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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Location: , Minnesota, USA
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Ok Folks,

I have diskumbooberate my forks with a goal of replacing the seals and weather seals. I have a few questions, hopefully someone out there has run into the same issues and has an anwser for:

1) How in the dickens to I get the old seals out? I mean like, I didn't expect them to fall out but good grief, those suckers are really in there. Any tricks to this?

2) I went to order new seals, weather seals, clips, etc on-line for the front forks and it looks like there is three different part numbers for a 79 Honda GL1000 fork seals. Did they have three different sizes that year? I can't believe they did...

3) What type of oil do most of you put in? I have the Clymer's and the service manual and know what they recommend, but I thought I would ask.

4) Any one know where I can get air shocks for a 79 GL1000? As you can see from my picture I have a side car on this thing. I am replacing the front springs with progressive springs and may use the 'side car' trick in the Clymer's if they still don't feel right.

This is a fairly easy motorcycle to work on. Well other than a few bolts that are pretty rusted. And it really is very relaxing too. I even found some oil in one of the forks I've only had this bike for about a three months (one month of riding before I started to rebuild).
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 09:00 AM
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Shoe, did you remove the forks from the bike? I do, it's so much easier on the bench.
First pull the caps off to remove the springs, careful, they can fly out at you. then loosen the triple clamp bolts and slide the forks out. Clamp the caliper mounts in a vise. Pull the dust seal off, remove the snap ring, remove the screw in the bottom of the slider, an impact with an allen bit is the easiest way but sometimes they come out by hand. Then push the tube all the way in and pull it out sharply, do this as many times as it takes to pop the seal out. Then you can clean it out good, check the bushings for wear, They will show copper on the inside of the top one and outside of the bottom one if they are worn.

Darksider #304 the force is strong in this one.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 11:41 AM
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Go here and read the thread. Note you don't have to take the top nut off the fronts you can refill the forks from the bottom drain plug with the forks off the bike, a little tubing a turkey baster..use your imagination, hint..let it blur between squeezes.
Note the thread is for 1100 but they are the same as far as changing seals etc. just a little fatter tubes.

I used AFT as recommended but your can use any oil the heavier the stiffer the ride.

There are a set of air shock tops on eBay right now for the 1000's

I got my seals on eBay too, I'd get bushings while you at it..if they show any of the copper is worn through it's a must. The ones from the UK 11.95

To remove seals bounce the my list about half way down, also note taken the bottom allen bolt out while the forks are still on the bike...the triple tree holds them better than a vise. in my opinion

1981 GL1100I Sold sad!
1976 GL1000 Sulfur Yellow sold
1976 GL1000 RED rebuilt SOLD
1979 GL1000 parting out PM if you\'re looking for something
1975 sold
1978 sold
1981 sold
1982 sold
1982 sold
1983 A sold
1997 1500 SE SOLD
1999 1500 SE SOLD
1998 1500 SE..RIDING
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 12:16 PM
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I've had good results with aftermarket search - "leak proof fork seals". One of my tubes is a chronic leaker with OEM seals but these always stop it and hold air for several years at a time. They will eventually give up too but it's a cheap fix if you got a leaker with the stock stuff.

That's a pretty good linked description - several ways to get there though. I drain 1st - pump a couple times and then add small amount of air to blow out the rest of the oil before removing air lines. If I'm just doing seals, I usually leave the tubes in the triple tree (loosen top clamp bolt before removing caps) and just pull the slider off to get at the seal.

In case you're unclear about the snap ring - it's inside the top of the slider and will need good, well fitting snap ring pliers to get it out. Of course, bottom bolt has to be out to separate slider from tube.

Suggest you find a short piece of pipe that fits over caps. Bend it slightly in a vise to make oval and use it like a socket to put caps back in under spring pressure. Easier to push against the spring pressure while threading the caps.

Past bikes in no particular order -

65 Yamaha 80
67 Yamaha 305 Scrambler
71 & 75 HD Sportster
72 Suzuki T500
74 Suzuki GT550
77 Suzuki GS750
72 & 81 BMW R75/5, R100RT
83 Yamaha XT200

Current bike:

81 Honda GL1100
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-02-2007, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Got it! I just put a bunch of Liquid Wrench all over and then went out an shoveled out the three feet snow at the end of the driveway (thanks to the snow plow).
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 10:58 AM
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there was a long thread on this very subject of fronk fork seal removal on a 1000.... the consensus was that it is a B!T*H.... it just has to be pried out
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