| My 1982 GL1100i refresh | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page:   1 2 3 4   |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30th, 2012 04:11 pm | 41st Post |
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It's looking good all the way down to the frame, keep up the great work and it will get back together. Just take your time and enjoy your project it will be well rewarded when finished and you will be proud of your new bike while riding it.
____________________ Dave Ride Safe and Ride Often, Keep the Shiny Side up and Many Happy Miles and Smiles. "In God We Trust" All Others Must pay Cash!!! Current Goldwing 2010 Gl1800 Trike Other Rides 1985 Goldwing Aspencade Blue - Sold 2006 Harley Davidson Sportster - Sold 2006 Goldwing Navi - Sold 2007 Honda Rebel 250cc 2007 Honda 110cc 1985 1200cc Goldwing Aspencade Beige 1994 1500cc Goldwing Interstate Black 2010 1800cc Goldwing Trike Red |
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30th, 2012 08:02 pm | 42nd Post |
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 Let me jump in here for a second. When I pulled the engine from my 1980 1100, I read the instructions too quickly and did not see the part about removing a piece of the frame. I worked for hours wriggling that engine out. Afterward, I did not know whether to laugh or cry at myself. Now I read everything over at least twice and take my time. Gavin
____________________ Gavin K-M |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 12:18 am | 43rd Post |
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Firebrick, We are in the same process. I started my link in the general discussion forum under "my 82 interstate wants to look good again" Maybe I should have it moved to the technical forum? Anyway, check out the pics I have posted on the frame. Check these areas with a chipping hammer, or hammer and punch. If the frame is rusted, it won't take much effort to punch through. Keep up the good work. The way I see it, there is no use having part of the bike redone. You are far enough along to do it right.
____________________ You need to endure the hard times to appreciate the good ones. |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 12:39 am | 44th Post |
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Next thing I will do is take some degreaser and wipe down the frame parts, looking for rust. Then Ill treat what I can with por15, wax it and start the reassembly process. It will be slow going back together because ill be cleaning everything, including the bolts and hardware. Is there anything on the frame that I need to do besides clean? Anything need grease?
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 12:41 am | 45th Post |
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Also I didnt take the fork tube holder off the frame, whats the name? Triple tree? Didnt see any tutorial on how to remove it and it seems to move smoothly from side to side. Anything I need to do to it?
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 01:47 pm | 46th Post |
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Firerbrick one way to fix the plastic parts is to get some PVC all purpose glue and a roll of roofing tape and layer it like your doing fiberglass and if you have a crack put some plastic shavings in there to fill it up . The reason the fairing is like that is the front brake master cylinder was leaking and the fluid just east the plastic . Now on to the exhaust the best thing to do it to go and find some Harley touring mufflers off of EBay you can pick them up cheap . Then cut the bad exhausts off at the end of the muffler you will need to find a small bit of pipe to go from the header to the muffler . Its what most of have done and its the cheapest way to go . Thats all i can think of for now
____________________ hi im gary and i suffer from MBS [multiply bike syndrome] once you have one bike you need more than one and i need help getting more |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 01:54 pm | 47th Post |
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If im thinking right and por15 is a tank sealer don't use it as it will block the fuel pick up . There are so many ways to clean the tank clean it with murradic acid or use electric or vinegar and toilet bowl cleaner to name a few
____________________ hi im gary and i suffer from MBS [multiply bike syndrome] once you have one bike you need more than one and i need help getting more |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 02:32 pm | 48th Post |
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No the por15 I have is a rust converter usually used on frames and metal. I would just be using it in the frame sections that have rust to keep it from spreading.
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 03:54 pm | 49th Post |
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Just a heads up on the por15, you may want to be careful depending on where you use it on the frame. The instructions say it doesn't do well with UV light. I used it on a balcony railing and after a few months it started turning a pinkish red. I redid it and coated over with some black rustoleum and haven't had a problem since, but just something to keep in mind. There's also some rust inhibitor stuff you can get at autozone (made by rustoleum I think) that you sand down the metal and put it on. It looks like thin elmer's glue. It chemically bonds with the rust making it a hard black material, then you can paint over it. Stuf works like magic. Last edited on Tue Jan 31st, 2012 03:56 pm by blackknytecnc ____________________ "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." _ Ben Franklin "Oops, that wasn't suppose to happen" _ Kevin (me) |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 03:56 pm | 50th Post |
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Not wanting to disagree with Britman but I would stay away from PVC cement and use ABS cement. that is the type of plastic the parts are made from. My plastic was busted up the same as yours and thats what I used to fix it and it worked great, Here are a few pics how I did it.  I ground out the cracks to leave a trough for the glue.  Aplly the glue heavier than what you think it needs, this way you can sand it own smooth and wont need to use any body filler.  I used the silver speed tape you see in the above pic as a back up on the inside to hold the glue from seeping out . Once the glue was dry I removed it. Here it is sanded down and ready for primer.  You can see were the glue is in the above pics. It looks like the crack is still there but it isnt. Its perfectly smooth. For the hole in the bottom of the fairing I patched the same way, I glued the pieces back together into the fairing and then I reinforced the inside with a piece of ABS plasic pipe that I cut , heated flat and cemented it in.
____________________ 1982 GL1100 1980 Honda CM400 1979 Yamaha XS750 Special ( project) |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 04:02 pm | 51st Post |
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Wow great work on that plastic!
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 04:05 pm | 52nd Post |
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Thanks, I was happy with how it turned out. Also if you decide to go with Harley mufflers as Britman suggested , I have two sets of brand new ones. I could post a pic of them if youd like.
____________________ 1982 GL1100 1980 Honda CM400 1979 Yamaha XS750 Special ( project) |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 04:23 pm | 53rd Post |
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Sure. How hard is it to modify the exhaust to work?
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 04:33 pm | 54th Post |
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Its not to hard, do a search here on the forum about it and you will find some good threads. I was going to do it on mine ,thats why I have the mufflers. But luckily I found a real nice complete exhaust on ebay. Here they are.  
____________________ 1982 GL1100 1980 Honda CM400 1979 Yamaha XS750 Special ( project) |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2012 04:56 pm | 55th Post |
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I am also looking at a complete exhaust from a forum member. Probably be the easier way for me to go.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 1st, 2012 03:58 am | 56th Post |
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Ginsco your right om the glue . I was wrong
____________________ hi im gary and i suffer from MBS [multiply bike syndrome] once you have one bike you need more than one and i need help getting more |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 3rd, 2012 11:26 pm | 57th Post |
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Hi, They look so sad and lonely when all in pieces. I would put seals and bushings in the forks. Replace and adjust according to the manual the fork head bearings. Pack them with a good wheel bearing grease. I have a pair of outer races from them on my desk. There are definite marks in them where they had become "notchy." I believe they had been set too tight. It can be a bit of trial and error but start with the factory torque settings. Replace the timing belts. You will probably want to replace as many of the small rubber parts as you can locate replacements for, especially on the brake calipers. Clean, inspect and replace if necessary the wheel bearings. Pack them with a good grade of wheel bearing grease. Clean, inspect and replace if necessary the swing arm bearings. Good grease again. Wipe down the frame with a mild solvent to get rid of the accumulation of dirt that seems to not want to wash off with soap and water. Inspect every nook and cranny for rust. If you don't want to paint the entire frame, at least touch up the chips and scratches. I have been surprised at how nice a frame can look after a careful cleaning. The removable section of the frame has been known to rust. Check it carefully. The center stand can have two problems. One is rust in the stand and the supporting frame. The other is that the area where the stand contacts the stops will collapse some letting the bike sit too low when on the stand. It is hard to get it on the stand and even harder to get it off the stand. The plastics are ABS. The cement is available at Home Depot and Ace Hardware around here. Clean up the area needing repair. I use a Dremel tool to make a groove on the back of the damage and to drill small stop holes at the end of cracks. Then fill the groove with ABS cement. I add some ABS shaving to the cement to make a thicker mix so it fills better. If you are careful and work from the back or hidden side of the damage you can get by without having to paint much if at all. If it was idling well, I would wait until it was back together before disturbing the carburetors. I'm lazy and don't like "make work." If the carburetors work well leave them alone. Inspect the outside of the tank, especially the bottom for rust that goes all the way through. I used toilet bowl cleaner to remove a light rust from a gas tank. I have heard too many horror stories about tank liners and such to trust them. If you keep the tank full when the bike isn't being ridden you won't have rust problems. As an aside, a 1200 tank won't fit your 1100 and vise versa. Use the proper torque values on bolts where it is specified. On others use a table of common torque values for other fasteners. It looks like a great winter project. How did you get your wife to let you rebuild the bike in the living room? Have fun,
____________________ Lyle, President of the Use Punctuation, Paragraphs, Capitals and Non Use of Acronyms Club. |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 3rd, 2012 11:41 pm | 58th Post |
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With the steering head, where do I get the tool to take that nut off?
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| Posted: Sat Feb 4th, 2012 12:58 am | 59th Post |
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If it's the same as the 1200, you can make one. There was thread about that a while ago, I followed it and it worked pretty well.
____________________ "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." _ Ben Franklin "Oops, that wasn't suppose to happen" _ Kevin (me) |
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| Posted: Sun Feb 19th, 2012 01:53 pm | 60th Post |
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I haven't been able to fight that steering stem nut off. It is on there really tight. My last option is buying one from like ron ayers but they are over $50 just for that one socket!!
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