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Old 04-28-2006, 07:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I have a 1985 Aspencade. When I try to use the turnsignals at a low speed they do not work. When I get it up to about 4000 rpms they will work some times. As soon as I press the brake, or the fan turns on, or any other power item, the signal turns off. I tested a little over 16 vdc when running with out the brake light, it goes down to 15 vdc when the brake is pressed. Where would I begin to look at finding the power draw that is causing not enough power for the signals. I swichted the flasher with the flasher from the emergency's (which work) no change. Thanks alot.



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Old 04-28-2006, 08:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check your voltmeter to make sure it is correct


This is from the Honda Manual

If the output voltage is outside of 14-15V when the
engine speed is increased, check for a:

Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier.


Maybe this might have something to do with the erratic light problems

My normal voltage reading is 14.8v max
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Old 04-28-2006, 08:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I tested the Stator using a method with my volt meter stated in another forum here. The wires seem to be quite warm, and when I shut to engine off there is a sound as if the battery is boiling.



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Old 04-28-2006, 09:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sixteen volts at anytime seems rather high to me. You might want to go over your wiring especially around the regulator and battery to make sure the connections are clean and tight and not corroded. Check the grounds for good connection. The voltage drop at your flashers sounds like some of the system grounds might be corroded.
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Old 04-28-2006, 11:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I was wondering why his emergencys would work and not his signals?

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Old 05-03-2006, 07:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I replaced to voltage regulator today and that did not cure the problem it is still showing 18 + volts at the battery when it is running. Not sure where to go next with this.




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Old 05-03-2006, 07:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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DinostopYou really need to followexavid's advice and go over the wiring again, paying special attention to the connectors. False voltage readings sensed by the regulator, thru faulty connections will play havaoc with the regulator.
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Old 05-03-2006, 08:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Dinostop wrote:
Quote:
I replaced to voltage regulator today and that did not cure the problem it is still showing 18 + volts at the battery when it is running. Not sure where to go next with this.



Dinostop, first start by checking your voltmeter for accuracy.. Usually a 1200 Wing can't make much over 16 volts against the operating load & battery load..

If youare really making 18+ volts you can't have much else drawing power..

In any case IF your regulator is in working order there are only about 2 things that can cause high output voltage.. The first is: one (some have two) of the green ground wirescoming out of the regulator not connected to a good CLEAN ground.. The other & more likely your problemis the black (or black/green) wire coming out of the regulator is NOT seeing ignition-on system voltage.. That black (or black/green) wire MUST see system voltage as that is what the regulator uses to judge it's output from.. If there is NO or LOW power on that black (or black/green) wire the regulator will call for all the power it can & that will drive charging voltage through the roof..

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Old 05-03-2006, 10:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Found that the meter was bad. Which is a great thing considering I replaced the voltage regulator. My orriginal problem of the turn signals not working very often, and the head light dimming when ever I press the brake is still occurring




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Old 05-06-2006, 04:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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As Exavid and Twisty have stated, I would verify your battery at this point and all electrical connections, it sounds like the battery is getting hit with higher pulsating DC and is acting very much as a capacitor with accepting and discharging of electrons. Your reg and its zener diode will limit the output voltage from the alternator and I will accept that, since you have replaced it. Verify the ac voltage on the alternator is equal on all 3 lines, get help to hold the meter while you read it. Label the leads A,B and C and read the voltages at the same RPM steady A to B, A to C and then B to C. You may also have a diode shorting on one side of the full wave rectifier.But I still have to agree with the gurus that a check of all connectors especially grounded connectors. With poor ground conduction your system will provide grounded voltages above or below the nominal 12V , especially since the alternator has a floating neutral. All connections must be clean, use contact cleaner or brake cleaner, blow dry, put them in and out 3 times and do not use any grease at all, to seal up, especially while you’re diagnosing the problem. Remember at 300-500 watts, the electrical system will always be warm to hot to the touch, especially the crappy and dirty joints since amps will be flowing all the time even if everything is off since the alternator will be dumping the excess to ground and that grounded connection must be good, clean and tight. At 12 volts nominal, the complete system, every joint, every connection needs to be good and clean otherwise the dirty connections will impede the flow of electrons in every possible manner, making troubleshooting a nightmare. The easiest thing for you to do and without any electrical knowledge is to do housecleaning. Tools required: Hands, eyes, contact or brake cleaner, small brass brush, small tooth brush, rags, compressed air, possibly a metal pick, PATIENCE.

Above all SAFETY GLASSES, NO SMOKING, REMOVE THE BATTERY AND CHARGE IT SLOWLY TO FULL FLOAT AND A NOW $8 HYDROMETER TO CHECK THE BATTERY. BE SURE TO VERIFY THE BATTERY VOLTAGE BEFORE INSTALLING. NEED HELP ASK!
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