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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 12:57 am 1st Post
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wingdawg101
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Searched 9 pages of "Yellow Wire" threads!

Question, on an 1100 since all 3 wires are yellow (not marked) I guess it doesn't matter which 2 Yellow wires you solder together out of the 6 wires, is this correct?:baffled:

I've always kept a lot of "Dilectric Grease" on mine so have not had a problem but thinking I should do it?!

Thanks!



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 01:30 am 2nd Post
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Patch
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You are correct, it does not matter which 2 wires you hook together.

Just make sure to shrink wrap them well.  Some very thick walled shrink wrap or about 3 layers of regular wall shrink wrap will work nice.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 01:36 am 3rd Post
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sanfelice
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Necessary on the 1000s as well? 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 02:10 am 4th Post
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wingdawg101
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Thanks!



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 02:26 am 5th Post
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johnmac
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Yes. The same for 1000s and 1200s.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 05:15 am 6th Post
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exavid
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Just make sure you connect three upgoing wires to three downgoing ones! Incestuous interconnecting won't work.:cheeky1:



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 03:45 pm 7th Post
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ccsailor
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You know guys   I've been giving this a lot of thought lately and I think it DOES matter which wires hook to each other. I think you should mark them and reconnect A to A  B to B and C to C

follow my maybe misguided logic

rotor is turning clockwise(or the other way for you guys that will try to correct me doesn't matter) passes A then B then C so you get "flow" with the following

A_B_C   or B_C_A   or C_B_A

BUT   if you hook up different

B_C_A  or C_B_A   OR   A_C_B  it is not in order of rotation ergo not as much O/P

 

Right or wrong I don't know but it seems logical to me

We need an electrical engineer to answer this one

 

Neil

 

 



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 04:31 pm 8th Post
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twisty
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wingdawg101 wrote: Searched 9 pages of "Yellow Wire" threads!

Question, on an 1100 since all 3 wires are yellow (not marked) I guess it doesn't matter which 2 Yellow wires you solder together out of the 6 wires, is this correct?:baffled:

I've always kept a lot of "Dilectric Grease" on mine so have not had a problem but thinking I should do it?!

Thanks!


wingdawg101, you are correct, it really doesn't matter what yellow rear wire is hooked to what front wire as long as they are ALL isolated from each other & each wire runs from the stator to the regulator uninterrupted.. That system is 3-Phase A/C so polarity or wire matching isn't important. Once the regulator gets hold of the current it just shoves it through a series of diodes to rectify it & turn it into D/C, at that point it becomes polarity sensitive.

To help understand the principal-- (remember electricity & water act a lot alike).. You have 3 garden hoses fed from either one pump with 3 SEPARATE impellers & outputs phased 120° apart, or 3 separate pumps run from the same motor.. Those 3 hoses end up at a combining valve but pass through a one way check valve before doing so.. The combined outputs of those 3 hoses comes out of the end of the combining valve with almost 3 times the flow & the individual pulses are now one smooth flow (it doesn't really matter what hose is connected to what inlet port)..

Twisty



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 04:34 pm 9th Post
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twisty
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ccsailor wrote: You know guys   I've been giving this a lot of thought lately and I think it DOES matter which wires hook to each other. I think you should mark them and reconnect A to A  B to B and C to C

follow my maybe misguided logic

rotor is turning clockwise(or the other way for you guys that will try to correct me doesn't matter) passes A then B then C so you get "flow" with the following

A_B_C   or B_C_A   or C_B_A

BUT   if you hook up different

B_C_A  or C_B_A   OR   A_C_B  it is not in order of rotation ergo not as much O/P

 

Right or wrong I don't know but it seems logical to me

We need an electrical engineer to answer this one

 

Neil

 

 

Neil, if your logic held correct then you would get a different voltage reading when measuring from A to B than A to C (not so)..

Twisty



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 04:47 pm 10th Post
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ccsailor
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not quite twisty    a-c  and a- b are the same electrically when measured separately so they will measure the same if working correctly

BUT your hose theory holds water :goofygrin::goofygrin::goofygrin:  I guess it depends on how many "pulses " are put out and when. which of course depends on how many magnets and spacing are in the rotor



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 05:01 pm 11th Post
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twisty
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ccsailor wrote: not quite twisty    a-c  and a- b are the same electrically when measured separately so they will measure the same if working correctly

BUT your hose theory holds water :goofygrin::goofygrin::goofygrin:  I guess it depends on how many "pulses " are put out and when. which of course depends on how many magnets and spacing are in the rotor

Neil, if "a-c  and a- b are the same electrically when measured separately" that is just how the rectifier would see them.. Actually once the rectifier diodes get the stator A/C current it is pulsed D/C after that..

Twisty



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 07:57 pm 12th Post
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mjohnson
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Were there any issues with this problem on the 1500 series - specifically the 1989 model wing?

Mike



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 08:12 pm 13th Post
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Last edited on Fri Mar 21st, 2008 11:39 pm by RedWinger

 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 09:31 pm 14th Post
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Patch
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I knew I shoulda got me a 1500. :headbanger:



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 Posted: Tue Sep 6th, 2005 11:37 pm 15th Post
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wingdawg101
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ccsailor,

You threw me a "Curve" Ball ?!

But "Twisty" was "Pitch Hitting" for me, ha!

Maybe "Candian Electricty is different from US electricty?!:goofygrin::goofygrin::baffled:



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 12:51 am 16th Post
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ccsailor
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Nah still not convinced



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Rest not! Life is sweeping by; go and dare before you die." - Goethe

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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 01:37 am 17th Post
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CCSailor.... Your logic might just hold... if each of A-B  B-C was occuping exactly 1/3 of the winding space... and  a single brush was taking off the electricity, at a certain point, as the coil passed that point ... but...  I think the brushless effect of a stator... and the  repeated winding pattern  means that each loop   say the pink in the enclosed pic ... is giving out its current  at several times in each revolution.........                 http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/site/overview.jsp?nodeId=02nQXGrrlPglzQMszY                    now I know this is a three phase motor ... but the electrical effect is the same...... So I gotta disagree with you... and  I think that the order of soldering of the three Yellows makes no difference makes absolutely NO difference ... SilverDave

Last edited on Wed Sep 7th, 2005 01:40 am by SilverDave



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 01:52 am 18th Post
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ccsailor
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you seem to be supporting my theory if you look at your link   it goes pink   blue    black and repeats all the way around SO in theory you SHOULD hook up in order right??????????????? then twistys "pulsed"dc prf would be less (which is good)

Unless they are interwound with each other in real time like a braided effect???????????

Last edited on Wed Sep 7th, 2005 01:55 am by ccsailor



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 02:12 am 19th Post
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wingdawg101
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Then how come everyone who has randomly wired the yellow wires have had no problems?:baffled:



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 Posted: Wed Sep 7th, 2005 02:34 am 20th Post
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If it did make a differance, then 3 phase motor wiring would have the same problem with phase sync., I would think.  Switching two wires on a 3 phase motor only reverses the direction.

My vote is: it doesn't matter.



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