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Old 08-24-2011, 03:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Info for 1985 Honda Aspencade, 29,000 original miles.



Does the goldwing motor and tranny share the same oil like a V65 Sabre does?



I just got this bike and want to change the fluids, I wouldnt mind going to a synthetic oil but this bike has 29K miles and is that a problem going to syn this late in the game?



Has anyone put radial tires on there wing? If so what brand and size?



See on the V65 Sabre I had shops tell you not to go radial, well, thanks to a few rebels out there some did, after miles and miles of riding the proof is that the radial tire gave them alot more traction, alot more control, better ride and longivity of the tires were over doubled in most cases. But the downside is that you had to go down just a hair in size to get the radials on the Sabre.



Have had a few Honda's in my lifetime but never a Goldwing. I would appreciate any cons that I need to keep an eye open for on these bikes. Are the generators prone to going out or just that they do not produce enough juice to run aftermarket items?



I have downloaded a webpage where a guy converted his to an external alternator and am wondering if the work is worth the outcome.



Also what is the preferred sparkplug for GL?



As alwasy I do appreciate feedback.
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes the trans and motor share the same oil,Also I have done an external alt conversion and its the only way to go,you will never worry about having enough voltage again.Moon
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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BTW,oil with friction reducer in it tends to be hard on 1200 cluthes,I happen to use Delo 400 in mine(shifts smoother,motor runs quieter).Good luck,Moon
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi Moonhead,

In my Sabre I used rotella. Several people on the sabre forums had used it and over time they noticed no problems with clutch and said it cleaned better than some of the other oils. Is the Delo similiar to the Rotella?
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes they are very similar and I would recommend either one as a good choice.There have been several discussions on the subject and delo or rotella are both recomended.Moon
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Old 08-24-2011, 04:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The motor and trans share the same oil as Moonhead stated. You can go to a synthetic anytime you want although some say it makes the shifting clunkier.

It sounds like you need to set down and start reading trough some of the responses in the tech forum. There is a lot of information on tires, oil, and what to use to clean the bike. Opinions are all over the place One thing fairly consistent is the recommendation for Iridium spark plugs.

Things to watch for on 1200's - the 3 yellow stator wires, the dog bone fuse, and make sure the drive flange is lubed with moly 60. Lots of info concerning these things already in the forum.

The poor boy conversion (external alternator) is nice if you are considering running extra electrical items (or you don't want to pull the motor to replace a stator). If you want to run extra fog/driving lights or heated clothing you may consider the poor boy. If not, check your yellow wires, ad a volt meter and ride.
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Old 08-24-2011, 04:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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bias tires are required for the 1200, the radials start with the 1800 goldwings. popular choices seem to be the avon venom x or the dunlop elite 3.

whatever tire you choose check the manufacturers web site, for minimum pressures.

good luck with you new ride, the 1200 is a nice bike.
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I used Mobile 1 synthetic and found the transmission to be much quieter but noticed that I began to develop small leaks through several gaskets. Although the oil chemists say this should not be an issue I have since switched back to Rotella and change it twice a season. Do not use heavy oil like 20w-50, for although it will run quiet, you most likely will have starter clutch issues causing the starter motor to free wheel a few times before it engages, and some have found that it will be difficult to disengage the clutch enough to shift out of neutral. Do not use an oul with friction modifiers (shown on the label) or you might have slipping clutch issues. Whatever oil you use, change it frequently and regularly since it has a huge job to do with the engine, transmission and clutch to lubricate and cool.
+1 on the irridium plugs, NGK.
+1 on the external alternator, yours WILL fail eventually. Some have even had replacement stators fail, plus it is nice to have more amperage available than you can use.
Tires are subjuct to opinion, but many folks swear by the Dunlop Elite 3. Very good on tar snakes and metal grid bridges. The odd size of the 1200 rear tire makes the options somewhat limited with all but a few manufacturers having dropped that size. The best remain.

The 1200 has only a few faults, one of them being a somewhat noisy transmission but it is still a class act.
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Old 08-24-2011, 07:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Welcome KC ., there are many opinions about oil , oil is now so well engineered that you can use any of your choise at the proper grade recommended for your bike.
I ditto jwitmore44 , you have a 26 year old bike and the best advise i can offer is to access a manual and tech. info. provided here to get to know your bike . I keep my manual in the bathroom for daily " study ".
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Just as an fyi, most oil has friction modifiers. The ones you want to avoid state energy conserving on the API label.



Energy conserving oils may have (most likely have) ingredients that cause the clutch to slip. Besides, their weight isn't usually recommended for bike.
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