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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Following the wiring, I think the cylindrical thing on the end of the stick is the sender for the low fuel warning light. Which, on this unit is no longer doing it's job.

Is there a resistor inside that unit that reacts when dry? Is that whole thing a sensor? Could it be plugged with gunk so the inside sensor never detects dry conditions?

And most importantly...can it be fixed?




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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 04:40 PM
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Dennis,

Take a look at this post... http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...ght=thermister

Post #17 is the most relevant to your question. Looks like it is a thermister that is what causes the Low Fuel light to come on.



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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 04:45 PM
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Yep !

The OEM p/n the 1200 and 1500 low fuel sensor is 37810-MN5-008.

you can use the same thermistor in the GL1200 and the GL1500. The guys at www.newark.com carries a replacement as a NTC THERMISTOR, p/n 20F735 TYPE RL2004-582-97-T10 for something near $3 USD
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 04:54 PM
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Dennis, here is some more information about your trouble. From the GL1200 service manual.

LOW FUEL WARNING LIGHT
Place the motorcycle on its center stand.
Ground the white/Blue wire terminal of the fuel level sensor coupler to the ground.
Check that the low fuel warning light comes on within 30 seconds after the ignition switch has been
turned ON.
NOTE:
The light will not come on immediately after the ignition switch is turned ON. If the light does not come on within 30 seconds, check for a blown fuse or bulb, loose connector or open circuit in the wire harness.
Replace the sensor if the above procedure does not indicate that anything is wrong. Check that the low fuel warning light will not light when the ignition switch is turned ON with disconnected the coupler from the fuel level sensor. If the warning light comes on, check for a short circuit in the wire harness or coupler.
Replace the sensor if nothing wrong is indicated.





Larry

Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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I thought I posted a pic of this. I thought senility would bring peace of mind...

Anyway, Satan, that Newark site didn't show a pic of their product. Is it the goody on the end of the stick in this pic?


Attached Images
File Type: jpg sender.jpg (86.4 KB, 280 views)

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 09:23 PM
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yea......... thats it Dennis. I always thought there was a plunger that goes up and down in there. Don't go by me though......... lord knows I've been wrong before.

Don't want a deal with alot of flibiddy-flab or mumbo-jumbo...........

2003 GL1800 Illusion Blue
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 11:16 PM
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Hey Dennis, go read this link. Lots of good stuff about how the Low Fuel sensor works. Looks like the V65 Magna, St1100 and the Goldwings all work in a similiar manner.



http://www.stocrallies.com/st-riders...pic=976.0;wap2



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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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So what actually is happening? Does that thing sense liquid?

Could it be plugged up? Do I replace the whole canister or something inside it?

I resent Ben Franklin and his damn kite.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 09:29 AM
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http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/90971.html is a pretty good thread and has links and "how to" and such -- the "net efect is to replace a small componant that's inside that can...



The "can" actually holds a little thermistor (looks like a resistor or a small capacitor)...

The "How it works" part is pretty easy:



The "NTC" in the part number is for Negative Temperature Coefficient -- which identifies that the resistance across the thermistor leads decreases as temperature increases... This "thermistor" is really only measuring temperature. (same thing the air intake temp sensor and the Coolant Temp sensors are doing)...



The difference here is that the way the thing is "hooked-up" -- it's set tomonitor it's own temperature. Seems odd, but stay with me for just a bit more...



There's a small voltage coming into that thermistor (in the can) from that one wire; the circuit is one this yellowed wire into one thermistor lead, and the other thermistor lead is grounded to the can. The voltage coming into that lead actually runs through the dash's low-fuellamp (something to rememebr if you go with LEDs.)



So ... this thermistor acts as a resistor that's value (resistance) gets lower as it gets hotter. The small current passing through the dassh-bulb and thermistor causes the thermistor to heat slightly at all times (yeah, great I know I wanted a heater in my fuel) -- The "heat" (realy, a small amount) is sucked-away into the fuel which keeps the thermistor cooled (and at a high resistance -- about 1000-ohms)... the 1000 ohmskeeps the current low enough to not "light" thelow-fuel dash-lamp.





When the fuel level drops-off, the thermistor is no longer bathed in the fuel... The small amount of current is still passing through the thermistor causing it to heat, but now the fuel is NOT drawing heat off of the device ... sothe therrmistorgets hotter. As the thermistor gets hotter its resistance decreases allowing more and more current to flow through the "Low Fuel"dash-lamp -- eventually, the current flow will increase to a point where the bulb isbright enough for you to see it



Kinda sloppy writing, sorry 'bout that - I can offer additional input or whatever, if needed ...



Couple of interesting things on these sensors:


* Since the sensor does get pretty warm (ever touch a lighted dash-bulb -- about that hot), it's best to fill your tank after letting the thermistor cool a while (Shut the ignition off and give it a minute if the low-fuel lamp was on) -- filling while the thermistor is hot can cause a serious temperature shock to the thermistor, which can cause it to fail completely !



* Note on LEDs... LEDs require less current to light - so having a 1000-ohm (cool=fuel) thermistor in the tank may not be enough to keep the LED dark -- I'd recommend NOT changing the low-fuel lamp to LED without some experimentation to ensure that the lamp's function is not impaired.





That thread I listed up-top has a link to Moser electronics in one of my posts there... Their data sheet may have a picture of the part.



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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Satan, that was excellent. An explanation of an electric widgit that I can understand. That's so rare.

Thank you, sir.

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