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hazzard lights problem

1K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Erdeniz Umman 
#1 ·
1995 GL1500se

I have just developed a problem with my hazzard lights (4 ways). My turn signals work fine individually, but not for the hazzards. When I push the hazzard button in, I only get the left side to blink. Odd. Anybody got an idea?

As always, thanks in advance for any and all advice given.
 
#5 ·
Yes, the grease- called dielectric grease -available at parts stores, dries up and gunks the switches.
All of them are prone to this, especially the ones we dont normally use.

The emergency shortcut when the hazards get stuck ON is to spray into the switch thru its opening and push repeatedly until it frees up.

The way to do it right is open the case for the switch, pull down gently on the innards and clean out old grease using the BLUE can of CRC electrical contact spray cleaner - safe for use around plastics like our extensive bodywork.

When its all working good, apply new grease with a q-tip or similar tool.
close switch cover and enjoy riding~
 
#10 ·
Tom, I would lift the top half of the switch cluster to expose the Hazard switch............!!

The Hazard switch is in the top half (not the bottom half) of the switch cluster.

I don't think you can actually get any spray into the switch without opening it up. The switch sits back in pretty deep, activated by a push rod.

You can't get to the "mechanical part" of the Hazard switch to apply any grease (unless you remove the switch)....!

Yeah, I just happen to have a left switch cluster on my work bench as I type. Have a right switch cluster also (minus the cruise set/decel switch).
 
#6 ·
I agree with the guys, but I'm lazy. Usually if you work the switch about 250 times it will come back to life again. Tom is exactly right. The switches that get used the least have the best chance of acting up. Like mute buttons for the radio. I thought mine hadn't been used in a long time so I decided to give it a try. Big mistake. After a few hundred I got it to unmute. Then I left it alone.
 
#7 ·
The above just emphasises why I make a habit of exercsing all the switches on my bikes.

I have never had one jam up permanently. Stubborn yes, but if you keep working them, they will stay free for a long time.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

this is one product that can be used to lube them, I prefer to find one that states plainly "silicone dielectric grease".

This one probably is because of the benefits they list for it.


  • Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion
  • Prevents voltage leaks around any electrical connection
  • Extends the life of bulb sockets
  • Required for modern high energy ignition systems
  • Suggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trailer hitches, battery terminals
 
#9 ·
Harold, I agree with others, it is probably the Hazard switch.

Hazard flasher circuit:

1. Output voltage from the ACC "10-amp" fuse (light green/black wire) goes to the Hazard flasher. (No problem here)

2. Output voltage (pink/white wire) from the Hazard flasher to the Hazard switch. (No problem here)

3. Output voltage from the Hazard switch (orange wire "left" and light blue wire "right" is spliced into the left and right turn signal wires. (Right where the wires come out of the turn signal switch)

When you activate the Hazard switch:

You have output voltage from the Hazard switch to the left turn signal "orange" wire. (No problem here)

You should have output voltage from the Hazard switch to the right turn signal "light blue" wire. (You have a problem here)

Could be a problem where that light blue wire is connected to the Hazard switch, where it is spliced to the turn signal wire, or a break in the light blue wire, but that is very very very doubtful..........!!! Most likely a problem with the switch.

You could remove the top half of the left switch cluster (two screws).

Bend the top half back some, look into the top half, you will see a "white" plastic cover (it covers the Hazard switch).

Spray some electrical contact cleaner down along each side of the "white" plastic cover to the bottom area of the Hazard switch.

Then work the Hazard switch several (or many) times to clean it up.
 
#12 ·
Thanks guys for the input. Looks like a thorough switch cleaning is in my near future. I have that darn sticky mute button also. Pushed it once and had to wait until it got sunny and the switch warmed up to get the mute off. I have left it alone since. I will purchase the dielectric grease John suggested and the plastic safe CRC contact cleaner (hey that stuff is pricey for a can).

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Must have had my head upside down while remembering a thread that said pull down -sorry.

On my 94- when the hazards got stuck in the ON position and flashing away nicely,
I asked John for advice then went to town with the CRC thru the switch opening
After a while of spray and push it finally released the rod and the `button` came back out = lights off! Success! I went for my ride.

Plans are to take both sides switches covers off and perform the full maintenance on my own bike, as I had suggested to others~

Funny that the PO of my 94 said he never used most of the switches because they might get stuck!
Using every switch occasionally to frequently seems to help. That grease is only 22 years old~ why should that be a problem :)

Tubes of the dielectric grease are a few dollars at parts store.
John says the BLUE CAN of CRC is safe around plastics
I had a red can and a `drips catch rag` No damage was incurred during the emergency repair
 
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