Uh oh - 1994 GL1500A, jump started my neighbours Aspy this morning, and my own 1500 shut down on me in the process.
Key in 'off' position, '1st' position or 'ignite' makes no difference. Nothing on dash, solenoid, circuits or starter. Dead.
12.6 at battery, main fuse, alt and main bus. Will now tear down the seat and tupperware to start the chase. I'm suspecting a relay, but we have many and all over.
Post the year of your bike so you can get appropriate help. First of all 12.6 volts means nothing unless you are checking it with a load. What are voltages at battery, main fuse, alt and main bus. while trying to crank the engine? Also check the 30 amp fuse by relay "A". It will be by the relay (Solenoid) by the battery. If that fuse blows you get nothing.
Uh oh - 1994 GL1500A, jump started my neighbours Aspy this morning, and my own 1500 shut down on me in the process.
Key in 'off' position, '1st' position or 'ignite' makes no difference. Nothing on dash, solenoid, circuits or starter. Dead.
12.6 at battery, main fuse, alt and main bus. Will now tear down the seat and tupperware to start the chase. I'm suspecting a relay, but we have many and all over.
I have the same problem here, my 2000 F-150 truck won't start.
No clicks, no gauges, nothing........... battery measures the same as yours, 12.6 volts.
end result is, neither of us have done any real troubleshooting on it yet.
Your problem started with jump starting another bike. That caused some high current transients and IMO a fuse has blown.
My problem started with the daughter deciding to hose down the entire engine compartment because she thought it was "on fire"...
her reaction was a result of the wiper motor actually catching on fire the day before, and it scared her really bad..... I got the truck going and drove it home, left it in the driveway and she came out of the house and saw a bit of "oil fumes" drifting up out from the hood from a hot motor and thinks "OMG it is on fire again"
Wish you and me the best..... I am leaving my problem for a better day, I am too pissed at her right now to even think about working on it.
AZ - LOL, walk away for a day and crack a cold one. It stings so much more when its self inflicted on us!
DB - It was the Dog Bone fuse.
RED - It is difficult to put a load on at the moment as I can't get the starting circuit to come on. In fact I can't put a draw on anywhere unless I jump straight to the starter. Its like the battery is disconnected.
Deleted because he has the problem solved. Good job both you Guys.
Edit: Or maybe not. Did this "DB - It was the Dog Bone fuse." mean that was the issue or were you answering Dave that is where you tested voltage? Did you do the tests with the key on? That would be a load. Check the 30 amp fuse.
Hey guys - correct, the problem is still unresolved.
I gave him my key (i know, i know) and let him jump it that morning. He says he went battery to battery (all four posts). He didn't ask and I forgot to check that he was grounding properly. Reportedly, my Wing was left on for up to ten minutes, charging up his lead acid. (I could of swore he was running an AGM and Compu, like me, but anyways).
He said when he cranked his bike at minute five, minute six or minute seven; my bike went completely dead on him.
Since then we've confirmed turning the key on, fails to produce load or access to power. No draw whatsoever.
- Main fused B has been tested. 12.6v.
- AGM has 12.6v.
- Starter Relay Switch A's fuse has been tested for continuity, but not voltage thus far. Called back to work today and didnt get to finish the test. So, the fuse is good, but I havent confirmed the circuit is getting its voltage.
- Over on the fuse box side, I haven't pulled any Relays but I've confirmed there weren't any blown fuses. Off work tomorrow.
- 12.6v at the Alternator and a resistance check on cables, to prove the battery terminals connections are correct.
- Again, key on or key off, makes no difference anywhere on the bike. Its like the ignition key lock doesn't exist.
If everything you list is accurate it seems the only likely issue would be the ignition switch itself. They are not known to fail very often at all. As for a relay issue it would have to be more than one relay that failed. Not likely that would happen. When you tested the fuses did you test them with a meter or test light making sure you had power on both sides. Some do it by sight and that can be deceiving. Use a meter or test light to be sure. Again, the 30 amp fuse would do exactly what you are experiencing. That fuse is the one that sends power to the ignition switch. So obviously if there is an issue it would act just like you never turned the key on. I would really check that out. If you happen to have the optional trunk light that must be working if the 30 amp fuse is good.
half visually and half by multimeter.
I shall recheck them all in the morning correctly.
I don't have a trunk light, but I sure hope it isn't the ignition switch.
I wonder ..... on my 1500 which has an Odyssey AGM, to reach that top post one almost is best off removing the seat itself. I usually clamp my maintainer to the top lug on top side of the big 55 amp DB fuses. Mine has two 55 amp fuses spaced apart with a single washer per Comp-u-fire's instructions as the C-u-f can put out many more amps than OEM alternator and if only one 55 amp fuse is in place, the C-u-f can blow it if the load is present. If your buddy took the "short cut" of using the lower side, he was drawing through the 55 amp fuse (or "s" if yours has two 55 amp fuses with the C-u-f alt as mine does) if you have only one.
When you checked at the 55 amp main fuse location ... or any other fuses ... Did you check voltage at both sides of fuses with positive (red) lead while negative (black) lead was grounded? Did you check for continuity across the fuses themselves?
Remove the 55 amp fuse .... see if they come out in one piece or if they fall apart?
On a different note, I've considered replacing the two 55 amp DB fuses with a single 70 amp circuit breaker ..... but have not yet done so. The below pic was posted some place years ago ...... but I never did it as never saw a huge benefit from it.
I suppose the reasoning was that 70 amps is a lower protection thresh hold than the 110 or so amps that the two 55 amp fuses offer, and yet 70 amps is still adequate for all uses on a GL1500 .... so maybe I'll go ahead and do it? https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7821344/
I am not sure but I would think if you disconnected the dogbone fuse the voltage sensing ability of the regulator would be impaired and you might get a lot of voltage spikes in the electronics. I would never do this on purpose. Did you ever take the negative off the old cars to see if the charging system was working? Make sure the door is closed. It will burn out the dome light instantly. Similar situation.
I am not sure but I would think if you disconnected the dogbone fuse the voltage sensing ability of the regulator would be impaired and you might get a lot of voltage spikes in the electronics.
Cheers gents. Appreciate it.
And the tangents! If you own something, you should know everything about it (as close as possible).
Starter relay and fuse were the culprit.
Took it apart, could not find anything wrong through voltage or a resistance test on either relay, holder, harness or fuse (oddly mine had a 40amp fuse in there?!?) - wiped it down though and through it back in.
Fired right away.
Although I'm happy to be purring again, I'm going to rule this part of the bike yellow still as there is no indication of what was the issue. Bad harness? Relay or fuse holder? Will order a spare assembly to be careful but must continue investigating I think...
Might just be old parts fail??? There is a connection inside the solenoid that feeds the fuse. That would account for the issue. The relay itself can't cause the issue unless the internal connection is no good.
We Ride
I was having kinda the same issue as you but I could replace the relay and it would run but then I would go to start it again,nothing,what I found with the help of DBohrer was the plug the relay plugs into was worn and loose ( I could physically move the relay in its mount)and that was what was causing it to loose contact,I just took some needle nose pliers and gently put a small twist on all 4 relay posts and that fixed my issue.Good Luck on yours.
Just want to try and keep us all on the same page....no offense intended.....!
Pure Texas....I believe the relay you referenced was the "ignition/cruise" relay. (located in the relay box).
We Ride....The relay you are referencing is the "starter relay (solenoid) A". ( located by the battery)
They are two different designed relays. The ignition/cruise relay plugs in to a socket. The starter relay (solenoid) A has two cable connections and a plug connection to activate (trigger) the relay.
Pure Texas.....If I remember you had lights etc. but intermittent starting issues. You had input voltage to your ignition switch (because you had lights etc.).
We Ride....Did not have input voltage to the ignition switch.
This would be two different issues.
Someone please correct me if I have this mixed up.......!!
Based on everything I have read I really believe We Ride's issue is (lack of voltage flow) from the battery through the Green fuse holder assembly (and 30-amp fuse) to the ignition switch. I don't believe he has a starter relay (solenoid) A failure. Just my opinion which might not be worth much....!
Note: That Green fuse holder assembly is even sold as a separate item. It can be switched from one relay to another proving the relay is not involved regarding voltage to the ignition switch. But I have tested the same....!
I shall stop now, don't want to be accused of getting tooooo detailed OR Picky.......!!!:grin3:
Correct - for my part, anyways - I am dealing with starter relay (solenoid) A.
And I had a dead bike on every circuit to begin with - whether the key was engaged or not.
for action - thoroughly removing the green holder and test various continuity etc.
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