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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Water pump when does it need to be replaced?

Replacing the timing belts involves pulling the cover off the water pump so I tried wiggling the impeller and there seemed to be a fairly significant side to side movement.

Looking at the Haynes manual (linked in another thread) it says that any movement is grounds for replacement.

The Clymer and Honda manuals do not have any guidance on how much movement is too much.

In this thread
1985 gl1200 water pump

there seems to be a general trend to leave the water pump in place.

Criteria for replacement would be
A. Pump is leaking (Ken Bergen)
B. Bearings are screaming like a freight train. (Ken Bergen)
C. Temperature gauge shows 3/4 or more most of the time (JeffMayfield)

Bike and Dennis did mention that you could pull the lower hose off and check the pump for play, but did not say anything about how much play was tolerable.

What is the standard water pump replacment practice/guideline?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:22 AM
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get a mechanics stethoscope, harbor freight has them under $5 or parts stores for 10.
Place tip on metal in various areas, a bad bearing will sound like a garage grunge band.
If its got major shaft play, the bearing is toasted
Any other symptoms you are having with temp, coolant loss?
Ck for noises

Gurus!! does the wp have the conventional weep hole?
For noobs: when the shaft seal goes- it lets coolant out a hole on bottom of pump so it drips and you notice.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 12:27 AM
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from my memory, any side play at all is grounds for replacing the water pump.

it will only get worse as time goes on, IF the bike is ridden steadily that is.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aloha Tom View Post
If its got major shaft play, the bearing is toasted
Any other symptoms you are having with temp, coolant loss?
Ck for noises
The radiator was completely full (it started overflowing when the cap was removed) and there was plenty of fluid in the reserve reservoir. When I rode it from Florida to Texas last month the temperature was midscale the entire trip. I did not notice any noises from the pump on the trip or on the short trips in town since reaching Texas.

The dealer in Florida that did a pretrip inspection after I bought the bike (who declared it not safe to ride) did not mention any issues with the water pump.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 01:04 AM
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There's a bearing holding the shaft in place, so there shouldn't be much movement. However, there is some margin between brand new, and worn out.

Usually you'll get some leaking out of the weep hole before the bearing screams. Make sure the weep hole is open and, if like you say, there is "significant" play in the shaft, just do what you know needs to be done.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 06:27 AM
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If you can feel any side to side play that's too much. It may go quite a while before it starts leaking or making noise but you never know where or when so now is the time.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 07:58 AM
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Replacing requires a lot more stuff to come off..and a complete new gasket set. If it is not leaking I'd leave it alone. Usually even when they do start to leak you can ride the bike for months without any issues except the leak. Just replacing the timing belts doesn't have anything to do with the pump stuff anyway..except the idea of removing the radiator..and you really don't have to remove that to do the belts just makes it much easier.

But to your question any movement is not good.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 09:02 AM
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For the sake and peace of mind, I would replace it, As stated above, The bearings could-could not be good, But those bearings will not get any better. If it was mine and my friends wanted to go on a 100-200 mile ride it would be in the back of my mind, that when and if it would go out. {usually away from home] You may have a tow or engine damage. I would bite the bullet and have a peace of mind that I would not have to worry about it. Good luck with it and hope it would last forever, But not the case on this. I wonder what was the pretrip comments? Wishing you the best................Charlie
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie in nc View Post
I wonder what was the pretrip comments? Wishing you the best................Charlie
Front and rear tire needs replaced has a lot of dry rot front forks need rebuild seals are leaking rear diff is leaking has small exhaust leak carbs need tuened DOT 4 brake service may need cailper and or master cyl. rebuild apon serviceing brake system bike is not safe to ride do to condition of unit no test drive has been preformed


(Spelling/typing errors are in the original which was also in all caps)

The main safety issue was the dry rotted tires.

The carb tuning was at least partially caused by the carbs not being wonderfully clean. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through the tank on the ride back and the performance improved.

I would never take a bike to that dealer again.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:37 PM
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I like What RB said. I rode mine a long time with the weep hole leaking a lot. No overheat problems, no noise etc. However, I changed my water pump finally because the nice green antifreeze in my plastic overflow tank was turning brown, indicating I was getting engine oil through the waterpump center bearing seal. Which means you can also be getting antifreeze back through that seal into the engine oil. Not good!
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