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Old 03-15-2013, 02:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default GL1200 Front Fork Seal Kit

Howdy ALL! I'm slowly bringing my virtually new 1985 Aspencade back to life after being stored for extended periods. Unclogged the fuel system and carbs, bled the rear brakes, finishing up bleeding the clutch.

Now, I'm about to tackle leaking front fork seals. Not sure the extent to which a rebuild is needed, but the leaking is sufficient that it has soaked the left front rotor and caliper; probably ruined the brake pads.

Anyway, I'd appreciate any wisdom regarding this job and, especially the best source for whatever I'm going to need. Are there COMPLETE kits? At this point I don't know WHAT I need. I DO have a Clymer manual which has served me well.

Thanks.

Ed
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the seals are available. A quick search revealed that Bike Bandit has what you need...
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...51705#sch23245

I have no doubts that there are MANY other sources as well...

That said, you will want to also check the "slider bushings/guides". These are the wear-surface bushings inside the forks that the tube rides agains, and there is a good chance yours may be worn. IF they are and you do not replace them, you should expect any new seals to fail and begin leaking in fairly short order...

Hope this helps...
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you only need the oil and dust seals.

here is what you need

Honda Part Number: 51490-MN8-305 - SEAL SET, FR. FORK

you need to order two of those.

it is number 39 here http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ORK/parts.html

i've bought from them and have a great service
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William_86 View Post
you only need the oil and dust seals.

here is what you need

Honda Part Number: 51490-MN8-305 - SEAL SET, FR. FORK

you need to order two of those.

it is number 39 here http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ORK/parts.html

i've bought from them and have a great service
What about bushings/sliders as ob1jeeper mentioned. I'll probably get those anyway. What else MIGHT I need? I only want to do this job once.

Are you really in Tampico, Mexico?
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Bump. Aside from a seal kit and bushings/guides, is there anything else I might need? This bike only has 19,000 original miles and is only guilty of long-term storage on multiple occasions. Always garaged.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just for grins and giggles, I'd change the fork oil out. You can use ATF to replace it.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William_86 View Post
you only need the oil and dust seals.

here is what you need

Honda Part Number: 51490-MN8-305 - SEAL SET, FR. FORK

you need to order two of those.

it is number 39 here http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ORK/parts.html

i've bought from them and have a great service
I'm confused. Partzilla shows two #39s with different part numbers. Why? How do I know which is which?
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Follow-up Questions

I'm bringing this back to the top to ask a couple of questions...

I received my seal kit and bushings from Bike Bandit. I'm starting the process of removing the forks. As a reminder, my bike is a 1985 Aspencade.

My Clymer manual indicates that I need to remove the seat and Top Cover. I interpret that the Top Cover is the phony gas tank, and maybe the top side compartments.

As I look at the forks from the top, I don't see WHY I would have to remove the Top Cover. What am I missing?

Also, it appears that with the Aspencade I relieve fork air pressure using the compressor buttons and otherwise remove the forks in one piece AND THEN drain the fluid. Am I following this correctly?

Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Bump.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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No need to remove the top shelter. The hardest part is there's very little clearance to get at the bottem bracket allen bolts with 6mm heads. I use a 'shorty' socket or you can cut off a regular L shaped allen key. It's not a bad idea to break the top fork bolts loose before you loosen the triple clamps. I remove the forks separately as an ass'y before I do any other work to them.
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