flange and final drive, and get them as a mated pair. They are still out there, but getting harder to find. I think you will be fine riding the bike as is, as long as you baby it.
 
#26 ·
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wingsam 41, i will try to lead you through this, the 84 & 85 wheels and flange are different than the 86 & 87 . honda had trouble with the wheel bearing in the 84 & 85 wheel, the bearing came loose in the wheel. the 86 & 87 honda corrected the problem. still with me? the center hole of the flange in the 86 & 87 is larger than the center hole of the 84 & 85 flange to allow for the bearing fix. now here is another thing, the flange off of a 88 & 89 gl 1500 is the same as the flange off of a 86 & 87 1200 so if you cant find the gl11200 flange watch for the gl1500 flange. hope i didnt confuse you. happy holidays walkabout :)
 
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