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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Goldwing Technical Forum > Better grease for caliper sleeves

Better grease for caliper sleeves  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 07:16 pm 1st Post
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exavid



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For anyone reworking calipers an important bit of maintenance is to remove the caliper mounting sleeve and clean it and the caliper mount bore. Water often gets past the rubber seals and shortly after the sleeve freezes in the caliper and a dragging or locking brake results. I'd been using boat trailer wheel bearing grease for lubing the outside of the sleeve due to its waterproof qualities. Problem with that is the stuff comes in pretty large containers which sit on the shelf for ages drying out. A better grease I'm using now is plumber's grease. It comes in a small tube for a buck and a half or so, plenty to do a bunch of calipers. It's the stuff compounded for lubricating the working parts of sink faucets and such that are in intimate conctact with flowing water. Good stuff for a caliper sleeve too since it's ideal to protect from water caused corrosion. Not to mention for around the house plumbing.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 07:41 pm 2nd Post
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Cal-D



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I use Permatex Silicone Brake Grease. A $18 tub will last a long time and does not brake down. It is designed for this application unlike Wheel bearing and plumbers grease.


http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Disc_Brake_Caliper_Lube_Hi-Temp_Silicone_Formula.htm

Last edited on Sun Dec 5th, 2010 07:46 pm by Cal-D



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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 08:30 pm 3rd Post
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exavid



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Sounds like good stuff. Doubtless superior in high temp use however I've never seen much indication that the caliper mounts on the 'Wing brakes heat up to high temps. Never seen any burned grease. I like to use cheap stuff when it will do the job so personally prefer the less than two bucks stuff over the less than twenty buck kind. Now if you lived next door I probably would stop over for a finger full of the silicon stuff.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 09:24 pm 4th Post
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goldtop



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If Plumbers lube is used on taps/ faucets then they are by nautre used on hot tapes. Now my hot tap can get very hot around the collar area where the lube is used. Doubtless as hot as the caliper areas you refer to.

By that logic then the plumbers lube will work very well in the areas you have tried.

I have up to now been using copper spray in these areas but on next rebuild I will give this some thought when re assembeling.

Cheers Andy



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 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 09:26 pm 5th Post
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JackfromCT



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I've been using the CNC brake grease they sell at the auto parts stores...I think I paid about $4.

 Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 10:24 pm 6th Post
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Bellboy40



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I've got some lube that comes in a small bottle that I use around the swimming pool parts.  I use it when lubing the bearing for the pump.  It is a blue grease.  Might be the same stuff exavid is using.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:12 am 7th Post
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ive used a synthetic brake greese on my bikes and cars it works great



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:38 am 8th Post
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exavid



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The main thing is that those mounting sleeves get some attention, we've had several members have brake problems due to the sleeves becoming frozen. There are two things that often cause brake problems on these bikes, stuck sleeves and a plugged inlet port in master cylinders.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 04:22 am 9th Post
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welsh winger



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I have been using silcone brake grease on my Bikes and cars for 10 years now, it lasts much longer than other types of grease.

In fact sat in the house yesterday watching my youngest, service his brakes on his toyota MR 2, I did help honest I took him a warm drink, at -3 he was on his own. :smiler:

Nick




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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 12:33 pm 10th Post
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Cal-D



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I have been using the Permatex for years. It does not "wash out" like others I've seen.

That $18 jar has lasted me about 2 years and has done well over 50 brake jobs, so cost is probably less than $0.50 per.

Last edited on Mon Dec 6th, 2010 12:36 pm by Cal-D



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:08 pm 11th Post
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OK....are we talking about the mounting bolt, pin bolt, or both? Would like to know. And do you just tap the sleeve out? A little how-to guidance would be appreciated as my rear is dragging (squealing) after putting on new pads.

Thanks!



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:14 pm 12th Post
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welsh winger



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Hi Mark,
dose with WD40, leave for a while, then tap out using a bit of wood, take care with the rubbers, unless you intend to replace them.

Nick



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:23 pm 13th Post
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Xtracho



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Thanks Nick!


:waving:



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 02:07 pm 14th Post
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Rudy



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Years ago, I bought a small 2 oz tub of Down-Corning High Vacuum Silicon Grease at Sperry surplus in Phoenix (tells ya how long ago that was).

I still have that tub and use it for this purpose.
I can pull the calipers off and the grease is still there and still just as viscose.

These other solutions sound like they would work well.




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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 02:46 pm 15th Post
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jimsjinx



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Funny you brought this up,EXAVID. I needed front pads badly last year. I got some EBC's and went to work. I had a heck of a time trying to remove the pins on the left side. They were LOCKED with crud. Finally, after breaking all my cheap "EasyOuts", I borrowed a set from a buddy made for Craftsman. Lucky for me I got them out. I replaced with new pins, lubed them well with lithium grease and made sure the sleeves were buffed with a soft wire wheel. This season, I have noticed a dragging or grinding sound coming from that same side. A check of everything showed all was ok. Do you think my rotor is at it's service limit or something? It only happens once and a while, and goes away if I "feather" the brake pedal and use the right brake lever just a tad more than usual. Sorry to interrupt the thread. Merry Christmas, jimsjinx:?

Last edited on Mon Dec 6th, 2010 02:48 pm by jimsjinx



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 04:49 pm 16th Post
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jimsjinx wrote: Funny you brought this up,EXAVID. I needed front pads badly last year. I got some EBC's and went to work. I had a heck of a time trying to remove the pins on the left side. They were LOCKED with crud. Finally, after breaking all my cheap "EasyOuts", I borrowed a set from a buddy made for Craftsman. Lucky for me I got them out. I replaced with new pins, lubed them well with lithium grease and made sure the sleeves were buffed with a soft wire wheel. This season, I have noticed a dragging or grinding sound coming from that same side. A check of everything showed all was ok. Do you think my rotor is at it's service limit or something? It only happens once and a while, and goes away if I "feather" the brake pedal and use the right brake lever just a tad more than usual. Sorry to interrupt the thread. Merry Christmas, jimsjinx:?
The feathering your pedal is indicative of a sticking bolt or the pressure release hole in the master cyl being clogged not allowing the pistons to release the pads, which would heat up the rotor/disc. next time out check the rotor if its heated up or put on c-stand. spin wheel(s) to make certain they are free, no dragging. Then feather your pedal and recheck. If not free you know the m/c is the problem. If free, its the pins or if not then the caliper is sticking and needs a rebuild or cleaning at least.:byebye:



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 06:14 pm 17th Post
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jimsjinx
Lithium grease is not a good grease for the slide pins. I would remove the caliper and grease with the proper stuff.

Your rotor has Min thickness stamped on it, get a micrometer or vernier and measure it to be sure.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 06:45 pm 18th Post
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I've always used Never Seize..



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 06:45 pm 19th Post
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exavid



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Any chance the spring clip under the pads might have gotten inserted wrong?



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 Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 07:38 pm 20th Post
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jimsjinx



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Ok, sounds like it's coffee and a look-see tonight after supper. I'll look at all this stuff. I'll report what I may find. Thanks, Jim PS... It feels/sounds exactly like it did when the pads were worn out the last time, only this time, the pads are less than halfway worn to the wear indicator.



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