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Poorboy Alternator Kit  Rating:  Rating  
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 Posted: Mon Mar 1st, 2010 12:20 am 141st Post
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roscoepc



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mieze245 wrote: LD Hack wrote:
tigger wrote: But I don't have a 1200 (and hopefully my stator won't die on me) so it doesn't help.

I installed the poorboy kit in to my GL1100. I had to modify the bracket that attaches the alternator to the fairing frame. The pulley and the lower alternator mount worked fine.



pics???


It's a 1200 but here's some pic's:

 

http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=7812



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Don
 Posted: Mon Mar 1st, 2010 12:28 am 142nd Post
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StrayDawg1



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Meaning no disrepect...Scooter7, I ride what others give up on! remember the days of HOT RODS! little shops and men with ideas took junk and set world speed records,case in point,watch the movie WORLDS FASTEST INDIAN...200 mph with modified 28 Scout...



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 Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2010 10:51 pm 143rd Post
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preachjohn



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Don Pigott's kit was on my 1984 GL1200A here in Calgary Alberta.
The man wrote me himself that it's a Gates Micro-V #30290/ 3 groove 29", which is here in Canada a Cdn. Tire Power Torque 290K3 (14-0802-0).
 



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PreachJohn

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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 03:34 am 144th Post
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The Shadow Knows



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 You can probably search Fleebay. Thats were i have found every LED bulb i've ever needed.FYI you may need to change your flasher relay to one designed for the low amperage pull of the LED's.... Just a thought



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:12 am 145th Post
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The Shadow Knows



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dan filipi wrote: The original wet battery is fine, it just accepts what it can. Maybe it wont last as long so rplace it later with one of the sealed batteries.

redneck wrote: just out of curiosity, if the alternater is high output, what about the standard battery on the bike, is is not to small to handle all the power going into it.

 

ed                                                                                                                                        

The Alternator is only going to put out as much amperage as needed to run the accesories and lights. it does not run at max output all of the time. only when needed. it knows what the battery will take as long as you are not charging at a rate more than 14.5



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 04:44 am 146th Post
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The Shadow Knows



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Scooter 7 wrote: Hi, I recalled seeing an article about this, and went and found it on seeing your post, so read, and decide the matter for yourself.

Some thing to consider, at least. Good luck & God bless.

Scott 

 

 

 

ABOUT EXTERNAL ALTERNATORS.

    Some well meaning mechanics have devised a plan to "save you from Hondas $800 stator change"
by inventing a kit to install a car alternator onto the front of the GL engine.
  An example of this is at :   http://www.icss.net/~squirts/stator.htm
  Looks like a good idea, eh?
  I read this page and the little red warning light went off in my head. "Somethings wrong."
  I then calculated the horsepower requrements for the GL1200 electrical system that sources up to 30 amp
of electrical current. Electrical power can be converted to an equivalent mechanical horsepower.
  Then, the power was compared to the charts for service limits on the GL1200 cam belts provided by Gates.
  The result? Depending on how much horsepower the cam takes, the addition of the alternator may
overload the cam belt and break it.
  The biggest problem is that the cam horsepower is very difficult to calculate, it requires profiling the
cam lobes and valve springs and using CALCULUS to find cam horsepower. Guessing isnt good enough.
This is even beyond a mechanical designers ability. Yes, I could calculate cam horsepower to the gnats
eyebrow, but Ive better things to do with a weeks worth of work. Im spending my time correcting the
original problems with the GL charging system.
  Once the cam power is calculated, it is added to the electrical horsepower and compared to the cam belt ratings.
  From my estimates of cam horsepower from engine speed and belt size based on Gates engineering data,
and calculations of electrical load, the timing belt may or will be overloaded when the engine speed is low.
  Notice on the web page link above, the Author and "inventor of the kit" uses OPINION, not calculations,
to "design" the system:
        "The pulley used in the plans is mounted externally, as I said, and is larger in diameter  to increase the
revolutions of the alternator pulley. I figure an increase of two-fold or so at the alternator pulley. While this
would be OK for a motorcycle mainly used for "around town", I think that most any 4 cylinder motorcycle
should provide enough rpm's at speed to keep the alternator at peak speed."
  These statements prove that there is no engineering knowledge nor even basic electrical calculations
behind this "design." It is a wrecked engine in the works.
  Also, from a quick inspection of the "plans," there is no seal installed in the cover to prevent water
from entering the cam belts, which WILL destroy them.
  Yes, this conversion looks like a good idea, but it plays on fear and finance to sell itself. We notice no
statements of individuals pushing these kits to take responsibility for your destroyed engine, no warranty
no statements on how to re-tension the cam belt for the additional load (which is required!), and the link
to the "professional" installation is "404" (web page has been removed.)
  The GL1200 stator is NOT that expensive nor that hard to change. It is much cheaper than a destroyed set
of valves and possibly a cracked piston.
  It's admirable that well meaning mechanics intend to conquer the GL charging problems, but mechanics
are not trained sufficiently to handle ENGINEERING work. Its best left to the engineers.
  There is also a possible risk in accident with that alternator hanging over the side of the engine. What happens
to the motorcycles trajectory if it goes over on the alternator side in an accident? Even I cannot answer that.
Do you want that alternator breaking off and tearing your face off in an accident? If the cycle goes down on
pavement on the alternator side and the alternator is broken off its mount, the movement of the pavement
will throw it backwards. YOU are then behind a 10 pound missile moving, at maximum, the speed of
the vehicle at the time of impact. The alternator, placed where it does not belong, will hit the pavement first
and if it breaks off, do YOU want a 10 pound weight hitting your body at upwards of 60 m.p.h.?
IT CAN KILL YOU. Is your life, or plastic surgery to reconstruct your face, worth $800?
  Just for fun, I calculated the force which a 10 pound weight moving at 30 m.p.h could place on a human head
if it forces the head back 6 inches. The force is about 1,244 pounds for a deceleration of 0.011 seconds.
  I consulted with an expert in the insurance industry with 40+ years who has seen all sorts of "freak" accidents.
He advises that the outboard alternator could even cause an accident when leaning the cycle hard in a turn
if it strikes the pavement, and that this could involve (legal) negligence on the part of the "inventor of the kit."
  Further, if the stock cycle goes down, it will tend to slide in a straight line forward, I've ridden them down to know.
With that alternator acting as a pivot point, what happens to the cycles trajectory? Does it slide straight,
cause the cycle to pivot, or to roll over on you?
  Vehicle ENGINEERS go to great trouble to design vehicles safely and one important point is to not attach
things that "poke out" from a moving vehicle. Even tires that protrude past fender wells are illegal in Ohio.
Adding an external alternator is not within the vehicles original design changes the vehicles design. Why risk it?
  There are lots of half-baked "kits" and "modifications" out there to all sorts of vehicles. You new guys to
"Goldwinging" have not seen the trail of such junk thats been left behind over the years. For example, the
nice shiny chrome brake and clutch master cylinder covers that warp and let water in to ruin the master cylinders.
Or the pretty chrome engine covers that overheat the engine and accelerate stator failure. The path is littered
with dozens of guys that have attempted to put "integrated communications systems" and CBs on that ended
up in the trash. Every one that have attempted that last one besides Hondas electronic OEMs and me have
failed.
  It takes serious engineering skill and a lot of testing to design modifications to vehicles. These things are NOT
within grasp of mechanics. Even I with major skill in electronics spent about 200 hours researching the Harness
before even making the first cut into the GL wiring harness. And a lot more hours than that before the first one
went on a customers Goldwing.




Someones got a bad case of verbal dhiarea. In all that crap, i saw no resolution to rectify or at least come up with an "equation" to rectify his version of a bad idea. It seems like he's got a lot of time on his hands. Maybe he can hookup with Don and come up with an engineering marval-or somthing. And remember Motorcycle techs. and especialy the guy who just wants to ride his bike again. we may not even be qualified to wash the bike or even put gas in it.........Talk Talk Talk.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 06:55 pm 147th Post
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exavid



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I don't know who wrote the above article but it sure shows the characteristics of a previous member who sold wiring harnesses for the GL1200s. There are some points in the diatribe but seems to me most of them are pretty overblown. The Poorboy modification has pretty well empirically proven itself not to cause major death and accidents among riders with the installation. Personally I like replacing the stator rather than the hang-on external alternator. But the point is either will work and neither seems likely to cause disaster. Worrying about where the external alternator is going to go in an accident is a bit specious, worrying about where the bike and rider are going to go seems more relevant.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:11 pm 148th Post
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roscoepc



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Paul, it was indeed written by the previous member that your thinking of because I read the same article on his website....

 

 

 

 

Last edited on Mon Aug 30th, 2010 07:13 pm by roscoepc



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Don
 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 09:29 pm 149th Post
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exavid



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You just can't forget the fellow's literary style.:cheeky1::cheeky1:



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 Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2010 09:47 pm 150th Post
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Ken Bergen

 

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The fellow that wrote that article does indeed have a bad case of verbal diarrhoea:cheeky1: but but he had not seen Don's Poorboy design only other designs that drove the alternator off the camshaft.

Ken



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Ken
 Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2010 06:15 am 151st Post
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exavid



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Wouldn't matter if he did see Don Piggot's design, he wouldn't have liked it. There was a lot of that old 'NIH' with him.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 01:48 pm 152nd Post
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dmays



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that is a sweet ride.....nice!



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 02:07 pm 153rd Post
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MSGT-R



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skoto1 wrote: how did i miss this heres mine diy. finding everything took longer than doing it. mines the 55 amp geo and puts out 67 amps at 3000? how?? i know i can't help it i lkie looking at it.:cheeky1:

So, did you replace the fairing lower, or does it too need modification?

 

icss.net/~squirts/stator.htm


 

Is this the same "Squirts" that has the homliest wing I've ever seen? :cool:

Last edited on Mon Sep 5th, 2011 02:18 pm by MSGT-R



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 02:21 pm 154th Post
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I was just reading this thread a few days ago, found it with search. I am definitely interested in the poorboy kit, even though my stator is still good, the rest of my charging system is a mess. Regulator runs at 300 degreesF, and is burning up the wiring.

Problem is, I have an LTD, which has an extra coolant line right in the way. This goes to the AIR valve. It also has cornering lights on the lower fairing which look like they night get in the way. I was told by someone that they had installed one on an LTD, but I cannot remember who now. My bike is a runner, so I am not concerned about looks, I just want a reliable charging system that won't set the bike on fire.

If you think the poorboy kit is expensive, check out the Dupli-Tech kit. Way more expensive, though it looks a bit nicer. But it still won't fit my LTD because of the cornering lights. I don't really need cornering lights, but I have mine wired up as daytime running lights, in effect I have 3 headlights. And I am a big believer in visibility.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 02:49 pm 155th Post
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Anouther thing to consider is you can buy a lifetime warrenty external alternator and if by chance your first external goes bad it takes just a few minits to reinstall a new one.Once you convert to an external you will never again have voltage supply issues.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 06:18 pm 156th Post
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The LED's work GREAT,they draw less amps than a normal light and they last longer...Look at a big rig,day or night. You can get them at a good price at most of the local truck stops. Or go to a truck chrome shop.  I get mine at T/A or Petro. Some auto parts stores carry them too.    Charlie G.

Last edited on Mon Sep 5th, 2011 06:20 pm by StrayDawg1



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 06:45 pm 157th Post
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I only found one small bit of truth in that article. First, the poorboy kit DOES NOT run off the cam belts, second, if you go down, I don't think that tiny little alternator is going to make the least bit of difference. The ONLY part that concerns me is that it does leave a hole in the timing belt cover that water could get through, but I drive my Pinto in the rain without the timing belt cover installed without any problems. It would need a drain hole to let the water drain out, otherwise it would stay in there, because Honda sealed up the covers so well.


I still find the instructions for the poorboy kit to be confusing, I wish they had a LOT more pictures with descriptions of what is being done. For example, they refer to grinding the horn brackets, and show a picture of the fairing mount brackets. My LTD has the horn mount brackets way down low, behind the cornering lights. Or better yet, a video of the installation, with verbal instructions. I have bought a number of parts for my Rebel from a place called BlueCollarBobbers, and they provide excellent installation instructions on DVD, with a clear explanation of what is being done and why.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 08:49 pm 158th Post
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Jerry,

Maybe you should email Don personally. As the designer, he may have the answers to your questions.

Also, if you haven't checked this site yet:

http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewforum.php?f=52

There is quite a bit of discussion on the conversion.

:waving:



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 Posted: Mon Sep 5th, 2011 11:07 pm 159th Post
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JerryH somewhere on Don Poorboys thread I came across all the dementions for fabricating the mounting hardware yourself.Being the mechanic you are its pretty simple to do.Im not a mech by trade so it took me a day and a half to fabricate and install the kit myself.I found a site that had dementions for the crank pully and took them to a machine shop they mads it out aluminum and it cost 80 bucks.Also I did not have to reform my fairing lower it fit perfect.Hope that helps you.



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2011 03:36 pm 160th Post
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ceasefire49



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Yea but I think Jerry's whole problem revolves around that extra coolant line. I agree probably e-mailing Don would solve some problems. This is probably something he has already addressed. I plan on doing the conversion this winter. A friend did his own conversion and fabricated everything himself. and he sealed the whole cut with regular slotted rubber and it is very tight on there. This should not be a problem as I plan on cutting the hole then doing the mods to add the seal around it before installing. Doing one side at a time and carefully fitting it around should do the trick to make it water tight.:waving:



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