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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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I am about to replace the pads front and rear on my GL1800, I have read the manual, and I have a question.



In the manual it says


Quote:
[align=left]Push the caliper piston all the way in to allow installation[/align]
[align=left]of new brake pads by pushing the caliper[/align]
body inward.

I am assuming this means into the center of the wheel i.e on the front in the direction of the opposite caliper.



My question is how do you know how far and how hard to push?



Thanks in advance for any replies.




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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 05:48 AM
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The 1800 is my bike. The very best motorcycle ever made. I was enthralled with my first test ride on this machine. It is a great bike. A crotch rocket with storage bags.............As for oil I use the slick kind, and I like round tires, but as of late I have found square ones work best on the rear. Pirelli Eufori 195/55/16 @ 32 PSI
Kit
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 06:32 AM
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Also put a coat of moly paste on the end of the pad where it contacts the bracket and on the back where it contacts the pistons and on the pin. This will help prevent them from making noise.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 10:30 AM
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when replacing the rear,,take care and make sure the pad is fully slotted home,,as the left rear one,,if its not fully home can catch on the rivets holding the brake disc,and cause them to wear,,,check by spinning your wheel afterwards ,,and listen for anything catching

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 10:37 AM
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Dave,

Give me a bell when you are ready to do it.

Paul

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys, Gonna have a go at doing this later today,
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 09:36 AM
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On my 1500, I used the old pad along with a small c-clamp and to push the pistons back into the caliper untill they bottom out.

I had the front wheel off for tire replacement and noticed the pads were worn down quite a bit. I'm sure I could have used the same procedure as stated in the 1800 manual but a c-clamp works just as well.

Yes...remove some fluid if it has been topped off over time!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Job done, abot two hours in total it took me and a am mechanically challenged, will have to pop out in the morning and give the old girl a spin, might take the bike out aswell....
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 01:42 PM
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Kit Carson wrote:
Quote:
Wrap a good rag around the master cylinders, or just remove the brake fluid entirely and leave just enough to cover the intake of the master(that is what I do) so spilled fluid will not get on the bike. And as you push the cylinders the fluid will rise backwards.

Just push them in flush with the front body surface of the caliper body. Just flush is fine. that allows you to slip the pads in place.

You might want to look at them well, if corroded and very dirty, and lots of miles, might be time to take the calipers off and remove the pistons, clean them well and install new seals.
Why push all that dirty, worn-out old fluid back up into the master cylinder?

Just open the bleeder screw, put a hose on it and drape the hose in a container (to keep air from getting back in) then push the piston in. The nasty old fluid goes through the tube into the container. Once it's in, close the bleeder screw. The hose keeps air from getting back in in between pushing the piston and closing the bleeder. It also makes it a lot easier to push the piston in, because you aren't forcing brake fluid all the way up the brake line and through that tiny hole in the master cylinder.



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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2009, 02:55 PM
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GSMacLean wrote:
Quote:
Kit Carson wrote:
Quote:
Wrap a good rag around the master cylinders, or just remove the brake fluid entirely and leave just enough to cover the intake of the master(that is what I do) so spilled fluid will not get on the bike. And as you push the cylinders the fluid will rise backwards.

Just push them in flush with the front body surface of the caliper body. Just flush is fine. that allows you to slip the pads in place.

You might want to look at them well, if corroded and very dirty, and lots of miles, might be time to take the calipers off and remove the pistons, clean them well and install new seals.
Why push all that dirty, worn-out old fluid back up into the master cylinder?

Just open the bleeder screw, put a hose on it and drape the hose in a container (to keep air from getting back in) then push the piston in. The nasty old fluid goes through the tube into the container. Once it's in, close the bleeder screw. The hose keeps air from getting back in in between pushing the piston and closing the bleeder. It also makes it a lot easier to push the piston in, because you aren't forcing brake fluid all the way up the brake line and through that tiny hole in the master cylinder.
Please forgive me, I yield to a superior intelligence.

The 1800 is my bike. The very best motorcycle ever made. I was enthralled with my first test ride on this machine. It is a great bike. A crotch rocket with storage bags.............As for oil I use the slick kind, and I like round tires, but as of late I have found square ones work best on the rear. Pirelli Eufori 195/55/16 @ 32 PSI
Kit
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