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Old 12-06-2005, 04:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ok, so I've heard it mentioned that it is possible to replace the clutch plates while the engine is still in the frame.I have also heard that the necesary information on how to do this is in the Haynes manual. If anyone has first-hand experience with doing a clutch job without pulling out the engine, please give me the details. Scans of whatever service manual has the appropriate instructions would be ideal. I've got the week between christmas and new-years off from work, and I'm going to tackle this project, and a few others on the wing, but I absolutley, positively don't want to pull the engine out of the frame. Just for reference, it's a 1984 1200 Interstate.
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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it can be done, however, you will need access to a spare clutch basket to align the plates. The diaphragm spring used must be installed with it on the bench. it is a straightforward procedure, smply remove the three bolts on the slave cyl, and then the bolts on the cover. remove the lifter plate, remove the hub nut, and pull out gently. reverse order to reinstall. clearance is tight, but it is very doable. took me about an hour each way (in&out) to do the job.
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Why do you need to align the plates?

On previous clutches, all I've had to do is remove a retaining plate that had 5 bolts in it. Under each bolt was a spring. Then I just needed to pull all of the plates out, and replace them, one by one. Steel plates would only fit in a certian way, and friction plates would only fit in the other way. Can you draw a diagram of what I can expect, or find a picture? I really want to get a better idea of what's going on in there before I tear into it. This will be my 3rd clutch job on a bike.
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Old 12-06-2005, 06:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I think because you have a diaphram type of spring and not the individual ones you speak of is probably the reason why. I would also like to pull mine and if Rocky chimes in, I'm sure he's done his without pulling the motor???.......Aslo I think a special socket might be necessary to loosen off a locknut holding the whole deal together. My 750's clutch was easy but the 1200's have a different set up. Pretty sure the engine must come out if you are replacing the basket with the clutch.
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Old 12-06-2005, 06:42 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yes, the diapragm spring is in the back of the clutchpack, and is held in tension by a circlip. the whole pack of steels and frictions comes out as one piece. if the frictions are not aligned, they will not go into the basket. if you have a spare basket (cheap on ebay) the whole thing is real easy. this clutch does not use coil springs like most bikes, if it did, it would be a non-event to change the clutch.
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey philcsand, PM with your email address and I will send you jpegs of what you need.
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok, so wingmaster has given me a lot of information that is very valuable. I have 2 more questions.1. What did you guys use to hold the clutch pack in place while removing the clutch nut? Can I just shift into 5th gear, and hold down the brake pedal?2. What size castle wrench do I need to undo the clutch nut? (I call them castle wrenches, they look like a pipe with 4 spikes sticking up... same type of thing you would use for the steering stem nuts.)I want to make sure I have all of the necesary parts before starting, simply because I need to ride about 10 miles to get to the place where I work on my bike, and I won't transportation while the bike is in peices.Oh, and if anyone who lives in the greater Seattle area wants to help, Krispe kreme awaits...
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:24 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I did mine last year.

1) I put the bike in gear and put a piece of pipe thru the rear spokes(?) so that it would jam against the swingarm. You just have to switch it to the other side of the swingarm when reinstalling because of the change in rotation.

2) Not sure of the size but I fashioned mine out of a 15/16 socket using a hacksaw and grinder. Other sizes might work, that's just the size that I had a surplus of.

I aligned the clutch plates by eye and had no problem. But they do have to be extremely close to the proper alignment. Not a whole lot of play in the basket assembly. It was a lot easier to do than I thought it would be. The only part that was a problem was getting these old knees up and down to get at it. I also put the wheels and kickstand up on about 6 inches of lumber to get a better shot at it.
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Old 12-07-2005, 10:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ok, its time for me to be honest. I just beat the heck outta the nut (in the proper direction) with an old screwdriver to get it off. I just left the bike in gear, and the basket didnt move unless I wanted it to (to realign the notches) with the starter.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Be carefull you don't over compress the disks when dealing with the retainer spring. You might end up bending some. It dosen't need much travel space to be released. And I think the hammer / wack-a-way method is probably the most used method. Sort of universal for everything in life.
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