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Fuel Leak. Big One. A Geyser. GL1500

6K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  JerseyWinger 
#1 ·
With the beautiful spring weather today, I thought I'd get my Goldwing (93 GL1500A) out on the road. When I started it up, I saw a liquid pouring out the left side of the engine right around my toe. I shut the engine off and confirmed that was gasoline on my driveway. Lots of it. I guess the mice chewed through a fuel line, right? I took off the side covers and started the engine again. I couldn't believe there was fuel spraying out of what looks like an unused hose attachment on some round thingamajig. Some searches on this website lead me to believe this could be caused by stuck carb floats. I tried unplugging the fuel pump, and the bike ran for a little while without the leak. When I restored power to the fuel pump, the geyser returned.

Could anyone confirm that the leak from this location is likely due to sticky carb floats? If so, isn't that a crazy design? What is that round thingy anyway?

OK, so assuming that the root cause is the floats, does anyone have advice on how to free the floats up without removing the carbs? I saw some advice about banging the carb through the radiator, but I can't figure out how and exactly where to do that.

I read this thread, but my leak location is different: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/420322-gl1500-fuel-leak.html

Exhibit 1: Where the fuel sprays out:


Exhibit 2: Why I automatically suspected mice:


Thanks.
 
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#2 ·
Jersey,
I am wondering if the bike is the California model and that is the carb air vent valve? See attached. If fuel is flowing from that point the needle valves are stuck open probably. The easiest way to remedy it (if you are lucky) is tor run the carbs out of gas. I usually pinch the fuel line enough so the bike runs out of fuel in a minute or two. That makes the floats drop and pulls the needle far off the seat. Usually when you restart the engine any debris is washed away and life is good again. Only pinch the hose enough to stop the fuel but not damage the hose. A needle nose plies with a hose over the jaws works well.
 

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#3 ·
Thanks Redwing. This bike was originally sold in NJ, but I think we do have to get California emissions vehicles sometimes in NJ.

Anyway, I'll try your method next weekend, though I'm not optimistic because I tried something similar by disconnecting the fuel pump. Maybe I didn't run the carbs dry though. It's hard to tell if it stalled from the normal first-run-of-the-season crankiness or lack of fuel.

Thanks again.
Eric
 
#5 ·
Well, I ran her dry several times. Disconnected the line at the fuel filter and disconnected the fuel pump. No amount of bouncing would free things up. I removed all sorts of tupperware to try to get to where I could bang directly on the float bowls, but I can't find the suckers, either through the radiator or behind the manifold. I don't think I have the patience to pull the carbs, so I'll have to have a mechanic come 'n get it.

I did some Google searches and found a guy who had all sorts of green gum in the float bowls. I wonder if that's what I have. I did use Sta-bil for the winter, but there could be lots of accumulated crud in a 22-year old carburetor.

First time in 13 years of ownership I've had to take her in for anything but tires. I do the rest myself, including timing belts and a major body rebuild after being totaled in a rear-ender. I just don't think I'm up for this detailed dissection that's likely required.

By the way, yes, this bike does have California emissions, and that round gushing doodad is apparently part of it.

Thanks for your advice, RedWing52.

Eric
 
#7 ·
It's sure possible that a mouse chewed something. That was my first thought. But take a look at this video, and you can see the fuel is not coming out a leaking hose.

My mechanic is backed up for a month, so in the interim he advised similar to redwing52 -- start it up and cut the fuel, then bang on the carbs. I've done that a few times with no luck. He also suggested that getting fuel flowing through the carbs might free things up, so I should start it up periodically. Sounds like a good idea, but no luck yet.
 
#9 ·
Eric,
I attached a diagram that shows the California plumbing. In the other states all that exists is the carb vents to a tube that runs down to the bottom of the bike. That is so in the event of a leak it leaks out the bottom and not on a hot engine causing a fire.
The California emission goes to an evaporation canister. Then it is stored and later burned to keep air pollution down.
With all that said, keep in mind the only purpose of the carb vent at the carb is so gas can come in. Air must be able to get out. Try blowing in your beer bottle. So if the bike was running normal no fuel would be at the vent outlet. For fuel to come out the vent valve on your bike the carb/s must be overfilling. Then it comes out the vent down to that vent valve where you see it. I saw it as well on the video. Long story short, there is an issue that is causing the carbs to overflow. No doubt. The most common thing is a stuck needle and seat which we have been trying to overcome by running them dry. If that is not the case the next most common is a bad float. Floats can crack etc and start to take on fuel. When this happens they don't float. They sink to the bottom and never float up to shut off the fuel. Did you ever have a toilet with a bad ballcock or float. If the ball can't come up the water floods over and runs out the vent to the bowl. Your bike is the same. That's why the motor runs so bad and quits. The fuel is flooding the engine out. Bet the engine ran nice when you pinched off the fuel line and ran it? At least until it started to run out of fuel? Might post on our forum that someone in your area might help you . Lots of good knowledgeable people who might offer to get you back on the road if you are unsure of your abilities. Post a new thread though so people know, without looking here.
 

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#10 ·
What you wrote makes perfect sense. The bike does run well for a short time when the fuel line is blocked. I think the problem is clearly the float or needle/seat. I just don't think I'm up for the skinned knuckles and back pain to get in there. My local independent mechanic is also encouraging me to fix it myself, and trying to talk me through it. (How rare is that!) I just know my limits. I respect those of you who do have the skills and patience to do carb work. I especially appreciate your advice, redwing52.
 
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