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Lets try this again round 2 - GL1500!

6K views 87 replies 13 participants last post by  Pure Texas 
#1 ·
Hey guys so after receiving the news about the gl1200 i saw this jewel on Craigslist and I could not pass it up. 88 GL1500 with.....ONLY 38K miles! im so excited for this bike and ive already rode her around a little. only thing she needs is rear tie and carbs synced. probably going to replace tbelt depending on what tyhe date of last change was.

anywho i do have one question. how do i get the compressor to work to air up my back shocks?
 
#4 ·
Id be cutting that windshield down,I just don't like tall shields.looks like a decent ride.
 
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#13 ·
Here are the basics.........................

Remove the seat (Four 6 mm bolts)

Remove the 8 mm acorn nuts (2) for the top (radio) compartment.

Rotate the two white levers (on either side under the gas cap cover) to free the top (radio) compartment to lift up.

Do the above so you can lift up the rear of the top (radio) compartment to free the tab for the right fairing inner cover (this cover is behind your right knee seated on the bike)

Remove the right fairing pocket (4 screws).

Remove the right failing lower cover "the one with the fairing reflector/light". (Actually just pull it out far enough to access a screw for a tab connected to the right fairing inner cover)

Remove the right fairing inner cover (two screws at the fairing pocket, one 10 mm bolt at the top rear of the cover (where the cover grommet pushes on)

Pull the fairing inner cover off, the air pressure controls are on the cover.

I just had this cover off of an '89 Gold Wing last Saturday.

ok will look at it and check it out. why did hond have to hide it partially behind the saddlebag? ugh. any idea how to get switch out to clean?
 
#10 ·
gee whiz 50 in the rear air shock!! 60 is max allowed!
Pure Texas: is the left shock working -leaking- dead?

The air shock is to raise the rear end when heavily loaded, and for extra support in hard cornering rides

I have ckd on my 94 and its 5 psi indicated increase from centerstand to on the wheels.
With Progressive dual rear air shocks the change is 1 psi

Its less effort for a small pump to increase pressure when no load is present = centerstand.
There is a diy on here or www.goldwingdocs.com for drying the stuff inside the compressor... or related part- That is important as a starting point when non-op system

other options are air connections and splits on end of air line
Do you also have the tire inflator mechanism with the compressor? in right saddlebag
 
#11 ·
50 was just a figure,I haven't looked at mine for a long time,they both are air,progressive,.i suppose it's just a preference,my 85 LTD had auto level so it would level it's self while moving,I would like that on the 1500
 
#20 ·
The rear wheel splines on the Goldwing are critical to being well greased,you might consider removing the wheel to check yours at that age.
 
#23 ·
Questions time. what would cause sluggish start off but after like 3k (maybe less) rpm she jumps with unphathomable power scaring me shitless lol? PO said carbs need to be synced would that be pretty good reason? if so How do i do it because yeah......no way in hell am i taking to a shop to get it done
 
#24 ·
This may (or may not) be your problem.

There was an "off idle" hesitation on the 1988 Gold Wing's. Honda provided a "Service Bulletin" to the dealerships that would correct the problem. It was not a "Recall" but just a "Service Bulletin". The dealerships would perform the changes outlined in the Service Bulletin when folks returned and complained about the problem. Maybe that was never performed on your bike...dunno..!

Some folks installed a trigger wheel that basically advanced the timing a little (slightly increasing the idle speed) and that tended to mask the problem.

I have a copy of that Service Bulletin.
 
#26 ·
Nah, its the "Pulse Rotor" located at the crankshaft pulley that turns the timing belts.

Folks typically call it a "Trigger Wheel"...............!!

That knob by your gas cap only adjusts the idle speed..............!!

Here is what it looks like................

http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500_valkyrie_trigger_wheel/167424/159787

Not necessarily recommending you install this wheel, just providing information....!
 
#32 ·
thanks fopr the pm and whatever is going on added a new symptom. now she hesitates slightly. like she put puts occasionally though it seems i have my power mostly back with one exception. she now idles around 1800k more or less. though if i rock the bikle front to back shell stumble down to 1100 then shoot back up and stay there unless i continuously rock the bike. im wondering if its because shes low on gas? or is something in the carbs just let go?
 
#33 ·
Use the knob by the fuel cap turn it counter cw to slow the idle down,low fuel shouldn't cause that
 
#34 ·
can the idle change like that though? last couple times i rode her she idled fine at 1000. then while she was warming today with choke on she started spitting occasionally but when i took choke off she dropped down to idle speed. wasnt until i started riding her that the idle went up
 
#39 ·
Just to touch base.... the throttle is supposed to have 1/8" - 1/4" freeplay at the grip. If the throttle is too tight it can cause the rpm to hunt. The engine should idle smoothly at 800 rpm.

The adjustment is under the right handlebar switch.... a 10mm nut and an 8mm adjuster. Loosen the 10mm nut and reduce the tension till there is freeplay at the grip.

Forgive me if you've already done this.;)
 
#37 ·
Sounds like by rocking it and rpm picks up it might be binding,how bout turning the handlebars left to right does the rpm change?
Pm me your address,I might have time to come look at it.
 
#45 ·
ok i know these bikes are carb'd in all but is there supposed to be a really noticeable fuel smell when bike is running and for a little after she is off?[/QUOTE
Mine does smell of gas sometime and I loosen the gas cap,there's a lot of pressure coming out.
 
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