I found the article in the Workshop area, and still have a question.
With the set-up described in the article, I assume that the key made for the gas tank will still work in the ignition. Is there a way to modify the key so it only works in the gas tank and not the ignition? I would like to be able to permanently leave the key in the gas tank, but don't want someone to be able to steal the bike.
The 'secret' is to make the gas door key too short to work in the ignition. Don't know just how much but you just use 'trial and error' to make it just slightly too short for the ignition and it will still work in the gas door?
Just buy a new lock for the gas door, they are under 40$, that way you can leave it in all the time and put a spare key on your ring just in case a joker steals it.
My new ride came with a brand new lock in the gas cap door. I just leave the key in it. Need to cut it down short though and epoxy a radio knob on it. Too long now, it might get mangled up.
Just buy a new lock for the gas door, they are under 40$, that way you can leave it in all the time and put a spare key on your ring just in case a joker steals it.
Why would you want to spend $40 for a new lock when the 'cut-off key' will lock the gas door and will not work in the ignition?The regular ignition key will also lock and unlock everything in case someone takes the gas door key? I may get 'bit' some day but I also keep a 'mouse gun' (Kel-Tec P3AT) in the right side fairing pocket. It is locked with the same key and I have never had anyone bother it either?
MANY of you folks must have ' The Luck o' The Irish!
Granted, I've hadWing 9 1/2 yrs.In that time,had 2 new fuel door locks beyond original &onepocketcover lock beyondoriginal. Trunk is only other lockignition key still opens. If you can get TWO keyed-alike locksets from a Honda dealer, consider yourself very fortunate, because I've tried many local dealers. NONE of them was willing to go thru their locksets, to find a keyed-alike pair for me!
It seems[for me, anyway]the little white plasticcover in each key slotwore out. Once water, dirt gotinsidecylinder, lock was done for, evenw/ regular use of lock lube. TTFN.....papasmurf
Why would you want to spend $40 for a new lock when the 'cut-off key' will lock the gas door and will not work in the ignition?The regular ignition key will also lock and unlock everything in case someone takes the gas door key? I may get 'bit' some day but I also keep a 'mouse gun' (Kel-Tec P3AT) in the right side fairing pocket. It is locked with the same key and I have never had anyone bother it either?
If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?
Why would you want to spend $40 for a new lock when the 'cut-off key' will lock the gas door and will not work in the ignition?The regular ignition key will also lock and unlock everything in case someone takes the gas door key? I may get 'bit' some day but I also keep a 'mouse gun' (Kel-Tec P3AT) in the right side fairing pocket. It is locked with the same key and I have never had anyone bother it either?
If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?
Beats the devil out of me but that is the case? I replaced my radio knobs with chrome ones and used one of the original knobs for the head of my gas door key. I put a key that worked all four locks in thegas door lock and marked where I needed to cut it off to make the radio knob extend just a little bit when I JB Welded the key in it. You just want maybe 1/8" to 1/16" of clearance between the bottom of the knob and the top of the lock. For whatever reason when you do that the key will not extend far enough into the ignition switch to operate it? I am not sure about the trunk lock but I will check today. It does however operate the gas door and the right hand pocket lock?
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If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?
After fully seating thekey in your ignition cylinder, there is an additiona requirement that thekeyanc cylinderbe pushed-in about 1/8"toturnpast the off position (in and clockwise to get to "On").
The fuel door (and other locks) do not require that the key be pressed any deeper than the initial insertion point. That ~1/8"of push "IN" at the ignition cylinderis the difference
By gluing a knob to the "rear-end" of a stub-cut key, the knob will prevent the hey-stub from pressing-down into the ignition so the ignition won't turn to enable the "run"...
That said - If you make this "stub-key knob" you can still brake the knob off and start your bike with the key-stub and a set of pliers...
It all comes down to cuting the back of the key as short as possible -- and remembering that there's a risk whenever the "stub-key knob" could fall into some other hands.
Thanks racingbanker and satan (I never thought I would need to thank satan...), now I just have to find someone who can make a copy of my key so I have one to cut up.
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If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?
After fully seating thekey in your ignition cylinder, there is an additiona requirement that thekeyanc cylinderbe pushed-in about 1/8"toturnpast the off position (in and clockwise to get to "On").
The fuel door (and other locks) do not require that the key be pressed any deeper than the initial insertion point. That ~1/8"of push "IN" at the ignition cylinderis the difference
By gluing a knob to the "rear-end" of a stub-cut key, the knob will prevent the hey-stub from pressing-down into the ignition so the ignition won't turn to enable the "run"...
That said - If you make this "stub-key knob" you can still brake the knob off and start your bike with the key-stub and a set of pliers...
It all comes down to cuting the back of the key as short as possible -- and remembering that there's a risk whenever the "stub-key knob" could fall into some other hands.
Very good point but then we would know it was YOU, or someone who read your post!:shock:I would think that most people would possibly try it and if it didn't work try something else...maybe not?
now I just have to find someone who can make a copy of my key so I have one to cut up.
If you want one to cut up, the blank for some honda cars will work.
The Ace hardware store makes my keys for me for almost nothing.
If you want pretty keys, order the blank online, and they will cut it for you.
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