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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Goldwing Technical Forum > Better grease for caliper sleeves |
| Better grease for caliper sleeves | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page: 1 2 |
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| Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 07:16 pm | 1st Post |
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For anyone reworking calipers an important bit of maintenance is to remove the caliper mounting sleeve and clean it and the caliper mount bore. Water often gets past the rubber seals and shortly after the sleeve freezes in the caliper and a dragging or locking brake results. I'd been using boat trailer wheel bearing grease for lubing the outside of the sleeve due to its waterproof qualities. Problem with that is the stuff comes in pretty large containers which sit on the shelf for ages drying out. A better grease I'm using now is plumber's grease. It comes in a small tube for a buck and a half or so, plenty to do a bunch of calipers. It's the stuff compounded for lubricating the working parts of sink faucets and such that are in intimate conctact with flowing water. Good stuff for a caliper sleeve too since it's ideal to protect from water caused corrosion. Not to mention for around the house plumbing.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 07:41 pm | 2nd Post |
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I use Permatex Silicone Brake Grease. A $18 tub will last a long time and does not brake down. It is designed for this application unlike Wheel bearing and plumbers grease. http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Disc_Brake_Caliper_Lube_Hi-Temp_Silicone_Formula.htm Last edited on Sun Dec 5th, 2010 07:46 pm by Cal-D ____________________ "Have Wing Will Travel" |
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| Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 08:30 pm | 3rd Post |
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Sounds like good stuff. Doubtless superior in high temp use however I've never seen much indication that the caliper mounts on the 'Wing brakes heat up to high temps. Never seen any burned grease. I like to use cheap stuff when it will do the job so personally prefer the less than two bucks stuff over the less than twenty buck kind. Now if you lived next door I probably would stop over for a finger full of the silicon stuff.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 09:24 pm | 4th Post |
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If Plumbers lube is used on taps/ faucets then they are by nautre used on hot tapes. Now my hot tap can get very hot around the collar area where the lube is used. Doubtless as hot as the caliper areas you refer to. By that logic then the plumbers lube will work very well in the areas you have tried. I have up to now been using copper spray in these areas but on next rebuild I will give this some thought when re assembeling. Cheers Andy
____________________ keep the old girl on the road 1980 gl1100 A canadian import. |
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| Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 09:26 pm | 5th Post |
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I've been using the CNC brake grease they sell at the auto parts stores...I think I paid about $4.
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| Posted: Sun Dec 5th, 2010 10:24 pm | 6th Post |
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I've got some lube that comes in a small bottle that I use around the swimming pool parts. I use it when lubing the bearing for the pump. It is a blue grease. Might be the same stuff exavid is using.
____________________ Larry "Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former" -- Albert Einstein I'm sure you believe you understand what you think I said but I'm not sure you realize that what you think you heard is not what I meant.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:12 am | 7th Post |
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ive used a synthetic brake greese on my bikes and cars it works great
____________________ Bentoy1 |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:38 am | 8th Post |
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The main thing is that those mounting sleeves get some attention, we've had several members have brake problems due to the sleeves becoming frozen. There are two things that often cause brake problems on these bikes, stuck sleeves and a plugged inlet port in master cylinders.
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 04:22 am | 9th Post |
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I have been using silcone brake grease on my Bikes and cars for 10 years now, it lasts much longer than other types of grease. In fact sat in the house yesterday watching my youngest, service his brakes on his toyota MR 2, I did help honest I took him a warm drink, at -3 he was on his own. Nick
____________________ 1982 1100DC 38,000 miles |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 12:33 pm | 10th Post |
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I have been using the Permatex for years. It does not "wash out" like others I've seen. That $18 jar has lasted me about 2 years and has done well over 50 brake jobs, so cost is probably less than $0.50 per. Last edited on Mon Dec 6th, 2010 12:36 pm by Cal-D ____________________ "Have Wing Will Travel" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:08 pm | 11th Post |
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OK....are we talking about the mounting bolt, pin bolt, or both? Would like to know. And do you just tap the sleeve out? A little how-to guidance would be appreciated as my rear is dragging (squealing) after putting on new pads. Thanks!
____________________ Mark 1984 GL 1200 Aspencade "To live you must be willing to die" Amir Vahedi My father gets smarter everyday that he's gone. "I worried that I had no shoes until I saw a man that had no feet" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:14 pm | 12th Post |
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Hi Mark, dose with WD40, leave for a while, then tap out using a bit of wood, take care with the rubbers, unless you intend to replace them. Nick
____________________ 1982 1100DC 38,000 miles |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 01:23 pm | 13th Post |
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Thanks Nick!
____________________ Mark 1984 GL 1200 Aspencade "To live you must be willing to die" Amir Vahedi My father gets smarter everyday that he's gone. "I worried that I had no shoes until I saw a man that had no feet" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 02:07 pm | 14th Post |
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Years ago, I bought a small 2 oz tub of Down-Corning High Vacuum Silicon Grease at Sperry surplus in Phoenix (tells ya how long ago that was). I still have that tub and use it for this purpose. I can pull the calipers off and the grease is still there and still just as viscose. These other solutions sound like they would work well.
____________________ Rudy RudysProducts Info: We are back! Production time is currently 1-3 business days for all in-stock items. RudysBackyard.com Info: RudysBackyard.com will cease to exist on 5/30/2012 when the domain name expires. Plastic repairs are almost always unique to the shape, location and problem. If you want useful help deciding on the best approach for a specific repair, please include sharp photos. Without these, it is difficult to advise the best way to make repairs. Dorksider # 1 |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 02:46 pm | 15th Post |
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Funny you brought this up,EXAVID. I needed front pads badly last year. I got some EBC's and went to work. I had a heck of a time trying to remove the pins on the left side. They were LOCKED with crud. Finally, after breaking all my cheap "EasyOuts", I borrowed a set from a buddy made for Craftsman. Lucky for me I got them out. I replaced with new pins, lubed them well with lithium grease and made sure the sleeves were buffed with a soft wire wheel. This season, I have noticed a dragging or grinding sound coming from that same side. A check of everything showed all was ok. Do you think my rotor is at it's service limit or something? It only happens once and a while, and goes away if I "feather" the brake pedal and use the right brake lever just a tad more than usual. Sorry to interrupt the thread. Merry Christmas, jimsjinx Last edited on Mon Dec 6th, 2010 02:48 pm by jimsjinx ____________________ "We are put here, to take care of each other" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 04:49 pm | 16th Post |
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jimsjinx wrote: Funny you brought this up,EXAVID. I needed front pads badly last year. I got some EBC's and went to work. I had a heck of a time trying to remove the pins on the left side. They were LOCKED with crud. Finally, after breaking all my cheap "EasyOuts", I borrowed a set from a buddy made for Craftsman. Lucky for me I got them out. I replaced with new pins, lubed them well with lithium grease and made sure the sleeves were buffed with a soft wire wheel. This season, I have noticed a dragging or grinding sound coming from that same side. A check of everything showed all was ok. Do you think my rotor is at it's service limit or something? It only happens once and a while, and goes away if I "feather" the brake pedal and use the right brake lever just a tad more than usual. Sorry to interrupt the thread. Merry Christmas, jimsjinx The feathering your pedal is indicative of a sticking bolt or the pressure release hole in the master cyl being clogged not allowing the pistons to release the pads, which would heat up the rotor/disc. next time out check the rotor if its heated up or put on c-stand. spin wheel(s) to make certain they are free, no dragging. Then feather your pedal and recheck. If not free you know the m/c is the problem. If free, its the pins or if not then the caliper is sticking and needs a rebuild or cleaning at least.
____________________ Stu John 14:6 CMA Wings of Eagles-Escondido CA SAN DIEGO Patriot Guard Ryder 1999 GL1500 SE(@57k) The LORD provided this through a friend's wish to leave it to me I'm blown away! Dan beat me there and is enjoying the real Heaven. Remember to be there for your friends and thank them for being your friend. Previous bikes 1983 ASPENCADE(Barn find) bought 7/08 & restored from 13 yr neglect by po @ 35,595mi, now given to a pastor to enjoy the blessings @ 62,000 25 Yrs. of Abstinance(no bike) - Raising kids, now a PA PA 76 CB750K(new) w/Golden Lab Cody, rode w/me 35k miles & 5 times X country in 3 yrs sold @ 45k 75 CB750K(new) 9,000 mi http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/MC-Dispatch/Royce-Thiessen-Honda-CB750.aspx 74 CB450(new) 9,000 mi first yrhttp://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_cb_450_disc_1974.php |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 06:14 pm | 17th Post |
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jimsjinx Lithium grease is not a good grease for the slide pins. I would remove the caliper and grease with the proper stuff. Your rotor has Min thickness stamped on it, get a micrometer or vernier and measure it to be sure.
____________________ "Have Wing Will Travel" |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 06:45 pm | 18th Post |
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I've always used Never Seize..
____________________ One day you will no longer be the big dog... just the old dog.... and it's nice to be surrounded by friends previous bikes 74 550-4 73 500=4 75 GL1000 |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 06:45 pm | 19th Post |
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Any chance the spring clip under the pads might have gotten inserted wrong?
____________________ If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother? 2001 Goldwing 1800 Paul W. |
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| Posted: Mon Dec 6th, 2010 07:38 pm | 20th Post |
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Ok, sounds like it's coffee and a look-see tonight after supper. I'll look at all this stuff. I'll report what I may find. Thanks, Jim PS... It feels/sounds exactly like it did when the pads were worn out the last time, only this time, the pads are less than halfway worn to the wear indicator.
____________________ "We are put here, to take care of each other" |
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