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Stripped spark plug hole
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FinallygotmyGoldwing
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 Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 09:31 pm1st Post
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Spark plug hole #3 thread is rounded. Can I use a tap/die set to re thread the hole, or will the shavings cause problems. If no tap/die what can I do?

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 Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 09:40 pm2nd Post
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Hi, your best bet is to have a helicoil done. This takes the hole back to original size by fitting a metal coil insert. It's also stronger than original threaded hole.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 09:42 pm3rd Post
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Had a 250 honda in the 70's and that stripped a plug thread had the thread cleaned up and ended up with a slight gas leak which at 85mph melted the plug thro the piston................

Have heard that heli coil can be used with it in situ so does not have to be stripped

p.s. now I leave my plugs alone if it runs !



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 Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 09:56 pm4th Post
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Get yourself a heli-coil kit.It will come with the proper tap and coil insert.Tap it out and install the heli-coil.you can use some threadlocker on the coil when installing the coil into the head.Put grease on the tap and it will catch and hold most if not all of the cuttings.Even if it doesn't the aluminum cuttings won't hurt anything.You can also stick a long,thin blow nozzle down into the cylinder and blow the cuttings back out the plug hole.Be careful and wear safety glasses while doing this.A used head would be another option if your not comfortable with this procedure.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 12:23 am5th Post
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As already has been mentioned, a helicoil is the best repair. You could try a tap the size of the plug and see if you can restore the existing threads, it might just be the upper couple of turns. If you need to do a helicoil I'd recommend removing the head to do the job. Though the aluminum shavings ought not to do any damage to the steel valve, valve seat or cylinder I have seem little bits of aluminum get stuck on an intake valve seat preventing the intake valve from shutting. I've put helicoils into several heads for spark plug problems, pretty common in aluminum heads. One of the best things you can do is to put a bit of aluminum based anti-seize on your spark plug threads to prevent them from galling the aluminum threads in the head.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 12:24 am6th Post
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    Having been a drag racer for 40 years I have seen several aluminum heads with plugs stripped out.  The best way to repair is to go to a NAPA store and get a K-D brand spark plug thread restore kit.  It contains the tap and a steel sleeve insert.  A Helicoil is a spring.  Works fine for a bolt.  But I prefer the steel sleeve on a spark plug because of the comptession.  Good luck.



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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 01:25 am7th Post
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Helicoil kit for sure.  Done all the time since the 60s any way.  Navy tested.

Also used in tooling where bolts are continually moved in and out.

Helicoils are Titanium alloy or used to be anyway.

Follow the instructions to the letter.

Rig a vaccum up to remove any shavings out. 

Have the piston at TDC.  Have the exhaust valve open so the incoming air will sweep away the shavings.

It works, done all the time.

Longboater,



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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 05:26 am8th Post
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I agree with Ghost Rider 2. At least I would try that first and then if it didn't work go to the heilicoil.Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 03:57 pm9th Post
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Thanks guys for the advice. I'll mull it over and when I get time this weekend I will attack.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 05:11 pm10th Post
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if you have only damaged the first couple of threads then use a tool called a back-tap

I used one to repair a 14mm spark plug hole a month ago...I was amazed how easily it work.

If you choose to tap the hole then the shavings have no place to go but down into the cylinder, the back-tap prevents that from happening. 

The entire repair takes approx 1 minute to do.....my plug now threads in smooth and easy....



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 Posted: Wed Mar 19th, 2008 06:19 pm11th Post
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1 way:  use a spark plug as a tap.  May have to cut across threads of plug of plug to form starting V notch.  Or with patience and force on the extension  it might cut into existing remnants of thread.  Time saver if it works. Good luck



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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 02:03 am12th Post
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I hate to be the stick in the mud, but what happens if the filings don't get cleaned out and stay in the cylinder?  Time for a new engine...
Pull the head off and do it right.  Don't drill or tap anything until the head is removed!!   Remember the mechanic's adage..."never time to do it right, but always time to do it twice"

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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 02:29 am13th Post
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It wouldn't be safe to let iron chips get in a cylinder as they might if you were tapping an iron head but aluminum is soft enough that they won't scratch the steel valves and seats or the cylinder or rings. Unless a bit of aluminum gets caught under a valve which is admittedly low probability there really isn't much damage that the small particles can cause. They can't get in the bearings because there's no access from the cylinder to the bearings.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 03:04 am14th Post
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http://www.back-tap.com/  C heck this site out for a tap that traps cuttings and then some.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 03:38 am15th Post
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Heli-coils are the best way to go. I had an old ford T-Bird engine I rebuilt for an old 56 Ford F-100 panel truck. I had every head bolt drilled and heli-coils inserted, also did all the main bolts and spark plugs at the same. This engine was a 1957 312 T-Bird engine, when we got it put together it pumped out over 450 hp. Had it not had the heli-coils it would have blown up at the first time we took it to its red line.

If I ever have to build an engine for my wing all bolt holes will be heli-coiled....spark plugs too...

Claude



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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 03:53 am16th Post
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ARK for some reason your link didn't get me there but I just typed in the web address and whow awesome stuff. I watched the video and am sold. What size do I need? Guessing 12mm. I have an 81 gl1100i.

And is the size I need a standard size for motorcycles, so I can get my money out of it in the future.

Thanks a lot, And thanks Night :grinner: for the recommendation

Last edited on Thu Mar 20th, 2008 04:02 am by FinallygotmyGoldwing

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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 11:01 am17th Post
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I have had quite a bit of luck with helicoils in spark plug holes.

But I always have to Pre drill the hole and tap to the new Helicoil size.

In the kits I bought were the proper sized Drill and Tap with a cheap insertion tool to help install the Helicoils.

I also use a shop Vac with the narrow attachment placed near the hole I am drilling and tapping and have not had ANY chips get into the cylinder. 

Works for me. Plus I give it extra sucking right at the plug hole while turning the engine over to be sure.

And I inserted the smooth Helicoils with a thread Locking compound rather than the locking helicoils that have the deformed octagon thread midway down to lock the helicoil into the hole.

I find that the locking type of helicoil will eventually lock itself to the plug and come out with the plug or drive itself further into the head where it becomes a real bitch to remove.

Good Luck to all.

Mohawk




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 Posted: Thu Mar 20th, 2008 11:52 am18th Post
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I agree with Ghost Riser 2, get a spark plug repair insert, not a helicoil. The helicoil has the little tab on the end that has to be broken off when it's installed and chances are good it will fall into the cylinder and it is going to damage the cylinder wall. The insert kit has a tool that cuts the hole and threads it at the same time. Put grease on it to catch the cuttings and there won't be enough get into the cylinder to worry about. Make sure the intake valve is closed and the piston down so the tool doesn't hit them.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 01:26 am19th Post
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Just found a 14mm back tap on ebay:
 
http://tinyurl.com/3e59xg

mucha betta cost--edit, mucha betta url

Last edited on Fri Mar 21st, 2008 02:11 am by FinallygotmyGoldwing

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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 01:42 am20th Post
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The problem there is your plugs are 12mm.
You need to learn about TinyURL.com - shorten that long URL into a Tiny URL
so when you post a link it doesn't make the page so wide, I'm new to this stuff too so don't take it the wrong way, just trying to help.:)



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