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Tire Pressure Advice  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:06 am 1st Post
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99winger



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Ok... on the TRIKE... the back tires (which are like car tires) say the MAX. tire pressure (on the tire wall) is 44 PSI.  The Front Tire (BridgeStone G851) says MAX. Tire Pressure is 42 PSI (again on the side-wall)..... seems like alot for even  a heavy m-cycle.  I only put 35 in the car tires on my Toyota!  Was using 30 Front/ 25 Rear !!!

 

Am I confusing things?   What should I be using in the two diff. styles of tires on the Goldwing Trike?

Last edited on Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:08 am by 99winger



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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:25 am 2nd Post
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Wolfman



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Max pressure is for maximum load capacity for the tires.   Since you are nowhere near the max load, you can comfortably reduce the tire pressure.

 

Regarding mixing tires, your only concern is that the two tires on the rear axle are similar to each other.   The front is completely independant from the rear. 

 

 

Last edited on Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:26 am by Wolfman



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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:27 am 3rd Post
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jdvorchak



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You can probably go as low as 25 on the rear and 32 on the front. What ever the manual says for the front is a good place to start.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:40 am 4th Post
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Doubleeyes



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We run 20 psi in the rear and 41 psi in the front of our

GL1500 MotorTrike.

 

No need to run more than 25 psi in the rear. Anymore than that and you will wear the center of the tread out.

 

We have over twentyfive thousand miles on the  tires.

The front is about 75% gone and the rears about 50%

 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:46 am 5th Post
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99winger



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You all are pretty much confirming my expectations.... any other comments?



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"Never Ride Faster Than Your Guardian Angel Can Fly." I don't want to change my account name... but I'm now riding a '09 GW w/ CSC Trike.

Previously Owned: '93 Goldwing Trike; '05 1800ABS ; '99 GL1500SE Goldwing; '05 Honda VTX1300R; '02 Honda Shadow 750 Classic; '78 CB500; Late 60's Triumph 500 & 650.
 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:46 am 6th Post
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Gofastandfalldown

 

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Doubleeyes wrote:
No need to run more than 25 psi in the rear. Anymore than that and you will wear the center of the tread out.

 

Good advice.  The best indicator will be tire wear, and only time and miles will tell you how close you are with you pressures.

 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 01:48 am 7th Post
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99winger



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Gotta love this website/forum!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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"Never Ride Faster Than Your Guardian Angel Can Fly." I don't want to change my account name... but I'm now riding a '09 GW w/ CSC Trike.

Previously Owned: '93 Goldwing Trike; '05 1800ABS ; '99 GL1500SE Goldwing; '05 Honda VTX1300R; '02 Honda Shadow 750 Classic; '78 CB500; Late 60's Triumph 500 & 650.
 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 04:49 am 8th Post
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Bike...and Dennis



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Most people run higher pressure in motorcycle tires because it lightens the handling. That won't apply here. However, there may be wear issues such as severe cupping if you reduce the pressure too much.

For the car tires, I agree with the others here and suspect lower pressure are called for.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 11:36 am 9th Post
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96aspencade



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I have been teaching Skid Control/Emergency Vehicle Handling (including Security forces Training) at my own school for the past 30+ years. Tire air pressure is a daily topic in our classes and on the skid pad. I go through a set of tires (Goodyear) every week. We run and preach MAX air pressure 100% of the time in all highway tires.
Lower air pressure is sufficient under "normal" operating conditions. Under "Emergency" operating conditions the vehicle dynamics, weight transferring forces  and physics can and will push your tires far beyond the recommended load limit momentarily during heavy braking/steering maneuvers. Many loss of control situations are caused by a tire popping off a rim because of low air pressure.
My tires at MAX pressure wear evenly across the total tread surface. Max pressure is not "Over inflation".
Stiffer sidewalls result in better steering/braking/longer wear/less fuel consumption & "safety" from better handling.
You and your vehicle/tires must be prepared for an emergency situation 100% of the time.
We tell out classes "You can live without MAX Tire Pressure - but if your life(or someone elses ) is on the line, your odds are better if your tires are ready for Maximum forces.
"ALL" my tires are at MAX pressure 100% of the time.
Ride Safe. :action::action::action:

Last edited on Sat Jan 29th, 2011 11:43 am by 96aspencade



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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 12:12 pm 10th Post
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Dusty Boots



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I used to run my front E3 at 40 PSI and I would typically get ~ 32,000km/19,900mi to a tire.

I have since bumped that up to 42PSI and my current E3 I have on now has exactly 45,394km/28,208mi on it, although I am now getting down to the wear bars showing.

Keep those tire pressures up and you'll be rewarded with crisper handling, greater fuel economy and a cooler running, longer lasting(mileage) tire.

I have found no discernible difference in the ride quality, between the tire run at 37PSI and that run at 42PSI.

 

Dusty



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 Posted: Sat Jan 29th, 2011 06:25 pm 11th Post
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grambo



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max pressure will feel like cement tires...30's in the rear and 36 on a very good(i hope!) front peice o' rubber.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 01:23 am 12th Post
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myrwon



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Dunlop told dealer to run 41psi front & 46psi rear.....Anyone have good luck with these numbers? Looking for good grip and long tire life



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 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 03:01 am 13th Post
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exavid



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I agree with 96Aspencade. Tire pressure recommendations on cars and bikes for that matter are usually listed for 'comfort' or the smoothest possible ride which is the minimum safe operating pressure. The maximum load pressure is where I always run my vehicles.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 05:26 am 14th Post
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newday777



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I concur, 41-42 frt/44-45 rear. Checking every other week at most is a must do! I have in the past not done so and have had delaminations on Metzler rears. Saw one let go last week on another wing and he didn't keep a close watch on the pressure, was down to 25 when I checked it. If you don't keep a close eye on the tire pressures, you get delams and cupping. Your choice. Only you can prevent forest fi..., no, no wait, cupping, delams, bad wear on your tires!:lash: 

These wings weigh in bountiful for the tires we have available to us, and given the stresses put on them being maxed out with weight and hard starts and stops, twisties ect.


This set of E3s, I put in Ride-on sealant/balancer(on 11/10) and no pressure loss so far, been checking every other week. Very smooth ride too. It seals up to 1/4"  punctures as well as balances as you drive, stays fluid until it leaks out. Not the same as slime, as it washes out of the rim at time of retire.

Last edited on Sun Jan 30th, 2011 05:43 am by newday777



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 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 07:55 am 15th Post
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on a non-trike of course 41 rear always but me 36 in front...a trike prob run mid/upper 30's on 2 rears for a smother ride...you can ussually get familiar with a tire  holding air
integrity if its a new slow leaker ..or if it holds pressure good you will know that too over the first couple of weeks time! and know your level of confidence

Last edited on Sun Jan 30th, 2011 08:02 am by grambo



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 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 04:13 pm 16th Post
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The bottom line is do you want COMFORT or SAFETY. For comfort you can generally lower the pressure below max but for safety I agree with 96aspencade set them at max.

 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 05:13 pm 17th Post
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For Motorcycle tires I get the best mileage by what the tire says and for trike tires on the rear I think low 30's would be best

Last edited on Sun Jan 30th, 2011 05:14 pm by AlsGoldWing



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 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 09:15 pm 18th Post
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Gofastandfalldown

 

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exavid wrote:  The maximum load pressure is where I always run my vehicles.
I think we are talking about 2 different numbers here.  There is the "pressure at maximum vehicle load" and the "maximum design tire pressure".

 Posted: Sun Jan 30th, 2011 09:27 pm 19th Post
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96aspencade



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Gofastandfalldown wrote: exavid wrote:  The maximum load pressure is where I always run my vehicles.
I think we are talking about 2 different numbers here.  There is the "pressure at maximum vehicle load" and the "maximum design tire pressure".
What is "Pressure @ Max Load" and Max design tire pressure never heard of them?
I am referring to "Max Pressure for Max load capacity" indicated on the sidewall.
Thanks :byebye:



____________________
Retired Paramedic - 35 years.
If I"m riding - life is good ......Never had a bad" day riding...Just some better than others!!
Double Darksider # 1138 - with Dynabeads
30,000 miles from my Formosa,
'96 GL 1500 SE - 220,000 km.... (8,000 km 2011 year) - Goodyear Assurance
'84 Shadow VT 750c - 32,000 km ( 14,000 km 2011 year) - BF Goodrich Radial TA
'90 Suzuki Intruder 750 - 88,000 km .... (Gone)
'85 GL 1200 Aspencade - 185,000 km (Gone)
'83 Shadow 500 ( Gone)
'70 Kawasaki KE-125 (Gone)
'?? Suzuki 80 ( Gone)

2010 Alps tour pic's
http://s752.photobucket.com/albums/xx164/96se/Alps_2010/

Spot Tracker "http://www.spotadventures.com/trip/view?trip_id=225807">Alps

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 Posted: Mon Jan 31st, 2011 02:33 pm 20th Post
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Rudy



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99winger wrote: You all are pretty much confirming my expectations.... any other comments?
For flat faced tires like my car tire and the trailer tires, make a wide chalk line across the width of the tire tread and run it around the block loaded.  When you get it to where the chalk line is gone, you are at the right pressure for that tire at that load, at that ambient temp.




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