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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
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I have a 1982 Honda Goldwing 1100, my front forks are leaking, what kind of a job is it to change the seals and what kind of oil do I use and how much oil do I add. Thanks so much
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 04:33 AM
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i remeber my had leaking fork seals,first off u need special tools to disassemble.seems my best option was to do removal myself and take to honda dealer for repair,and reassemble after forks were returned.hope this helps ron

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 06:11 AM
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Ronald1 wrote:
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I have a 1982 Honda Goldwing 1100, my front forks are leaking, what kind of a job is it to change the seals and what kind of oil do I use and how much oil do I add. Thanks so much
Ronald, you should be able to do those fork seals without pulling the forks off the motorcycle (just pull the lower sliders off).. You will need a set of snap ring pliers to remove the seal backing snap rings (above the seals) & some sort of seal driver (a 2 piece driver if you leave the upper fork tubes attached to the bike).. A piece of split PVC plastic pipe makes a good seal driver..

Probably the hardest part is pulling the lower slider attaching bolts as they will tend to spin inside the tubes if you don't use an impact wrench..

If your bike has been ridden without fork oil or has lots of miles on it you will probably also need slider upper slider bushings (if they are still available)..

As far as oil type? Any of the commercial fork oil's will work as well as auto trans fluid.. Last 1100 I did I just used ATF but some people use 15 or even 20 weight fork oil.. I don't have the quantity handy but someone that has done an 1100 recently will probably furnish that info so look for further posts here..

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 06:20 AM
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Ronald1 wrote:
Quote:
I have a 1982 Honda Goldwing 1100, my front forks are leaking, what kind of a job is it to change the seals and what kind of oil do I use and how much oil do I add. Thanks so much"

"
You could do it yourself but it is not going to be easy.

Lift the front wheel from the ground.
Remove:
The front wheel.
Front fender
The speedo cable and the speedo clamp.
The brake calliper/s , just hang them with some rope or wire on the sides of the bike.

You need to remove the fork leg or legs.
However before removing the leg/s you need to empty the fork oil.
Unless you got the special tools necessary so you can do the job on your work bench you nedd to :
Undo the fork bolt at the top of the fork BEFORE removing the fork leg/s from the bike.
Be Careful the spring has a lot of upward force pushing against the fork bolt. So when the bolt is totally unscrewed it wants to fly away. Put a bit of weight on the tool and fork bolt all the time whilst unscrewing it and you will only feel a pop when it is off.
Remove the spring inside the fork leg.

Under the fork leg there is a hole and inside it you got a bolt holding the inner fork leg.
Whilst the fork is still in the bike undo this bolt.

Then and only then, loosen the upper and lower fork leg pinch bolts.
The fork leg/s will slowly glide down or you can pull them by hand.

Place the fork leg on your work bench.
Remove the dust seal.
Then remove the stopper ring under the dust seal.

Pull the inner fork leg until it is released from the lower fork leg.
The oil seal, back up ring, slider bushing will all come out with the inner fork leg.
Remember in which order they were sitting on the fork inner leg/tube.

Now you can replace the oil seal.
Take some fork oil on your fingers and put some of the inner lip of the oil seal.
Use the old oil seal and a soft plastic hammer to drive the new oil seal very carefully all the way in the lower fork legs upper part.
If the old oil seal gets stuck use a screw driver to bend it out.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DAMAGE THE NEW OIL SEAL.
Also make sure that all the rings etc. that came out whilst separating the upper and lower fork legs are back in same order under the oil seal.


Push the inner leg back inside the lower fork leg.
Hand tighten the bolt that holds it in place, the one at the bottom of the fork leg.
Make sure that the fork leg/s are evenly and equally inserted in the steering stem from the top.
Tighten the pinch bolts.
Tighten the bolt at the bottom of the lower fork leg holding the upper leg.
Put the springs back in.
Tighten the oil drain screw.
Fill the leg/s with new fork oil to correct level.
Ask a strong , no make that very strong friend to help you push the tool and the top fork leg in so you can tighten it.
Be careful the top bolt has a very fins thread and you need to apply a lot of force and weight to get it in the upper fork leg.

All of the aobve is if you do not have any of the special tools needed.

Since you asked what is involved.

If you have not done it before and you are not sure you can do this job, take the fork/s to a workshop for repair.


Have fun, Drive safe and enjoy your ride.
GL1500SE
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 07:04 AM
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GL1500SE wrote:
Quote:
Ronald1 wrote:
Quote:
I have a 1982 Honda Goldwing 1100, my front forks are leaking, what kind of a job is it to change the seals and what kind of oil do I use and how much oil do I add. Thanks so much"

"
You could do it yourself but it is not going to be easy.

Lift the front wheel from the ground.
Remove:
The front wheel.
Front fender
The speedo cable and the speedo clamp.
The brake calliper/s , just hang them with some rope or wire on the sides of the bike.

You need to remove the fork leg or legs.
However before removing the leg/s you need to empty the fork oil.
Unless you got the special tools necessary so you can do the job on your work bench you nedd to :
Undo the fork bolt at the top of the fork BEFORE removing the fork leg/s from the bike.
Be Careful the spring has a lot of upward force pushing against the fork bolt. So when the bolt is totally unscrewed it wants to fly away. Put a bit of weight on the tool and fork bolt all the time whilst unscrewing it and you will only feel a pop when it is off.
Remove the spring inside the fork leg.

Under the fork leg there is a hole and inside it you got a bolt holding the inner fork leg.
Whilst the fork is still in the bike undo this bolt.

Then and only then, loosen the upper and lower fork leg pinch bolts.
The fork leg/s will slowly glide down or you can pull them by hand.

Place the fork leg on your work bench.
Remove the dust seal.
Then remove the stopper ring under the dust seal.

Pull the inner fork leg until it is released from the lower fork leg.
The oil seal, back up ring, slider bushing will all come out with the inner fork leg.
Remember in which order they were sitting on the fork inner leg/tube.

Now you can replace the oil seal.
Take some fork oil on your fingers and put some of the inner lip of the oil seal.
Use the old oil seal and a soft plastic hammer to drive the new oil seal very carefully all the way in the lower fork legs upper part.
If the old oil seal gets stuck use a screw driver to bend it out.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DAMAGE THE NEW OIL SEAL.
Also make sure that all the rings etc. that came out whilst separating the upper and lower fork legs are back in same order under the oil seal.


Push the inner leg back inside the lower fork leg.
Hand tighten the bolt that holds it in place, the one at the bottom of the fork leg.
Make sure that the fork leg/s are evenly and equally inserted in the steering stem from the top.
Tighten the pinch bolts.
Tighten the bolt at the bottom of the lower fork leg holding the upper leg.
Put the springs back in.
Tighten the oil drain screw.
Fill the leg/s with new fork oil to correct level.
Ask a strong , no make that very strong friend to help you push the tool and the top fork leg in so you can tighten it.
Be careful the top bolt has a very fins thread and you need to apply a lot of force and weight to get it in the upper fork leg.

All of the aobve is if you do not have any of the special tools needed.

Since you asked what is involved.

If you have not done it before and you are not sure you can do this job, take the fork/s to a workshop for repair.
GL1500SE, why do you pull the entire fork tubefrom the motorcycle? The on-bike triple clamps make wonderful upper tubeholders.. If the upper tubes are left on the bike (lowers only removed) it only takes about45 minutesto do those fork seals..

Twisty

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 07:32 AM
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In order to examine the inner tube and the bushings to makesure that they are not scratched or worn and that none of them has reached it’s service limits.

Have fun, Drive safe and enjoy your ride.
GL1500SE
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 09:27 AM
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GL1500SE wrote:
Quote:
In order to examine the inner tube and the bushings to makesure that they are not scratched or worn and that none of them has reached it’s service limits.
GL1500SE, by pulling those lowers with uppers still retained on the bike the upper bushing will come out when the lower slider is pulled off & the entire bottomof the upper slider tube will be hanging there in plain sight to examine.. I know the book says to pull the entire fork tube but it also says the engine has to come out for a starter replacement..

Next time you do those seals try leavingthe uppers on the bike, you will see pulling the uppers gains you nothing but a lot of extra time & work..

Twisty

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2006, 09:51 AM
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Twisty,
I totally agree with you if the case was only about changing the oil seal or checking for visible damages.
BUT, have yet to see anyone who by ONLY looking at the fork tubes, without examining them with a micrometer, can tell if the runout of the tubes are within the service limit or not.
You know how easy it is to hit something with your front wheel and bend the fork tubes.

Do you agree?

When it comes to finding shortcuts or time saving methods, believe you me I am amongst the forerunners of the field.,
Like the very simple way I change the fork oil. Without having to remove the fork bolt. so on.

Have fun, Drive safe and enjoy your ride.
GL1500SE
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