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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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The rear brake pedal on my 1996 GL1500I goes down about 2-3 inches before the brake starts working, but the brake does work quite well. Can anyone explain to me how to adjust the brake pedal or possibly direct me to a video, or pictures, showing me step by step how to do it myself?

Thanks in advance for your assistance...

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 09:58 PM
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I don't think there is an adjustment. Bleed the brakes for a firmer feel.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 11:58 PM
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On the 1500, like most bikes, the rear pedal height is adjustable via the clevis rod hooking the brake pedal to the rear MC. The manual calls for a resting pedal height of .4 inches above the top of the foot peg. If yours is about .5 inch above the foot peg then there is no other adjustment. Like Bike... and Dennis said.. Bleed the brakes keeping in mind that the rear is linked to the left front (I think) so you start your bleeding on the left front then move to the rear.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 04:46 PM
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When was the fluid last changed? You'd be very surprised how much difference fresh fluid will make, it's very easy to do, costs very little and makes a huge difference to the feel & performance of the brakes.



One other easy fix I didwas toslightly raise the position of the foot brake making it feel much more comfortable. The original rubber pads were missing from the foot-brake pedal so I fitted new ones. I made them from a thick rubber sole from an old shoe. The rubber is about 15mm thick and sits proud of the pedal, the rubber is also very grippy and this makes the pedal feel very secure under foot, with so slippage whatsoever.(Fit the rubber so that the outter sole faces up, so that your foot is pressing onto the side of the rubber that was intended to grip the ground).I definately found the extra 10mm of height (over the OEM rubber pads) to be a big improvement! By the way, I secured the rubber pads to the pedal using two part resin adhesive.



Regards



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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 05:29 PM
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I agree this has come up before you need to bleed your brakes but something you should also do is when you are done with the front put something heavy on the pedal to hold it all the way down. This means you are using one of the small bleeder bottles so no air can get back in. Leave it that way overnight 1500's are notorious for getting air bubbles in the lines and this usually gets them out. It worked for me when I had a simular problem ( I used a sledge hammer) it was just the right weight and size to do the job.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 07:12 PM
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Jim_C wrote:
Quote:
When was the fluid last changed? You'd be very surprised how much difference fresh fluid will make, it's very easy to do, costs very little and makes a huge difference to the feel & performance of the brakes.



One other easy fix I didwas toslightly raise the position of the foot brake making it feel much more comfortable. The original rubber pads were missing from the foot-brake pedal so I fitted new ones. I made them from a thick rubber sole from an old shoe. The rubber is about 15mm thick and sits proud of the pedal, the rubber is also very grippy and this makes the pedal feel very secure under foot, with so slippage whatsoever. (Fit the rubber so that the outter sole faces up, so that your foot is pressing onto the side of the rubber that was intended to grip the ground).I definately found the extra 10mm of height (over the OEM rubber pads) to be a big improvement! By the way, I secured the rubber pads to the pedal using two part resin adhesive.



Regards



Jim


Jim ... the rubber pad(s) on the foot pedal are not OEM. Honda brake pedal is just a metal piece, with a textured cross hatching milled into it. I think what you are describingis the ISO Brake Pedal Pads.



Bleeding your brakes(start with the front left caliper as the 1500 has a 'linked' braking system) will firm up the pedal, effectively 'raising' the pedal height. Should be bled every two years, same as the front brakes. I like to bleed my clutch system every year.

Installing a set of Speed Bleeders makes for a quick, easy job, even for one person bleeding the brakes/clutchsystems.

Cover all areas around/below the Brake/Clutch master cylinders with rags, as Brake Fluid does not get along with paint/plastic, so don't let any drip on them!Use DOT 4 brake fluid for both brake and clutch systems.



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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 02:43 AM
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Hi Dusty, you're right, the ISO pedal is on my bike. It was there when I got it and just assumed it was OEM. There you go, you learn something new every day!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 07:12 AM
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Jim_C wrote:
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Hi Dusty, you're right, the ISO pedal is on my bike. It was there when I got it and just assumed it was OEM. There you go, you learn something new every day!
I have looked at those ISO Brake Pedal pads quite a few times, liking the look of them, but inwardly knew that your boot would 'catch' on the edge of the rubber inserts and eventually one(or more) would become dislodged and you'd be forced into buying replacement pieces. Your solution is simple and one I never thought of. As you said .... you learn something new every day!

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-10-2011, 07:39 AM
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Just another thought that might help is to take your brake pedal off it's shaft & raise it a notch or two

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