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Old 08-29-2011, 10:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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(1985 aspencade gl1200A)

I'm posting a picture showing some melted wiring-- I haven't figured out yet what this wiring is for. I found it because I was trying to track down why my radiator fan isn't working, so I'm hoping that this melted wiring is part of that system.

The wiring is to the left of the battery, and goes down into a part of the engine that I can't identify. (The black arrow points to the unknown part, and the green arrow points to where the wires actually go into the part.)

Following the other end of the wiring, I see some other wires that also look like they need to be replaced underneath the false tank (the housing has melted off of one, so there is exposed wiring, and some of the sheathing on others is bubbled a bit).

There is a fair amount of corrosion on the part that actually melted the covering, so I'm hoping that this is the source of all of my other problems. So here are my questions:
1) what is the part that the black arrow is pointing to?
2) what are these wires for that are no longer connected?
3) Since I'm going to have to cut the wires back and solder in some replacement (unless there's a better way?), how can I ensure that I'm connecting the right wires from the bottom to the correct wires from the top?

<defensive tone> the bike is relatively new to me, so although I've not been shy about riding it in the rain it doesn't get left out in the rain-- I think this corrosion was inherited.
</defensive tone>

Thanks!

Edited: s/big/bike/
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Aha, I have figured out that this is the stator, but am still researching the best way to fix this wiring issue. I do have the Haynes manual for this bike, and am still super eager for any pointers.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Top arrow stator housing,bottom arrow stator wiring going into engine if its melted it shot and wouldnt take a chance soldering wires to numbs if there any left..Very common issue with these bikes Ive done two replacements..
Wire placement doesnt matter if you want to give it a shot three yellows to yellows..Good luck Follow the top set up and get rid of the plug and solder those together as well if thats what your going to try first...
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Top arrow stator housing,bottom arrow stator wiring going into engine if its melted it s shot,most likely though you may get lucky...I wouldnt take a chance soldering wires to numbs if there any left..Very common issue with these bikes Ive done two replacements..
Wire placement doesnt matter if you want to give it a shot three yellows to yellows..Good luck FAlso follow the top set up and get rid of the plug and solder those together as well if thats what your going to try first...
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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First thing I would do , assuming you have enough wire coming out of the motor, is do the stator test.It's a good possibility with the wire and connector melted that it shorted the stator. If the stator tests ok then you can rewire the three stator wires. The three wires should be yellow, they go from the stator to the regulator rectifier under the false tank. There are two connectors that usually melt, you found the one by the battery, the other is up by the R/R.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks very much for the fast response. I just got back from Reilly's, and will try the stator test before I go ahead and reconnect these wires. (I guess that means I have a reprieve for the night-- need to let the battery charge up.)

I _think_ there's enough wiring coming from the stator to attach new wire to, although I haven't stripped it back to inspect it yet.

For posterity's sake, here is the stator test that I think jwhitmore44 is referring to: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/GL1200Statortest.htm
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Old 08-30-2011, 12:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That test'll do ya! It's very simular to the test I normaly post... My advise is after you test the stator go ahead and run 3 new 12ga yellowwires from the stator to the regulator, soldering the connections and use heat shrink insulation on the soldered joint's...
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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all info here is corrct and we all hope the stator is ok, now for the next problem,the fan not comming on, what makes you think its not comming on? did it get hot? they dont make alot of noise, but this will not likely stop the fan from comming on unless the battery goes dead
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Don't try to solve any other electric problems until the stator wires are fixed. The stator and battery are the heart and lungs-so to speak-of the electrical system. If stator isnt charging and battery drains many electrical items will become inop as voltage drops. It is very possible that your cooling fan will function noramlly once the stator repair is made and charging.
The basic idea here is that 3 wires exit the stator rear oil seal until they reach that connector you have pictured. From there they run into the main harness and emerge up under the false gas tank at voltage regulator. They enter regulator through two connectors. The best repair as others have mentioned is to run 3 new wires from stator to regulator and straight solder them omitting the connectors.
Perform stator test first after cutting out damaged plug then perform wire repair. After charging issue is solved charge battery fully and retest cooling fan.
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Old 08-30-2011, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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@sctrucker: The bike started running hot, and after verifying that I did have enough coolant (and oil, too), I realized that I wasn't hearing the fan anymore when I first turned the ignition key to 'on'.

Since the haynes manual specifically agrees with wingsam41 (I think it says to make sure the battery is charged fully as one of the fan troubleshooting steps), I'm hopeful that this is the cause.

General followup question: I don't recall seeing anything in the manual about replacing the wires to the stator-- is this doable without taking the stator out (which from what I understand also means taking the engine out)?
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