I know I will take some heat for this one, but if it helps just one person, so be it.
First off, yes, Goldwings are not "made" to be tied to a trailer, but that does not mean that it CAN'T be done, and done in the safest way possible. I have been trailering cars, trucks, and motorcycles for almost 30 years without problems or damage.
The basics of motorcycle tie down: With a sturdy chock (or the like), tie front of the bike by pulling the forks almost all the way compressed with straps to the lower triple clamp. You might have to remove some trim/tupperware to do this as I do with my 1500. That's it for the front. For the rear, strap the wheel/tire down securely to the trailer, that's it. If you tie to any 'sprung parts' you take the chance of shock loading and damage. NEVER tie down with the kick/side stand down. Proper tongue weight is also critical for towing safety. Once loaded on the trailer, the tongue should be between 10% and 15% of the TOTAL GROSS WEIGHT OF THE TRAILER.
The following is edited from a few of my posts over the years and new info I have added.
The front suspension (forks) is almost fully compressed by straps to the lower triple clamp and around the forks with the front wheel being kept from turning in a sturdy chock; this stabilizes and locates almost the entire bike. With the front done this way there is VERY little chance of a bump in the road causing the forks to compress any further to cause shock loading of the straps during the 'rebound'; also note that the front of the bike will be more on the tongue of the trailer and have a softer ride. If you tie the rear of the bike down by the "frame" (any sprung place) and you hit a bump in the road you will induce a shock load (rebound) on the straps and the frame (or seat, or crash bars, or...) will take this loading and is subject to failure because they are NOT designed for that type of loading. Note that this can bend or break your frame or other parts if you don't ALMOST FULLY 'LOAD' THE REAR SUSPENSION like the front!! Remember that there is more weight of the bike on the rear suspension and it will take LOTS of effort to pull it down as far as would be needed to keep shock loads from occurring. If you tie the rear of the bike DOWN securely by the rear wheel/tire, the weight of the bike (sprung weight) will ride on the rear suspension and there will be no shock loads to damage anything. Remember, the rear wheel and tire assy. has been designed to carry the weight of the bike, plus rider / passenger and hit normal sized bumps and holes in the road without damage, so it can take it. Also, if the bike has the side stand or center stand down while being trailered, a bump in the road can bend or fracture your frame.
The lower triple clamp is SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than the upper or the handlebars, and is a much better place to use. It also keeps the straps shorter and because of that they have less room to stretch. The only reason to use the upper clamp or handlebar at the clamp for ligher bikes without fairings or windshields is for ease of strapping, but its not better; EVER.
I purchased and installed a wheel chock from Harbor Freight in my enclosed trailer:
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97841.html
I like this chock because I can ride into the trailer, put the front tire in, and step off the bike and it holds the bike; no need to for the kick/side stand or center stand. This chock had the typical issues that are mentioned in the reviews, and I took care of most of them, as well as did some of my own upgrades. The big problem was getting the bike back out of the chock, and the bike's reverse would just barely do it. Not wanting to over stress the reverse, I decided to solve the problem; see the photos without the bike. I can now pull the 1500 out of the chock with only ME power! I can provide more details if people want, but sorry, I will not build them for people. The best part is I made it from scrap I had; yea, it could look better....
Not trusting the whimpy tie downs with the Harbor Frieght chock (10MM threads), I added tie down points are attached to sections of angle I welded to the frame of the trailer under the floor. I bolted the vertical part not only to the horiz part of the chock, but also to the frame of the trailer. Tie down locations should be placed slightly forward of an imaginary line extending straight off the bottoms of the forks as they are with the bike loaded. This pulls the bike into the chock. (NOTE: The Kendon I had was made for bikes without fairings and to be hooked to the handle bars, so when strapped to the lower triple clamp it would pull the bike out of the chock; I modified it to work, but have sense sold it) For my enclosed I also installed a metal brace between the frame rails to provide support under the chock (under the front tire), as well as doing the same where the rear tire rests. In my total madness, I also drilled holes through the trailer floor and ran bolts to where the 'feet' would have been in the bottom of the chock (more redundancy...). You can see in the photo where the front tire sits on my modified chock. The gizmo is pinned so I can remove it like the movable part of the chock. I can also remove it to load (if I like to keep my left shin intact), and with a bike loaded I can stow it in place with the foot pad part on the floor of the trailer.
Please note the double straps in the front. I use the crappy tie down points for my slip straps both as redundency, but also to aide in the removal of the bike. The ratchet style, when released is QUICKLY and FULLY released, where the others allow a slow, controlled release. Also, I added a redundant strap for the rear for this trip. The main rears loop around the tire, go through add-a-links and then to the rear of the floor. This helps because the straps are still too long for proper use if hooked closer. Note that these points could also have been placed toward the front if the trailer is shorter; mine is a 12x6 (wanted shorter, but found this one used at a good price). Do not put these tie down points too close to each other as it can make the floor weak, unless you add bracing. Having two pairs at the rear wheel area allows me to strap down a wide varitiy of bikes, and be fully redundant with Wings, but most of what I load are Wings anyway. Yes, its a pain to loop around the lower triple clamp, and I have to crawl under the bike to strap the rear tire too; not fun, but if that's what it takes.....
The photos of my bike strapped in the trailer is how it was for a 3000 mile round trip to where we did a 700 mile ride. (only done to extend my riding season)
To assist people that might be either modifying or making a small trailer to haul their Wing, here is some info on the Kendon I had:
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...al-motorcycle-discussion-forum/374335-kendon-big-bike-trailer-1500-too-big.html
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...cle-discussion-forum/36121d1315518429-kendon-big-bike-trailer-1500-too-big-.jpg
The photo in the second link shows about where the axle needs to be in relation to the bike for proper tongue weight, provided the tongue length is similar. Note that the first photo of the loaded bike in that thread has a strap hanging from the crash bar, but not strapped there.
Almost every trailer is different, and using the following information might not work without modification or repair, so use your own judgment before trailering. Also, sometimes emergency situations dictate MAKING things work. Damaged bikes, flat tires, or other problems might dictate doing things one might not normally do.
Don't get really cheap when it comes to the details. I don't know why people can drop tens of thousands on the bike, then want to strap it down with $2 straps around a $45. rear tire (I digress....) As for the straps, get good, thick, durable straps with sturdy ratchets. Get solid tie down points for the trailer, and a durable chock. If it looks flimsy, either make it better or don't use it.
If your motorcycle is improperly tied down, or the tie-downs fail, and it 'frees itself' while being towed it could cost you your life! A few years ago we were just entering PA northbound on I-81 and there was a Ford Ranger just in front of us (about 5 seconds) that had a small equipment trailer loaded with a medium sized rider mower on it. We were both traveling about the speed limit, daytime, clear, medium to light traffic, dry pavement with no abnormal bumps. I don't know the reason, but the mower slid back on the trailer, and the trailer started swaying, BAD. After only a couple seconds, the truck and trailer did a "540" off to the right shoulder. Somehow there was no contact with us or anyone else. We helped the driver 're-secure' the mower to the front of the trailer and get back moving. It was amazing to see how what would seem to be relatively little do so much. Yea, it was a small truck, but it was also a small trailer and fairly small mower; you do the math. If it had been on a trailer without side rails and a tail gate who knows what would have happened to those behind him.
Just because someone has 'never had a problem' doing this differently does not automatically indicate that their way is 'correct'. its more likely that they have just been lucky. Do a search and you will find threads about broken or bent frames, bent crash bars, and other damage.
If you don't feel safe following the information I provided, or disagree with it, then don't use it and do it the way you want. There is no way to predict or prepare for every contingency, and crashes or other occurrences might cause issues no matter what you do.
Hope I covered everything (if not I know I will hear about it), and I hope this helps others be safe.
Bill
ADDED: I will be editing and adding info to this post as I think of it, or to correct spelling/grammar.
First off, yes, Goldwings are not "made" to be tied to a trailer, but that does not mean that it CAN'T be done, and done in the safest way possible. I have been trailering cars, trucks, and motorcycles for almost 30 years without problems or damage.
The basics of motorcycle tie down: With a sturdy chock (or the like), tie front of the bike by pulling the forks almost all the way compressed with straps to the lower triple clamp. You might have to remove some trim/tupperware to do this as I do with my 1500. That's it for the front. For the rear, strap the wheel/tire down securely to the trailer, that's it. If you tie to any 'sprung parts' you take the chance of shock loading and damage. NEVER tie down with the kick/side stand down. Proper tongue weight is also critical for towing safety. Once loaded on the trailer, the tongue should be between 10% and 15% of the TOTAL GROSS WEIGHT OF THE TRAILER.
The following is edited from a few of my posts over the years and new info I have added.
The front suspension (forks) is almost fully compressed by straps to the lower triple clamp and around the forks with the front wheel being kept from turning in a sturdy chock; this stabilizes and locates almost the entire bike. With the front done this way there is VERY little chance of a bump in the road causing the forks to compress any further to cause shock loading of the straps during the 'rebound'; also note that the front of the bike will be more on the tongue of the trailer and have a softer ride. If you tie the rear of the bike down by the "frame" (any sprung place) and you hit a bump in the road you will induce a shock load (rebound) on the straps and the frame (or seat, or crash bars, or...) will take this loading and is subject to failure because they are NOT designed for that type of loading. Note that this can bend or break your frame or other parts if you don't ALMOST FULLY 'LOAD' THE REAR SUSPENSION like the front!! Remember that there is more weight of the bike on the rear suspension and it will take LOTS of effort to pull it down as far as would be needed to keep shock loads from occurring. If you tie the rear of the bike DOWN securely by the rear wheel/tire, the weight of the bike (sprung weight) will ride on the rear suspension and there will be no shock loads to damage anything. Remember, the rear wheel and tire assy. has been designed to carry the weight of the bike, plus rider / passenger and hit normal sized bumps and holes in the road without damage, so it can take it. Also, if the bike has the side stand or center stand down while being trailered, a bump in the road can bend or fracture your frame.
The lower triple clamp is SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than the upper or the handlebars, and is a much better place to use. It also keeps the straps shorter and because of that they have less room to stretch. The only reason to use the upper clamp or handlebar at the clamp for ligher bikes without fairings or windshields is for ease of strapping, but its not better; EVER.
I purchased and installed a wheel chock from Harbor Freight in my enclosed trailer:
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97841.html
I like this chock because I can ride into the trailer, put the front tire in, and step off the bike and it holds the bike; no need to for the kick/side stand or center stand. This chock had the typical issues that are mentioned in the reviews, and I took care of most of them, as well as did some of my own upgrades. The big problem was getting the bike back out of the chock, and the bike's reverse would just barely do it. Not wanting to over stress the reverse, I decided to solve the problem; see the photos without the bike. I can now pull the 1500 out of the chock with only ME power! I can provide more details if people want, but sorry, I will not build them for people. The best part is I made it from scrap I had; yea, it could look better....
Not trusting the whimpy tie downs with the Harbor Frieght chock (10MM threads), I added tie down points are attached to sections of angle I welded to the frame of the trailer under the floor. I bolted the vertical part not only to the horiz part of the chock, but also to the frame of the trailer. Tie down locations should be placed slightly forward of an imaginary line extending straight off the bottoms of the forks as they are with the bike loaded. This pulls the bike into the chock. (NOTE: The Kendon I had was made for bikes without fairings and to be hooked to the handle bars, so when strapped to the lower triple clamp it would pull the bike out of the chock; I modified it to work, but have sense sold it) For my enclosed I also installed a metal brace between the frame rails to provide support under the chock (under the front tire), as well as doing the same where the rear tire rests. In my total madness, I also drilled holes through the trailer floor and ran bolts to where the 'feet' would have been in the bottom of the chock (more redundancy...). You can see in the photo where the front tire sits on my modified chock. The gizmo is pinned so I can remove it like the movable part of the chock. I can also remove it to load (if I like to keep my left shin intact), and with a bike loaded I can stow it in place with the foot pad part on the floor of the trailer.
Please note the double straps in the front. I use the crappy tie down points for my slip straps both as redundency, but also to aide in the removal of the bike. The ratchet style, when released is QUICKLY and FULLY released, where the others allow a slow, controlled release. Also, I added a redundant strap for the rear for this trip. The main rears loop around the tire, go through add-a-links and then to the rear of the floor. This helps because the straps are still too long for proper use if hooked closer. Note that these points could also have been placed toward the front if the trailer is shorter; mine is a 12x6 (wanted shorter, but found this one used at a good price). Do not put these tie down points too close to each other as it can make the floor weak, unless you add bracing. Having two pairs at the rear wheel area allows me to strap down a wide varitiy of bikes, and be fully redundant with Wings, but most of what I load are Wings anyway. Yes, its a pain to loop around the lower triple clamp, and I have to crawl under the bike to strap the rear tire too; not fun, but if that's what it takes.....
The photos of my bike strapped in the trailer is how it was for a 3000 mile round trip to where we did a 700 mile ride. (only done to extend my riding season)
To assist people that might be either modifying or making a small trailer to haul their Wing, here is some info on the Kendon I had:
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...al-motorcycle-discussion-forum/374335-kendon-big-bike-trailer-1500-too-big.html
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...cle-discussion-forum/36121d1315518429-kendon-big-bike-trailer-1500-too-big-.jpg
The photo in the second link shows about where the axle needs to be in relation to the bike for proper tongue weight, provided the tongue length is similar. Note that the first photo of the loaded bike in that thread has a strap hanging from the crash bar, but not strapped there.
Almost every trailer is different, and using the following information might not work without modification or repair, so use your own judgment before trailering. Also, sometimes emergency situations dictate MAKING things work. Damaged bikes, flat tires, or other problems might dictate doing things one might not normally do.
Don't get really cheap when it comes to the details. I don't know why people can drop tens of thousands on the bike, then want to strap it down with $2 straps around a $45. rear tire (I digress....) As for the straps, get good, thick, durable straps with sturdy ratchets. Get solid tie down points for the trailer, and a durable chock. If it looks flimsy, either make it better or don't use it.
If your motorcycle is improperly tied down, or the tie-downs fail, and it 'frees itself' while being towed it could cost you your life! A few years ago we were just entering PA northbound on I-81 and there was a Ford Ranger just in front of us (about 5 seconds) that had a small equipment trailer loaded with a medium sized rider mower on it. We were both traveling about the speed limit, daytime, clear, medium to light traffic, dry pavement with no abnormal bumps. I don't know the reason, but the mower slid back on the trailer, and the trailer started swaying, BAD. After only a couple seconds, the truck and trailer did a "540" off to the right shoulder. Somehow there was no contact with us or anyone else. We helped the driver 're-secure' the mower to the front of the trailer and get back moving. It was amazing to see how what would seem to be relatively little do so much. Yea, it was a small truck, but it was also a small trailer and fairly small mower; you do the math. If it had been on a trailer without side rails and a tail gate who knows what would have happened to those behind him.
Just because someone has 'never had a problem' doing this differently does not automatically indicate that their way is 'correct'. its more likely that they have just been lucky. Do a search and you will find threads about broken or bent frames, bent crash bars, and other damage.
If you don't feel safe following the information I provided, or disagree with it, then don't use it and do it the way you want. There is no way to predict or prepare for every contingency, and crashes or other occurrences might cause issues no matter what you do.
Hope I covered everything (if not I know I will hear about it), and I hope this helps others be safe.
Bill
ADDED: I will be editing and adding info to this post as I think of it, or to correct spelling/grammar.
