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Old 04-18-2006, 12:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Guys, I'm confused, I am almost sure that my stator is bad and I will rplace it myself. Which one is the best bang for the buck? Do you have to pull the engine out to replace it, because it looks like all you have to do is pull the back cover and then the internal cover. What am I missing?



Thanks

Chris
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Well if you think you can, please give it a shot, but take photo's and a detailed description. You can sell them in this forum to just about every owner of the 84-87 models

If you have determined that it is the stator, you can go one of two routes, pull the engine and replace the stator or replace with an auto alternator which if you search her you will find plenty of advice and links. You being in the US, I do believe if you geta Honda dealer to do it , it comes with a lifetime warranty.
I am on my third stator and gathering parts for an auto conversion in the event this too will die although having done lots of wiring alterationsand installed the EC harness this might not happen.
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Welcome to the greatest GOLDWING FORUM on the face of the earth, CMorris.

You can do it, and there will be all kinds of great help right here.
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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hey chris I know on my 86 my local wrench says you have to pull the engine and it is a $1000 to replace the stator Larry
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Old 04-18-2006, 10:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I really doubt that it is possible to pull the rear case without removing the engine, hence the "cost" of replacment being so high. doing the work yourself, at least has the knowledge of a "job well done" as, while it is a pain in the #ss, it is very douable. Don't know how many miles your bike has, but If I had the rear case off, I would replace the clutch at the same time.
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Old 04-18-2006, 11:09 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info guys! Looks like I will get all the advise I will need here. The wing only has 27,000 original mile. It has been sitting in a shop building for the last 14 years. I think the stator was out before it was parked, seems like very few miles to have it go bad. I have not tried hard-wiring it yet. the connector looks fine, no heat damage. I checked it at the harness with a multi-meter and got very bad results. If i ride her any amount of time, the battery will go dead and the bike will cut out and die on me. it runs great other than that.

chris
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Old 04-18-2006, 03:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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cmorris wrote:
Quote:
Thanks for the info guys! Looks like I will get all the advise I will need here. The wing only has 27,000 original mile. It has been sitting in a shop building for the last 14 years. I think the stator was out before it was parked, seems like very few miles to have it go bad. I have not tried hard-wiring it yet. the connector looks fine, no heat damage. I checked it at the harness with a multi-meter and got very bad results. If i ride her any amount of time, the battery will go dead and the bike will cut out and die on me. it runs great other than that.

chris
Chris, while it isn't impossible for the stator to go out at that low of milage it isn't a sure thing either.. Before pulling the engine & replacing that stator you really should check it's output & check for opens & grounds first..

To check charging system output-------

*You will need a small DVOM voltmeter, while a digital meter is best an analog meter will work if you are good with it & fully understand it's use..

The connectors for the stator tests can be accessed form just in the front of the battery area by pulling the L/H battery side cover off.. The connector is in the 3 yellow wires that run up just in front of the battery vent hose..


*The battery doesn't have to be fully charged for the tests but should be good enough to at least start the engine a few times..

Once the battery area cover is removed you will find three yellow wires running just in front of the battery,, if still original there will be a (3 wire plug) in those 3 yellow wires,, if the wires have been hard connected (soldered) there will be some sort of tape or solder joint in the 3 yellow wires in that area..


You will need to: either disconnect the plastic 3 wire plastic plug, or use side cutters & cut all three yellow wires (they must be disconnected from the front wiring).. You can cut them all at once as their re-connection order really doesn't matter. That connector MUST BE disconnected (or the yellow wires cut) or you won't be able to do a good meaningful test, or be able to get accurate voltage/ohm readings while testing. You will need to be sure the terminals inside the connector are clean & oxidation free, (or if burnt, or dirty, that the yellow wires are cut back far enought to get to clean wire) in order to get solid usable test data..

The 3 yellow wires coming out of the rear of the engine need to be lettered (or numbered) (either 1,2,3, or A,B,C) so you can tell them apart during the testing procedure..

*To run the test,, get your voltmeter set on the 100 volt AC (Alternating Current) scale & the probes hooked up & placed where you can access them easily..

To test-- Start the engine & warm it up a little,, then run the engine at 3000-4000 RPM's.. With the engine running at close to 4000 RPM's, place the voltmeter probes across the 3 yellow wires that come from the rear of the engine making sure you test all the combinations (A to B,, B to C,, C to A.. If your stator is in good shape you should show 50+ volts A/C across all the legs (A to B,, B to C,, C to A.. The voltage should be fairly close to the same on all 3 legs also.. Be sure to run the engine at least 3000-4000 RPM's for a short while before testing as it can take a little time for the stator output to come up & stabilize..

If you have good voltage readings, then your stator is probably "good-to-go" yet..

If you have an ohmmeter function on your voltmeter you can also do a basic resistance test..

Start by placing your meter on the X1 scale or X10 scale analog meter (or the Ohm, or K scale on a modern digital meter).. When taking the readings, be sure of what scale you are reading on as even a good stator will show a slight resistance to ground on the M scale or even the higher end of the K scale..

Measure from each of the yellow wires to a good CLEAN engine ground, you should show close to infinite (NO continuity) with no shorts to ground in any of the yellow wires coming from the rear of engine. Don't use your fingers to hold the bare probe ends to the wires or that alone will show resistance..

Then measure between yellow wires A to B,, B to C,, & C to A,, the resistance should be somewherebetween 1 to3 ohms (depending on the stator temperature & amount of oil soaked into the windings) across any of the 3 legs & close to the same on all 3 legs..


If you still have the production plug in those 3 yellow wires you really should cut that plug out then crimp on splice clips, then solder the three yellow wires to the front 3 yellow wires, then cover each wire individually with heat shrink tubing..

Twisty




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Old 04-18-2006, 04:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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IF you do end up having to replace your stator and you decide to do it yourself, you should really consider pulling the rear wheel and final drive unit. It will make engine removal/installation much much easier. I've recently replaced stators on 2 different '87 wings and it was very easy to do with the U-joint back out of the way. This job (stator replacement) isn't that hard but it is going to take you some time since you've not done one before. The extra hour or so it will take you to remove the rear wheel and final drive will be time well spent. . .
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Old 04-18-2006, 04:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Great info, guys! Yeah i already had to pull everything off the rear to take the fuel tank out to have it cleaned and repaired. Like you sais, its just time consuming, nothing that complicated or hard about it. I should be a pretty decent bike mechanic after this is over. Im going to cut the stator connector out tonight and hard wire it just to be on the safe side.
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Old 04-19-2006, 11:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Cut the connector out, did not have a soldering gun readily availabe. Butt crimped the wires and still did not get ****!!!! The stator is fried, will keep you posted!!
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