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Old 02-18-2009, 10:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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It's about time for me to change the oil in the '92 GW 1500SE. I would like to start using Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 racing oil.

Is there anyone out there that is using it or has an opinion on it.
Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

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Gary
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have used it, it is a bit over $9.00 a quart at Autozone or Advance Auto , I forget where I found it.

I used to use Amsoil

At 5000 miles Amsoil is dirty and needs to be changed.

At 5000 miles Mobile One is dirty and needs to be changed.

I tried Royal Purple once, you can actually tell things do not shift as well. In all my trying this or that that is the only one I took out of the bike at 1500 miles, I was afraid to leave it in there. (that particular time it was in a Yamaha Venture)

I now use Delo 400 as I have for years before I got into trying all the synthetics.

Delo 400 is dirty and needs to be changed at 5000 miles.

Amsoil, Mobile One, Delo are all good oils, all to me appear to shift well and work well up to 5000 miles.

Delo 400 costs me 11 dollars per gallon at Wally World. Synthetic is $38.54 with tax.

It is your choice, this is just for your information.

I will use the Mobile One 4T this fall on the run to Colorado. Simply because it is supposed to be better oil. As I will have about 7000 miles on that change interval and have no wish to stop and change oil somewhere, I will use it again that particular time.

Is it any better oil? Could be, maybe, could not really prove it to me. But does make one feel better to use the best, or what is said to be the best, thing is is one really better than the other? Hard to tell in the real world.

I liked it, had not issues with it, I think it is good oil and it is an oil formulated specifically for motorcycles under very extreme conditions. So it does protect the engine and it does perform well.

So oil is oil is oil, and simply has to be your choice.

Kit
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I like Honda's 10/40 synthetic blend. It seems to me to shift smoother with less clunking. This summer when I plan on long trips, I'm gonna try Honda's full synthetic since I will go longer between oil changes. But, like Kit says, it's mostly a personal preference and largely depends upon how often you change your oil. I think if you change the oil very regularly it doesn't matter much. If you like to get full use out of your oil, the better quality oil, the better...I guess.



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Old 02-18-2009, 12:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I use Castrol synthetic blend 10W 40, gears seem to like it. I change anywhere after 3000 but before 5000
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Old 02-18-2009, 02:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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My GL1500 has about the same mileage on it as yours and I switched last year to 15/50w Semi Synthetic. The engine is a lot smoother with this oil and gear changes are the best they have ever been.

For those that missed this the first time (and I change oil and filter every 3,000 miles)

I have been in contact, for some time, with an "oil expert" who works in the motor racing business and he has given me some very good tips.

As my Wing now has 86k on the clock I asked him should I change from my exisiting oil , Semi Synthetic 10w-40 and asked him to explain what 10w-40 , etc meant.

This is his reply (edited).

[align=left] Basically you have two descriptors of an oils viscosity, the 'winter' and 'summer' number. the designation was left over from the time of monograde oils where in teh winter you got an oil for how well it flowed at cold temperatures - a 20W being more viscous than a 15W etc. For the summer weight, start-up wasn't so important and it was more about theviscosity of the oil when hot, and again, a 50 would be more viscous than a 40 etc.[/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]A lot ofpeople mistakenly think that the numbers are related - they are not!! these are arbitrary numbers used to define a viscosity range that the oils falls in according to seperate hot and coldviscosity tests. Therefore a20W-20 is not the same viscosity whencold and hot.The winter (W) number defines the dynamic viscosity of the oil when cold, and the summernumber defines the kinemataic viscosity ofthe oil at 100deg C.What's important to remember is that every oil thins down with increasing temperature, and something like a 10W-30 will thin down a lot more than a 5W-50. [/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]So basically it's as you say below. a 10W-40 and a 10W-30 have exactly the same cold temperature performance, but athigh temps, the 10W-30 is less viscous.[/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]Something with a thicker high temp performance therefore would not be a bad idea for ultimate protection, especially in warmer weather. the only real downside to using these thick oils in terms of performance is that you get a little more viscous drag from the shearing of the thicker oil in bearings etc so this saps a little power, but still, BMW M series cars, and touring cars run a 10W-60 for protection so the power loss clearly is not huge. (other than purely oil characteristics, viscosity *can* point towards the quality of an oil in some cases but that isn't really relevant info - let me know if you need to know more about base oil quality tho).[/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]It's something I do (or at least I like to, when I'm feeling a bit flush) - I use a 10W-50 in the summer and a 5W-40 in the winter. [/align] [align=left][/align] So with the conditions your bike see's (I don't really ride in the winter cold) you don't really need to worry about the W number.if you can find it,it would be good tho not essential going to a 10W-50 oil, the margin of protection that a 60 will give you over a 50 is arguably quite small (smaller than the jump from 40 to 50 anyway). the 10W-50 oils tend to be fully synthetics which should be a good thing, i don't know if there's any feedback from the owners club about the use of a full synthetic? but I'd recommend that you give it a go.

As a result I now use semi sythetic 15w-50 and my Wing really runs well on it. I definitely have noticed a difference.

Hope this helps
?

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Old 02-18-2009, 11:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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For what its worth when I take a long ride over what the oil is gonna handle, I'll usally take the Harley. Please stop booing, just because Harley parts are on every street corner if I break down and '82 wing parts might be a stretch.My point is I'll change the oil filter and top off the oil until I get home and change the oil.The factory says to change the filter at 5k miles, so if your using Amsoil ,you should be able to go longer between changes then the factory recommended oci.But the filter still needs to be changed. If the oil is darker then it is when new ,to me says it's working. But once the filter is loaded upwith dirt the oil will bypass the filter which I don't think unfiltered oil is good for the motor.,,
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I've used Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 in my bike. It did make the bike shift easier but it caused some drag in the clutch when the bike got really warmed up.iearade mode. I currently use a Motorcycle specific ( Suziki 10-40 with the MA designation ) in the bike although would like to try the Rotella 15-40 diesel oil.

A related issue was that when I wanted to put synthetic transmission fluid in my older ( 97 ) Motorhome the mechanic advised against it because we didn't know what material was used in the clutch packs. He said some don't react well with synthetic tranny fluid.

Oil is most likely the one item that will cause the most dissent amoungst us all. You can't go wrong with following the manufactures recommendation. They built it, warranted it etc., so I don't think they give bad advise.
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I would not use an automotive (car) oil. These oils are not designed to hold up to the sheer forces that are caused by the transmission (welt clutch). Find an oil that has high sheer properties. To identify a good "shear stable" oil determine the API and ACEA
tests called HTHS (High Temperature/ High Shear) and all oils carrying these specifications are tested and scored. The HT/HS test is measured in Centipoise (cP) as the Cold Crank Simulator test is. The cP value should remain high.

SAE multi-viscosity grades have a specific lower limit for the HT/HS cP value. If a multi-viscosity oil cannot achieve a cP value above that limit, it cannot be classified under that viscosity grade. According to the SAE specifications, an oil must achieve an HT/HS cP value of 3.7 or higher in order to be classified at the 15w40 viscosity grade. The thinner the oil the lower the number. I use a good heavy duty diesel oil. Diesel motor oils are considered far superior to conventional oils and provide superior sheer protection. These oils may offer an alternatve if you don’t want to spring for the high cost of Motorcycle oils.
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'll second what Kit said.

The oil is dirty at 5,000 miles. Change it out, no matter what you bought and put in the motor.

Long trip? Change the filter, top off, and ride it until you get home.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Ahnerrj,check your owners manual for type of oil to be used in your goldwing. They didn't specify any motorcycle oil just what weight to use. And theres alot of older wings still on the road today.we may have more choices today then almost 30 years ago, but the engines demands haven't changed.Shear didn't seem to matter much in the old days, but everybody worry's about it today with all the 'super oils'.I do agree that the diesel oils of today are better then the ancient oil the bikes were designed to run on.But I wouldn't waste money on synthetic oil for a older wing, when it will run fine on basic cheaper almost crude oil.,,
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