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1976 GL1000 Neutral light
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JohnBaxter
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 Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 03:25 am1st Post
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Does anyone else out there have a constant neutral light ?

Is there anything that can be done about it ? :stumped:



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 Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 03:33 am2nd Post
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I would guess your neutral switch is stuck, or the wire is shorting to ground.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 06:00 am3rd Post
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There are three things that can cause the light to come on when the switch is in neutral. First is a dirty shorted switch. Check that by disconnecting the wire from the switch on the engine, if that causes the light to go off you've found your problem. Other than that a wire shorted to ground between the switch and the light will cause the light to come on and last a shorted diode. On the '75-'77 the diodes are in a package with seven wires, on the '78-'79s the diode is a separate unit.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 06:10 am4th Post
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Is this also true for 1980 & 81's if the switch is bad is there some place they can be purchased. I have a steady light on my 80 wing and tried replacing the sw with a used one and it did not help. Changed the diode  and no shorted wires.Thanks for any help I hate tape over the light fix.

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 Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 01:19 pm5th Post
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PTATSOC wrote: Is this also true for 1980 & 81's if the switch is bad is there some place they can be purchased. I have a steady light on my 80 wing and tried replacing the sw with a used one and it did not help. Changed the diode  and no shorted wires.Thanks for any help I hate tape over the light fix.
Can ger a new one here http://www.crescentmooncycles.com/html/electrical___ignition.html

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 Posted: Fri Mar 14th, 2008 01:21 pm6th Post
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this has been discussed a few times so I won;t go into much detail. Often the switch gets gummed up and a good engine flush may cure the problem. I personally use a gallon of plain old kerosene but others say I am nuts.........that one is your call although I have used it in every vehicle I have ever owned including a Porsche 928.

 Flushing it out costs little and is also , in my opinion, a good thing to do once a year or 2 just to keep it all nice and clean inside. Good chance it will cure the problem



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 Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 06:32 am7th Post
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Where on the engine is the neutral switch?

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 Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 12:20 pm8th Post
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Depends on the year and model. On a 1000 it is just inside the frame rail basically underneath the # 1 Jug. 

I think on the 1100 or the 1200 it was moved up forward to inside the front cover???



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 Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 04:36 pm9th Post
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That's the location on the 1000, the first couple years of the 1100 had them in the same place, partially covered by the frame on the right side. The last couple of years on the 1100 had the neutral switch under the front cover same as the 1200 and 1500.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 01:33 am10th Post
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Them dam things always went funny after awhile. I just disconnected the light. Both my GL 1000' went after around 30 k

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 Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 01:43 am11th Post
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 I really think they are just like the starter clutches.  Seems like the only ones I have had problems with were on bikes that had been neglected. My Daily rider has almost 160 k and the neutral switch has never been changed.  My Father ( the original owner) was meticulous about oil changes and so am I.  I have also gotten into the habit of once a season doing a good flush just to keep oil varnish to a minimum. 

 I believe that the Starter clutch and the neutral switch are the 2 biggest oil related failures that are commonly seen in the early Wing. 



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 Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 01:45 am12th Post
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check this site it will help you

http://www.gl1000.info/

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 Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 01:48 am13th Post
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http://www.gl1000.info/NeutralLight.shtml

You might try this cure. I did it to my 79 and it worked fine for a while....



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 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2008 04:14 am14th Post
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roncar,

    Where is the doide at? What does it look like? I had my faring off on GL1100, and an orange wire with a cut end was connected to the orange plug, and I grounded it. Thats when I started having Neural light stay on, But i put it back into the same place.

Thanks,

Nightrider1

Thanks,

Nightrider1

roncar wrote:
PTATSOC wrote: Is this also true for 1980 & 81's if the switch is bad is there some place they can be purchased. I have a steady light on my 80 wing and tried replacing the sw with a used one and it did not help. Changed the diode  and no shorted wires.Thanks for any help I hate tape over the light fix.
Can ger a new one here http://www.crescentmooncycles.com/html/electrical___ignition.html



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 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2008 04:23 am15th Post
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John,

    Nothing like that looks anything like my GL1100 Standard. U have any pics for it?

Thanks,

Nightrider1

 

JohnBaxter wrote:
Does anyone else out there have a constant neutral light ?

Is there anything that can be done about it ? :stumped:



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 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2008 12:46 pm16th Post
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Nightrider1 wrote: roncar,

    Where is the doide at? What does it look like? I had my faring off on GL1100, and an orange wire with a cut end was connected to the orange plug, and I grounded it. Thats when I started having Neural light stay on, But i put it back into the same place.

Thanks,

Nightrider1

Thanks,

Nightrider1

roncar wrote:
PTATSOC wrote: Is this also true for 1980 & 81's if the switch is bad is there some place they can be purchased. I have a steady light on my 80 wing and tried replacing the sw with a used one and it did not help. Changed the diode  and no shorted wires.Thanks for any help I hate tape over the light fix.
Can ger a new one here http://www.crescentmooncycles.com/html/electrical___ignition.html

The diode is located on the main wiring harness (on a GL1100) under (or below) the fake tank. Index #1 in this diagram. Looking at the diagram on page 17-3 in the Honda manual, the neutral light has a constant +12v applied to it. The neutral switch applies the ground (or - ) to the lamp and through the diode applies a ground to one side of the solenoid, allowing the starter to operate. The clutch switch will also enable the solenoid, but the diode prevents it applying a ground to the neutral light. If the diode is bad (open) when in neutral the light lites but wont start without the clutch switch being enabled. If the diode is bad (shorted) the neutral light will light every time you pull in the clutch. This is of course assuming everything else is working properly.



On the orange wire, is that on the bikes harness (normally left turn signal) or the vetter harness (optional vetter horn or other accessory?) If it is the vetter harness, no telling what a P.O. has done. You will have to trace it out to figure what it is being used for in the fairing. Orange plug?



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 Posted: Fri Nov 14th, 2008 01:04 pm17th Post
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roncar,

   Mine is under the False Gas tank, up front on the left side. I traced it to the rear left Stop/blinker, which works ok.

Thanks,

Nightrider1



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 Posted: Sat Nov 15th, 2008 08:13 am18th Post
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Whiskerfish wrote:  I really think they are just like the starter clutches.  Seems like the only ones I have had problems with were on bikes that had been neglected. My Daily rider has almost 160 k and the neutral switch has never been changed.  My Father ( the original owner) was meticulous about oil changes and so am I.  I have also gotten into the habit of once a season doing a good flush just to keep oil varnish to a minimum. 

 I believe that the Starter clutch and the neutral switch are the 2 biggest oil related failures that are commonly seen in the early Wing. 

Hey Whisker
Did your Father have the same riding style as you?  If I remember correctly you and I like to twist it open a bit.  Same mileage as well.  I'm just curious as to whether it may be a carbon build up problem more than neglect. 



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