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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Screw's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Baker City Oregon
Year: 1984
Make: Honda
Model: 1200
Posts: 103
TRAC- Anti Dive system.

I really cant find any good info on the TRAC system on my GL1200 I have it set on 3 now since I have read the 4th level is to stiff. I havnt rode it in any of the other settings I would just rather trust another fellow rider. I know you dont want it too stiff or you could lose rear traction with the back tire. I use my front brake more than my rear one just a habit I guess. I do try and use even braking when its a planned stop but instant stops are usually foot then hand. So Im open to suggestions...
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 08:33 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Glendale, Arizona, USA
Model: 1987 GL1200 Interstate 285,000 miles
Posts: 17,075
Has nothing to do with the rear. All it does is control excessive dive of the front by limiting fluid flow.

Depending on what kind and the condition of the springs, you go out and test the dive. If too much, back it off, too little, ramp it up.
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Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 11:07 AM
seafoam guru
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: 209, CA
Year: 94
Model: 1500 SE
Posts: 3,894
Make sure system operates freely by pushing the operating button several times- with bike parked.
Im guessing the same system on 1500 was used in prior decades.

Set it to soft, apply hard Front-only braking at 20-30 mph
Does it squat on the forks? Move to setting 2 and retest.
Now it has no give in the forks, feels like going over boulders under braking? too much!

Is your fork oil more than 2 years old? Real fork oil in it? or atf or other fluid? 10w, 15w?
Fork springs original? maybe Progressive brand recently?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 03:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WPB, Florida
Model: 2000 1500 SE
Posts: 5
I need to measure the TRAC fork setup on my 2000 GW and see if the identical setup would fit on my 2000 Valkyrie. (You would think mother Honda would make more parts interchangeable, but alas that ain't the case.

I can't understand why the TRAC system wasn't a standard feature on the Valkyrie.

Any ideas?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 03:19 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Coos Bay, OR
Model: Slightly less than before.
Posts: 854

My 1984 V65 Sabre has the TRAC system. Never played with it much, just rode!


I've learned so much from my mistakes, I'm thinking about making a few more.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
Screw's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Baker City Oregon
Year: 1984
Make: Honda
Model: 1200
Posts: 103
Im pretty sure the fork oil and springs are original, not sure really. That is my next major thing to be done is replace the air assist o-rings and put new seals and oil in. May even do new springs if there needed. What I mean by affecting rear braking is when you dive in the front the weight shifts and the rear tire becomes lighter, like doing a stoppie.
I have noticed they only cross for a few years usually on any of the parts really. Seems that innovation is always improving.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 08:38 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Victoria BC Canada
Year: 1985 and 2008
Make: GL1200 and GL1800
Model: '85 LTD
Posts: 147
Here is a site about motorcycle brake systems including the TRAC system:


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Baker City Oregon
Year: 1984
Make: Honda
Model: 1200
Posts: 103
And the answer is..! I copied this since it answers nearly every question I had.


The Honda TRAC system differs somewhat from the ADVS-style units. Honda maintain that hydraulic systems have two basic drawbacks. First, the additional brake-line plumbing and increased brake-lever ratios can produce a spongy feeling at the brake lever. Second, those systems are either on or off - there's no modulation of antidive effect. To get around these problems, TRAC is instead activated through the torque reaction of the brake caliper itself. This makes it completely independent of the hydraulics in the brake system. It works because one of the two front brake calipers is hinged behind the fork leg on a pivoting link, rather than being solidly attached. When you apply the brakes, the pads grip the spinning disc and this tries to drag the brake caliper around with it. The caliper pivots on the link and presses against the anti-dive activating valve which is built directly into the fork leg. From then on it, it works just like the Yamaha and Suzuki systems, restricting the flow of fork oil and stiffening the suspension. The advantage of the Honda system (they say) is that the harder you brake, the more pressure the pivoting caliper puts on the control valve, and the stiffer the suspension gets. One important difference with TRAC is its ability to deal with the bumpy road surfaces which the other systems had a problem with. The TRAC valve is a floating piston held in place by a spring. This means that if you hit a bump, the sharp and sudden increase in the pressure of the fork oil can override the anti-dive valve and force oil through the valve as if it were not applied. This means that TRAC can respond to bumpy roads whilst braking. Clever eh?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 11:59 PM
seafoam guru
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: 209, CA
Year: 94
Model: 1500 SE
Posts: 3,894
So they did use the same setup for many decades!
On my 94 it was possible to put a flat screwdriver between the TRAC button and something-
allowed fulcrum action to move the TRAC button fully several times, get it loosened up.
Something I recommend everyone do when you are cking the front end, pad wear etc.

You can go all the way into the system for seal replacement- when doing fork oil change...every 2 years!
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