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Old 08-21-2010, 01:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I have searched using every combination of the words "GL1500 clutch basket locknut removal tool" I can think of but cannot find the thread that had the part # from Motion Pro for a castle socket that would do the trick. HELP!!!

I can't remember if the socket would work on a GL1500, most of the threads dealing with clutch removal seem to be for the 1100.



Tranny went bad on my 95SE and I found a short block with only 4000 miles on it. I'm about to transfer the clutch over from the old block and thought one of my friends here in town had the tool I needed. He can't remember who he loaned it to, but he hasn't seen it since. One of the threads said they used a 1 1/4 inch socket, a breaker bar and a short piece of a 2 X 4 that they hit the breaker bar with while their wife held the rear wheel. Anyone else had any luck with a 1 1/4 inch socket? Is it a close enough fit so I can torque it properly after I get it transfered?




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Old 08-21-2010, 06:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi

Not sure which tool you are looking for, but here are the pages from the manual showing the clutch removal tools and their part numbers from Honda
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Old 08-21-2010, 06:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 08-21-2010, 06:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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image 3
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm looking for something that will do the job of the 07JMA wrench. I didn't even know about the 07JMB Clutch Holder. I'm using the Honda Service Manual and must have missed the note about the Clutch holder tool.



Are those tools the only way get the basket off and reinstalled?
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I am pretty sure the 07JMA can be replaced by a 46mm 12 point socket and breaker bar. My Clymer manual says use that socket or equivalent. The 07JMB is the clutch basket holder. You don't need the clutch basket holder. Just put the breaker bar on the nut, use it to turn the engine so the breaker bar is as high as it will go, have someone else press the rear brake (in gear of course), and smack the end of the breaker bar with a two by four.

When you put it back together, you can get the torque specs necessary by doing the reverse (without the two by four smack).

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Old 08-22-2010, 11:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'll check out that 46 mm 12 point, it should cost quite a bit less than the eighty something dollars Honda wants for their wrench. The engine is out of the bike, so I should be able to find someway to hold either the engine or basket in place when I break the nut loose. I'll post back in a few days and let you know how it works out.

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Old 08-22-2010, 12:36 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh it's bigger than that.

I ended up making a special tool.

I bought a set of extremely large and I mean big combination wrenches from Harbor-Freight and used my chop sawon the 1-7/8 12 pt. Then, I grind-ed and welded it to a 1-1/4 socket.

Still much cheaper this way. Used only once, and I have a complete set of wrenches that have never been used. Maybe on a blue moon.

Too bad we could not barrow from Autozone - I already checked.





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Old 08-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When you say it's bigger than that, are you talking depth of the socket? I assume I need a deep well socket, either a 46mm or 1 13/16 deep well. If I buy one at Sears, it's only about $20 cheaper than the one from Honda . So I'm still looking.

Thanks
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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SUCCESS!!



Borrowed a 1 13/16 12pt. socket, used an air driven impact wrench, without holding the basket with any thing and the nut came right off. Basket is installed on the new engine!
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