Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

1500 Gas Lid Key

1K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Jsalpha2 
#1 ·
imported post

I've seen bikes with a key that has a knob on top that lives permanently in the gas lid lock, and only works that lock.

Does anyone know where to find those?

Thanks,

Rick
 
#5 ·
imported post

Thanks for the info guys.

I found the article in the Workshop area, and still have a question.

With the set-up described in the article, I assume that the key made for the gas tank will still work in the ignition. Is there a way to modify the key so it only works in the gas tank and not the ignition? I would like to be able to permanently leave the key in the gas tank, but don't want someone to be able to steal the bike.

Thanks,

Rick
 
#8 ·
imported post

You can also exchange the gas door lock with a trusted friend. :ssshh: Perhaps an out of state buddy.:cheesygrin:
 
#10 ·
imported post

1500 winger wrote:
Just buy a new lock for the gas door, they are under 40$, that way you can leave it in all the time and put a spare key on your ring just in case a joker steals it.

:action:
Why would you want to spend $40 for a new lock when the 'cut-off key' will lock the gas door and will not work in the ignition?The regular ignition key will also lock and unlock everything in case someone takes the gas door key? I may get 'bit' some day but I also keep a 'mouse gun' (Kel-Tec P3AT) in the right side fairing pocket. It is locked with the same key and I have never had anyone bother it either?
 
#11 ·
imported post

MANY of you folks must have ' The Luck o' The Irish!
Granted, I've hadWing 9 1/2 yrs.In that time,had 2 new fuel door locks beyond original &onepocketcover lock beyondoriginal. Trunk is only other lockignition key still opens. If you can get TWO keyed-alike locksets from a Honda dealer, consider yourself very fortunate, because I've tried many local dealers. NONE of them was willing to go thru their locksets, to find a keyed-alike pair for me!
It seems[for me, anyway]the little white plasticcover in each key slotwore out. Once water, dirt gotinsidecylinder, lock was done for, evenw/ regular use of lock lube. TTFN.....papasmurf
 
#12 ·
imported post

racingbanker16 wrote
Why would you want to spend $40 for a new lock when the 'cut-off key' will lock the gas door and will not work in the ignition?The regular ignition key will also lock and unlock everything in case someone takes the gas door key? I may get 'bit' some day but I also keep a 'mouse gun' (Kel-Tec P3AT) in the right side fairing pocket. It is locked with the same key and I have never had anyone bother it either?
This is what I am trying to get explained.

If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?
 
#13 ·
imported post

rzz189 wrote:
racingbanker16 wrote
Why would you want to spend $40 for a new lock when the 'cut-off key' will lock the gas door and will not work in the ignition?The regular ignition key will also lock and unlock everything in case someone takes the gas door key? I may get 'bit' some day but I also keep a 'mouse gun' (Kel-Tec P3AT) in the right side fairing pocket. It is locked with the same key and I have never had anyone bother it either?
This is what I am trying to get explained.

If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?

Beats the devil out of me but that is the case? I replaced my radio knobs with chrome ones and used one of the original knobs for the head of my gas door key. I put a key that worked all four locks in thegas door lock and marked where I needed to cut it off to make the radio knob extend just a little bit when I JB Welded the key in it. You just want maybe 1/8" to 1/16" of clearance between the bottom of the knob and the top of the lock. For whatever reason when you do that the key will not extend far enough into the ignition switch to operate it? I am not sure about the trunk lock but I will check today. It does however operate the gas door and the right hand pocket lock?
 
#14 ·
imported post

rzz189 wrote:
...
If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?

The keys are the same -- yes.

After fully seating thekey in your ignition cylinder, there is an additiona requirement that thekeyanc cylinderbe pushed-in about 1/8"toturnpast the off position (in and clockwise to get to "On").

The fuel door (and other locks) do not require that the key be pressed any deeper than the initial insertion point. That ~1/8"of push "IN" at the ignition cylinderis the difference

By gluing a knob to the "rear-end" of a stub-cut key, the knob will prevent the hey-stub from pressing-down into the ignition so the ignition won't turn to enable the "run"...

That said - If you make this "stub-key knob" you can still brake the knob off and start your bike with the key-stub and a set of pliers...



It all comes down to cuting the back of the key as short as possible -- and remembering that there's a risk whenever the "stub-key knob" could fall into some other hands.
 
#15 ·
imported post

Thanks racingbanker and satan (I never thought I would need to thank satan...), now I just have to find someone who can make a copy of my key so I have one to cut up.

Thanks,

Rick
 
#16 ·
imported post

satan wrote:
rzz189 wrote:
...
If you take a regular ol' spare key you have lying around that works in any of the locks on your bike and cut it off, how is it that it will now only work in the gas door and not the ignition?
The keys are the same -- yes.

After fully seating thekey in your ignition cylinder, there is an additiona requirement that thekeyanc cylinderbe pushed-in about 1/8"toturnpast the off position (in and clockwise to get to "On").

The fuel door (and other locks) do not require that the key be pressed any deeper than the initial insertion point. That ~1/8"of push "IN" at the ignition cylinderis the difference

By gluing a knob to the "rear-end" of a stub-cut key, the knob will prevent the hey-stub from pressing-down into the ignition so the ignition won't turn to enable the "run"...

That said - If you make this "stub-key knob" you can still brake the knob off and start your bike with the key-stub and a set of pliers...



It all comes down to cuting the back of the key as short as possible -- and remembering that there's a risk whenever the "stub-key knob" could fall into some other hands.
Very good point but then we would know it was YOU, or someone who read your post!:shock:I would think that most people would possibly try it and if it didn't work try something else...maybe not?
 
#17 ·
imported post

now I just have to find someone who can make a copy of my key so I have one to cut up.

If you want one to cut up, the blank for some honda cars will work.
The Ace hardware store makes my keys for me for almost nothing.
If you want pretty keys, order the blank online, and they will cut it for you.

Here

Here
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top