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86 GL 1200I will not start  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2012 01:48 pm 61st Post
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upsbill



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I take it that I have to remove the carbs to see the number, because I can't see it. The only thing I removed so far is the heads. I was hoping to just repair the valves. I was wondering if it would be possible to leave the pistons even though they have dings on them and just replace both gaskets. Maybe that will fix the zero compression issue. If not then I can remove my newly rebuilt heads and replace or rebuild the motor. It will take some time.

 Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2012 02:15 pm 62nd Post
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glhonda



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Bike...and Dennis wrote:  Now, parts are not available, not even used, and no working mechanic even knows what the machine is.

I've just been informed by Dennis that I no longer understand fuel injection. And I was doing so well........:sadguy:



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 Posted: Fri Feb 10th, 2012 02:56 am 63rd Post
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upsbill



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I ordered the left and right side for $150, shipping included. I hope the parts will be here in time for next weekend. Is there anything I need to do to prep the valve assy?

 Posted: Fri Feb 10th, 2012 05:05 am 64th Post
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Shooter



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I'll admit to not having the best vision so I looked at the photo's again.  I can't see any obvious damage to your pistons.  The small dished portions are cut-outs in the piston dome, they're there for valve clearance.  FROM THE FACTORY

 

  Just like on many small block Chevy engines, the dished portions are put on bothe sides of the piston face so the piston can be installed on the left or right bank of cylinders.                            :gunhead:



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 Posted: Fri Feb 10th, 2012 10:36 am 65th Post
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rideandslidejim



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Thanks Shooter--- That's what i was thinking when i asked my unansered question. They looked too machined to be from hitting the valves, plus i didn't think 1200 had 4 valves per cyl. ?? :?

Glad to see you are making progress upsbill

Jim

Last edited on Fri Feb 10th, 2012 03:10 pm by rideandslidejim



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 Posted: Fri Feb 10th, 2012 12:41 pm 66th Post
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Bellboy40



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What's all this talk about the 85-86 fuel injection being so troublesome?  I rode a 85 LTD from the showroom and for 25 years afterwards with no problems whatsoever with the fuel injection.  Unusual? Maybe so but on a technical forum you will hear about the people who had trouble and not the vast majority who had none at all.  Also I would venture a guess that a lot of the troubles were brought on by improper maintenance or somebody working on it that did not know what they were doing.  Mine never failed to operate perfectly all the time I owned it.

Not flaming anybody or trying to start an argument.... just stating my experience with one.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 11th, 2012 08:43 pm 67th Post
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upsbill



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@ Shooter - you're right the marks on the pistons are factory made. I rotated the crank several rotations and put back to TDC on #1 the pistons moved smoothly. There is a little oil around the cyclinders where the pistons slide, so probably will need new rings, but I will wait to get the heads on and hope to be running again. Then take the bike to Vegas to have the carbs synced.

 Posted: Sat Feb 11th, 2012 08:54 pm 68th Post
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DaveO430



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Bellboy40 wrote:   Also I would venture a guess that a lot of the troubles were brought on by improper maintenance or somebody working on it that did not know what they were doing.  Mine never failed to operate perfectly all the time I owned it.



Also letting them sit for extended periods (years). That is the biggest problem with most of these old wings. If they had been ridden regularly they wouldn't have near the problems.



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 Posted: Sat Feb 11th, 2012 09:21 pm 69th Post
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upsbill



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It will be ridden. I have been planning trips and I haven't got the bike fully operational yet.

 Posted: Sat Feb 11th, 2012 10:53 pm 70th Post
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Ken Bergen

 

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upsbill wrote: I ordered the left and right side for $150, shipping included. I hope the parts will be here in time for next weekend. Is there anything I need to do to prep the valve assy?I hope you didn't buy something like this one I found on Evil-Bay.:shock:

Also the #1 piston intake valve cutout and #3 piston exhaust valve cutout need some work to avoid valve collisions as aluminum has been mushroomed into the cutouts.

Attachment: gl1200-head.jpeg (Downloaded 57 times)



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 Posted: Sat Feb 11th, 2012 11:18 pm 71st Post
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upsbill



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I will find out next week when they arrive. At least the guy said take a look at them, if they are acceptable then I can pay him, if not send them back.

 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 07:15 pm 72nd Post
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upsbill



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I got the heads back from the machine shop. He stated that they left the cam assy loose so that I set the timing before tighten screws. I found out that the left and right cam have diff part #'s from online. I noticed that the 2 spare cams have have 3 stamps.
1. H, MG9.L, R2
2. D, MG9.L, R2
With the pully guide pins facing up on the cams, the lobes are the same and there is a diff part # for left and right cam. Not sure if the lobes face diff for each side.
My question: Is it possible that the tech placed 2 left or 2 right cams for each side, instead of 1 left and 1 right?
My task today is to remove the cams and check for markings and see if all 4 cams have the same markings.
Anyone out there that is familiar with this?
Thanks.

 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 08:03 pm 73rd Post
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upsbill



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OK -I took off the cams from the resurfaced heads and this is what they show.
Left - C, MG9.R, R1
Right - E, MG9.R, R1

My guess is:
MG9 R - is for the right side
MG9 L - is for the left side

Is there anyone that knows for sure before I install these and turn on the engine. Don't want to blow up another set.

The lobes on the MG9-R match the MG9-L so it looks like it doesn't matter. IDK

If anyone has any insight on the matter let me know.

Thanks

 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 08:05 pm 74th Post
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Ken Bergen

 

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upsbill wrote: He stated that they left the cam assy loose so that I set the timing before tighten screws. Big Red Flag.

1: If the camshafts bind when the bolts are tightened then the holder doesn't match the head and that must be corrected or damage will result.

2: The lash adjusters must be checked for correct shimming after any work on the heads and valves and the holders must be tightened to do so.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 08:15 pm 75th Post
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upsbill



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So I should be able to rotate the cam with the head assy off the engine and see the rocker arms move. Should it be tight or an easy spin while rotating. I was hoping that since I spent 200 for the resurface that it would be ready to install, not verify anything. What fun.
Thanks, I'll go check know.

 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 08:28 pm 76th Post
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Ken Bergen

 

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They should turn easily until a lobe contacts a rocker.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 11:36 pm 77th Post
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upsbill



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@ Ken Do you think that the markings - MG9L and MG9R indicate left and right side?

 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2012 11:45 pm 78th Post
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Ken Bergen

 

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upsbill wrote: @ Ken Do you think that the markings - MG9L and MG9R indicate left and right side?I really don't know but I believe that they are identical except for the position of the key way for the pulley.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 16th, 2012 11:55 pm 79th Post
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upsbill



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I put the heads on and set timing TDC #1 (Placed a skinny screwdriver in the plug hole and checked the position of the piston" before putting on the belts and trying to start. The compression reads ~120 on all 4. Now there is water leaking from the head gasket. So I need to remove the heads again and check the gasket for any tears.

Bill

 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2012 03:06 pm 80th Post
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BobbydSp



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My heavens, upsbill. The engine not running and coolant under no pressure should not be leaking. Possibly a crack in head or block.
Bobby



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