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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesPal View Post
During the winter time I like to change the oil warm. It keeps my fingers warm.
Fingers, hand, arm up to the elbow.
I agree with Dennis. Most service manuals say warm so the oil is mixed up and will carry the contaminants away. I think that is the preferred method. As for the draining overnight I had a bad experience. I had a VW that I drained warm and let it drain over night. Thought that would be a good thing. Changed the oil and started the engine to find no oil pressure. The oil pump got so fry it lost it's prime. Kind of panicked. Already had the filter full before even starting it so I tried removing the filter and run the engine. No luck. It was just not going to prime and I was getting to a point where the lifters were starting to get noisey. I ended up overfilling it by a lot. Let it sit several hours and hit the key to find it had oil pressure again. Drained out the excess oil and all was good again. I know that is unusual but I will never do that on another engine. Especially one that has quite a few miles on it and probably worn oil pump elements. I'm guessing the old pump just didn't suck like it should.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:50 PM
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I have always just pulled the drain plug. Warm, cold, whatever. It stays out until I think it is done. Usually I pull it and go have a sandwich and a drink.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:35 PM
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IF you are using seafoam in the oil before change, it does need a good 10-15 minute blaster ride to fully warm the oil before draining.
Sludge type material does settle and harden at the bottom of the oil pan -on a car engine- when left overnight after a good seafoam cleaning run
The warm-up will re-liquify the crud, and send it out the drain.

Thats assuming the oil filter doesnt capture all the bad stuff,
which I suppose if we still used rolls of toilet paper as oil filters,,, that would be an issue

short version: Just oil, either temp, just let it drain as much as possible.
Seafoam added- MUST be warm!

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
Sure, that's a truth .... and if it's time to change like at end of your season ..... but OP is past that point now .... but he can do it tomorrow ..... which is still better than 6 months from now.


I never heard that one.


You gonna start a cold bike to warm last season's dirty/acidic oil that is gonna drain the same this time as it did last time you shut it off hot just to get some last bit that is maybe fell out of suspension in the bottom of the crankcase .... with the hope being to get it suspended again maybe ???


If it's something up on the sides of the motor's internals, it's no more likely to get swept down below by a warm up than it was at end of last ride? If it's something that fell out of suspension in the bottom of the crankcase / trans floor, I think it likely the oil flowing out the drain will get a bunch of it anyway.


I think (IMHO) it far better to just do the drain if it's already cool .... and put in fresh oil & filter .... and then if you think you want to start it .... start it then with fresh clean oil and new filter which will filter that stuff out and fill all those galleys and passages with that pretty clean stuff.


The only reason for a warm up before change that I've ever heard is to speed the drain like "I want to change my oil now" so that cold oil isn't left slowly dripping from high places like it would if you just started it and moved a few feet to where you were gonna do the change without a complete warm up .... and because a start without thorough warming leaves condensation all inside the motor and exhaust as it never get's hot enough to eliminate it.


Unless I have some other reason to have the engine running .... like maybe I did just finish a ride (or drive if cage or mowing the yard if tractor, etc) .... I've always dropped it cold and allowed it a long drip time. There's always other chores.


Anyway ..... everyone has their habits, reasons, preferences, etc ....
.... and them's just some of mine.


Stay Warm Y'all!

As an old retired guy that owned an oil distribution company, I will throw in my two cents. First off --- always change your oil hot, preferably after a 20 minute ride or more. Oil will build up with acids from cold starts, short trips and long idle periods. There are additives to help offset the contaminates that come from use of the engine, but as they deplete over time the only way to get them out is to change oil. When I say to warm up your oil I want to explain that your oil never lubes well until 180f --- thats regular oil or syn oil. (Ever notice the generators plugged into the Nascar vehicles before they pull out on to the track -- their oil is already over 200f for a reason). Take it for a ride and get all the particulate off the bottom of the engine. If you don't think there are any wear solids in your oil, then do as I described above and then take your drain pan and set it aside for 5 days. Then slowly drain the oil off the top and you will see what covered the bottom of your engine. The additives in the oil help suspend the particles in the oil, but you need to start the engine to get the heavy particles off the bottom and out the drain hole. Most oil filters are 30 micro so the big stuff (nuts, bolts, rings) are in the oil filter, but the fine particles are floating in your hot oil or laying in the bottom of your cold engine. Always change at the end of the season (dirty oil) and change it hot from a nice ride. My two cents.
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