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Stripped spark plug hole
 Moderated by: wingnut, wexy, tanygaer, redbaron, Patch, mikef, MDKramer, AZgl1500  
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FinallygotmyGoldwing
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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 02:13 am21st Post
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Ok I have one person tell me 14mm and one tell me 12mm. Can I get 13mm from anyone?

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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 02:43 am22nd Post
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Look up the number of your plug on Google and get the thread diameter.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 03:38 am23rd Post
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Having trouble with this chart, but here goes

Attachment: Spark plug designations.GIF (Downloaded 59 times)



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 04:28 am24th Post
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lol thats almost as confusing as the wiring page in my service manual.--edit, ok i've got DPR7EA, so it looks to be 12mm.

Thanks guys for the schematic, saved it for future use.

Last edited on Fri Mar 21st, 2008 04:33 am by FinallygotmyGoldwing

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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 09:35 am25th Post
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A Back Tap is great if only the first few threads are screwed up.  And this tool works great if that is the fact.

But with Aluminum heads it's so easy for somebody to cross thread the plug all the way tight.

If you retap or Back tap the hole to clean the threads or in effect you are making another set of threads that your plug can hopefully follow.

The chances are increased that you end up with leakage around the plug due to the multiple threads being cut into the existing hole.

Then the only cheap and clean solution is a Helicoil or a keen sert.

And as for the Tab at the bottom. If this was a smaller hole, Yes the tab would be broken down into the hole with the snap tang breaker.

But,

A Plug hole is so large that you can reach down there with Needle Nose Pliers or the Small Needle Nose Vise Grips.  I use Kelly Forceps to clamp onto the tang and give a 1/4 twist one way then the other and the tang is removed and pulled from the hole cleanly.

This has always been a proven procedure for me and has worked successfully many times with Old engines with Aluminum heads.  More Volkswagens than Bikes as people take care of their bikes better. Oh and those Aluminum Heads for the older Buick engines that were the hot ticket for sand rails a few years ago.

Good Luck

Mohawk

Last edited on Fri Mar 21st, 2008 09:38 am by Mohawk



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 05:33 pm26th Post
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Sorry if I appear to be hi-jacking this thread but i would like some advice on Helicoil kits. 

The threads are almost gone on my (GL1500)  front fork where the top of the wheel rotor cover and the brake pipe guide are fitted (behind the removable part of the front fender) . I have considered just drilling it out and re-tapping with a larger size but I would prefer to keep the same size.

Would this be suitable for a helicoil repair and if so what size would I need to get ?

Thanks



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 07:04 pm27th Post
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http://www-test.toolmonger.com/2007/11/14/un-oops-that-cross-threaded-spark-plug-hole/

Has three for the price of one



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 07:24 pm28th Post
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RON WYLIE wrote: The threads are almost gone on my (GL1500)  front fork where the top of the wheel rotor cover and the brake pipe guide are fitted (behind the removable part of the front fender) . Would this be suitable for a helicoil repair and if so what size would I need to get ? Thanks

You can use a helicoil anywhere there's meat enough to run the helicoil tap through. Helicoil repair will give you a stronger fastening than the original threads. They are approved for a lot of uses in aircraft engines which means they've been pretty well tested. I would always prefer to have the original sized screws and bolts in the bike unless there was a good reason to over bore and tap.

Normally with a Helicoil you snap off the driving tab by screwing the screw or bolt in, as Mohawk has mentioned and I have done, you can use a long nose plier to get the tab off the end of the coil in the larger sizes. In a deep hole you can use more than one coil to get the length of threads you need, just install one coil all the way to the bottom of the hole and then screw another one in following the original one. I've used a lot of these repairs over the years and never had a failure. They don't give them away, I wouldn't want to have to put in a dozen big ones cause of the cost. The kit includes the tap, coils, and a driver. If you need more coils you can buy the coils separately which are no where near the price of the kit.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 07:40 pm29th Post
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http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/universal/ut105.htm

As you can see, here is an example of one being used to repair a damaged thread in a generator complete with pictures.



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FinallygotmyGoldwing
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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 08:33 pm30th Post
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Hey guys I just ordered this back tap:

http://tinyurl.com/2jj76q

Seems to be the top few threads are rounded, so I'll give it a shot, then check for leakage.

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 Posted: Fri Mar 21st, 2008 08:40 pm31st Post
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Ain't life grand?



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 Posted: Sat Mar 22nd, 2008 05:39 am32nd Post
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Great price on that.



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 Posted: Sat Mar 22nd, 2008 07:37 am33rd Post
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Thanks for all the replies.  So what size helicoil do I need to buy for my fork problem please ?



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 Posted: Sat Mar 22nd, 2008 09:23 am34th Post
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Sorry Ron for leaving you hanging.

Your question is on topic so I don't consider it hi jacking at all.

You stated you wanted to use the same bolts so this means Metric on our end.

In my experience, Metric Helicoils are always more expensive. Go Figure. But it may be the other way around where you live.

Also if you look at the standard Tap Drill Chart and the Helicoil Drill Chart, you will see the Helicoil drill is always larger than the Standard Drill.

So for your application Ron, You need to establish what size bolts you have now and the length of thread needed.  You don't need the length to be the whole distance as a helicoil is MUCH stronger than the native aluminum threads. So get a standard length figuring on your Helicoil will be a thread to a thread and half below the surface and not to extend beyond the parent material.

After you have that info you can get you a Helicoil repair kit either from an Auto Repair parts store or even the internet.

The Metric Tap chart you can find on the internet.  Here is one I found.

I will list the tap size first. Followed by two drill sizes. The first drill size is for cut taps, the second is for roll taps. Both are for the "nominal" hole diameter required, nominal being midway between the upper and lower tolerance limits for the minor diameter. The taps are STI taps and should have STI printed on them. STI means Steel Thread Insert.

Tap Size_______ Cut tap_________ Roll tap
M2.5 - .45 ______#37 drill________ _#33 drill.
M3 - .5 _________1/8 drill_________ #29 drill.
M4 - .7 ________#19 drill__________ #15 drill
M5 - .8 ________#5 drill__________ 5.7mm drill
M6 - 1 _______6.3mm drill _________6.8mm drill
M8 - 1.25 _____8.4mm drill ________9.0mm drill
M10 - 1.5 _______Z drill ___________7/16 drill
M12 - 1.75 ____12.5mm drill________ 17/32 drill
M16 - 2 _______16.5mm drill ________45/64 drill

Use some type of cutting fluid. Also you can go up a couple thousandths on the diameter if tapping steel or other hard materials.
Be careful,

Also a Roll Tap or Form Tap makes much stronger threads without making chips.  But these are not to be used close to an edge as the forming forces may break the parent material.  So if you have a boss with the threaded hole close to the edge I would choose a cut tap every time.

So drill it and tap it making real sure you are perpendicular to the surface. You need to be square with the hole.  Use a semi heavy oil not WD-40 or something light like that. Even Motor Oil is better.

Good Luck Ron, THis will work great for you.

Mohawk



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