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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Ok maybe I am expecting to much out of the battery! It is a brand new AGM Maintenance Free Battery battery that replaced the old 50-N18L-A battery,that was having trouble starting the "Betty Mae" inthe warm summer. I went out to take her to work and she turned over and grunted and grumbled and spit one or two time and said leave me alone. Question can I safely jump start her in the morning? I have a Heavy duty Deep cycle battery I use in the camper for lighting. Oh by the way my wife's name is Betty Mae that is why the cycle got the name. Whoops did I say that

All kidding aside I am open to suggestions, I have not been able to ride because of snow on the roads and know all that is there is salt.

Chet

1981 GL1100
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 10:33 AM
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Man that's cold!
The lowest I can stand is 45 degrees.

Honda recommends straight 10W oil below 32 degrees.
If a thicker summer oil is in there it's dragging the engine.

It's ok to jump it with another battery but that will put additional strain on the starter and likely shorten it's life so I'd have a replacement ready to go on.
Also it's a good idea to crank with the kill switch off to get some oil flowing before starting to save the engine bearings.

Edit: actually 10/40 is recommended also, I missed that line

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 11:48 AM
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i dont think the glass mat batterys care too much for a high amperage jump start if thats what you are saying. i think you would be better off putting a tender on it or set your battery charger if you have one to the lowest amperage charge and let it warm up a tad and then trying it. your deep cycle battery might be ok but i think there are better options for a new agm battery. jb

2003 yamaha vstar 1100 classic 2004 honda rebel 250 {2}1983 aspencades + 83 Interstate 82 Aspencade <2>77 gl 1000 1981 Interstate <2> 75gl1000s 76 Gl1000
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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"Edit: actually 10/40 is recommended also" "i think there are better options"

I am running 10 - 40 oil. I have noticed that the headlight and tail light stays on all the time that I have the starterengaged. It seems to me that would draw an good bit of power from the battery. Is there a way to turn the lights off while I am cranking the starter and get more pep that way?

1981 GL1100
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 01:35 PM
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First-Goldwing wrote:
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"Edit: actually 10/40 is recommended also"¬*¬* "i think there are better options"

I am running 10 - 40 oil.¬* I have noticed that the headlight and tail light stays on all the time that I have the starter¬*engaged.¬* It seems to me that would draw an good bit of power from the battery.¬* Is there a way to turn the lights off while I am cranking the starter and get more pep that way?
There's a problem in your starter circuit, the headlight should turn off when cranking. What specifically turns it off I cant say for certain. Maybe someone can offer up that info.
My headlight turns off while cranking and I've noticed the headlight starting to get a bit "lazy" coming back on when the start button is released so I need to look into this also.

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks I just thought that the headlight was designed to stay on when cranking.

Chet

1981 GL1100
Keep the dirty side down and the clean side up.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 01:51 PM
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JBZ wrote:
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i dont think the glass mat batterys care too much for a high amperage jump start if thats what you are saying. i think you would be better off putting a tender on it or set your battery charger¬* if you have one to the lowest amperage charge ¬*and let it warm up a tad and then trying it.¬* your deep cycle battery might be ok¬* but i think there are better options¬* for a new agm ¬*battery. jb
A tender is an excellent idea, a heated parking spot is even better.
Mine cranks slow when it dips just into the 50's in the garage.

You might want to do other checks of the starter circuit as well. There could be other problems causing the slow crank.

My Dad lived in MN most of his life, he'd tell me all kinds of stories of the hassles they had starting cars in the cold. He never had a heated garage.
I'm sure glad we moved to sunny So Cal when we were kids so I didnt have to deal with it!

Maybe someone in the cold climates will chime in with some other suggestions. Do they make block heaters for bikes?

1983 GL1100 Interstate with 1200 engine, single carb, and C5 ignition.



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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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dan filipi wrote:
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a heated parking spot is even better.
Mine cranks slow when it dips just into the 50's in the garage.

You might want to do other checks of the starter circuit as well. There could be other problems causing the slow crank.

I'm sure glad we moved to sunny So Cal when we were kids so I didnt have to deal with it!

Maybe someone in the cold climates will chime in with some other suggestions. Do they make block heaters for bikes?
Boy I wish I had a heated spot. I asked Betty if I could bring the cycle in the living room not a good question. The cycle cranks over very good except when it get below 30 degrees. Then it is SlOOOOW. That would be good if they made a block heater, I kind of doubt it. My son lives in Calamesa Ca. I love the weather but my wife doesn't.

Chet

1981 GL1100
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 02:17 PM
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The starter button is supposed to open the headlight circuit, if the headlight is still on when you crank the engine it's not surprising it would do so poorly in cold weather. In the headlight circuit there's two wires that go from both high and low beam terminals on the bulb to the high, low switch on the left handlebar. The common headlight wire from this switch goes to a normally closed contact on your starter button on the other handle bar and from there to the ignition switch and eventually to a fuse in the fuse box which supplies the 12V. The problem would appear to be in the starter switch on the handlebar, it is not opening the pole on the side that controls the headlight. The other pole of the switch that closes to initiate the start circuit is still working. You might try taking the switch apart since something obviously came loose inside or the switch welded itself closed. Most likely you'll need to hunt for a new control.

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-06-2007, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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exavid wrote:
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The starter button is supposed to open the headlight circuit, if the headlight is still on when you crank the engine it's not surprising it would do so poorly in cold weather. In the headlight circuit there's two wires that go from both high and low beam terminals on the bulb to the high, low switch on the left handlebar. The common headlight wire from this switch goes to a normally closed contact on your starter button on the other handle bar and from there to the ignition switch and eventually to a fuse in the fuse box which supplies the 12V. The problem would appear to be in the starter switch on the handlebar, it is not opening the pole on the side that controls the headlight. The other pole of the switch that closes to initiate the start circuit is still working. You might try taking the switch apart since something obviously came loose inside or the switch welded itself closed. Most likely you'll need to hunt for a new control.
Wow Thanks for pointing me in the right direction I will take a look at the starter switch. I will start a hunt fora new switch.

Thanks

Chet

1981 GL1100
Keep the dirty side down and the clean side up.
Chet
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