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shoe
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 12:06 am | 1st Post |
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It ain't working! I downloaded the (a) Dynatek manual for the closet thing to my 79 GL1000 I could find. But the instructions are not making sense in that none of the colored wires seem to be correct. Either I got the incorrect Dynatek manual of I got a wiring harness on my bike that isn't a 79 GL1000.
So I pulled the left valve cover to so I always know that I am on the compression stroke, I pulled the plugs to save the knuckles while turning the engine from the alternator, I have the timing mark lined up in the timing hole. I am ever so slowly turning the back plate of the Dynatek. But I do I want my static light to come on at the timing mark or go off? Any help here would be nice.
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retiredintime
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 02:28 am | 2nd Post |
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If your test light is connected to one of the connections under the left cover forward of the battery and the other side of the test light is grounded the light should just come on.
The bike wiring colors should be blue for one and yellow for the other I think. It has been while since I did that. Those are the wires that go to the coil and used to go to the points plate. They now go to the Dyna box...
____________________
Bob..KF4GP
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is!
Life is ten percent what you make it, and ninety percent how you take it!
79 GL1000 46K
86 R80RT
90 K75RT
Garage won't hold any more!
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erinfire703
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 03:44 am | 3rd Post |
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Was the Dyna unit new, could be fried causing the circuit to remain closed?? Also I read somewhere that the colors were reversed in some of the older Dyna units. I have the same unit on my 75GL pretty sure there isn't a whole lot of difference. Its been well over a year but Im wanting to say my light never went completely out . Let me know if you cant sort it out and I will look to see how mine is set up and I think I still have the timing instructions I downloaded. May say the same as yours but if different I'd be happy to copy and mail them to you (if I can find them!!)
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1975 GL1000
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nomados
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 03:58 am | 4th Post |
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There's a great tutorial on the other wings site, done by a member here named Octane. He's a mod with the same name on the other site. Anyway, checkit out. Very detailed instructions, as per his usual style.
The NGW Project Bike. DYNA ignition.How-to TIME / ADJUST
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1975 GL1000
If Goldwings were whiskey they'd always be served neat.
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77GL1
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 03:59 am | 5th Post |
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yes, some of the point wires are incorrect, but the connector on the end of the point wire is colored correctly.
...and the red wire can be connected to any power source in the 12vt circut.
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http://www.salocal.com/parts/goldwing_parts.htm
'77 GL1000 / '76 CB836F
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erinfire703
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 04:17 am | 6th Post |
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OK couldn't wait..........I check my set up. White to blue w/ thin yellow stripe, Black to yellow and then red to the hot side of your flasher.
Hope that helps
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1975 GL1000
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erinfire703
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 04:17 am | 7th Post |
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OK couldn't wait..........I check my set up. White to blue w/ thin yellow stripe, Black to yellow and then red to the hot side of your flasher.
Hope that helps
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1975 GL1000
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erinfire703
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 04:18 am | 8th Post |
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OOPS!!!! Sorry about that!!
Last edited on Wed Apr 16th, 2008 10:28 am by erinfire703
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1975 GL1000
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shoe
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 10:18 pm | 9th Post |
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What a bubble head!  had the light coming on on the wrong side! In other words the light was coming on about the time it should have been going off! Oh my, lookie the rotor is going the other way.
Sheeese. I fixed that, put everything together. Hit the starter and BANG if fired right up. Ran real good and then, it just stopped. Dead. Still had the petcock in the off position. I better figure all this out before I start out for the summer... I miss fuel injection. My Victory had it, my Harley's got it. But neither of them have the class of this 79 GL1000!
Without the head light at idle (950-1000 RPM) the volt meter shows 14 Volts. all the running lights have been changed to LED.
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77GL1
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 04:07 am | 10th Post |
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| I think you should be getting 14.5 at the battery with the revs up to 2500.
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http://www.salocal.com/parts/goldwing_parts.htm
'77 GL1000 / '76 CB836F
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erinfire703
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 03:24 pm | 11th Post |
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shoe wrote: all the running lights have been changed to LED.
Ive been thinking about changing to LEDs any advice??
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1975 GL1000
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shoe
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 05:59 pm | 12th Post |
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If you’re trying to save watts such as I am, as I want to install some lights on my sidecar then this is the way to go. Although these LWDs are bright, they still aren’t as bright at the incandescent bulbs. If you don’t plan on running any additional electrical load you should probably stick with the incandescent bulbs.
Well most of my info I got from different folks on this web site. But I can sum up what I did. I purchase all the bulbs from http://www.superbrightleds.com At first I didn’t get the resisters because everyone I communicated with was having luck with the Trident EP28 flasher. I couldn’t get it to work for me. Here is what I purchased:
2 – 24LED red for the tail light. [1157]
2 – 24LED Amber for the Vetter running/blinker[1157]
2 – 24LED Amber for the rear blinkers [1156]
For the dash lights
1 red, 1 blue, 1 amber, 2 green, 7 white. (BA9 single LED)
four load resisters. This seems like it is defeating the purpose of LED but they only draw power while the blinker is flashing.
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erinfire703
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 11:49 pm | 13th Post |
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Thanks for the info.......I am trying to save power, right now the only extra I am running are two driving lights but I want to put some along the back. Also i think my charging system is a little weak and I want to try and limp it along a while longer!
Thanks again
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1975 GL1000
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shoe
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Posted: Sat Apr 19th, 2008 12:24 am | 14th Post |
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From what I gathered from the discussions Honda never thought about folks adding gobs of lights to these things. Depending on the watts the driving lights pull you may be draining your battery at anything but highway speeds.
I've even thought about putting in a HID (High Intensity Discharge) head light. They need a ballast to start but then draw less power than a regular anything else well being brighter. But it would be over $200. So I'll wait on that.
Last edited on Sat Apr 19th, 2008 12:27 am by shoe
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erinfire703
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Posted: Sat Apr 19th, 2008 01:05 am | 15th Post |
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Yeah I only run them at night because of the draw....I looked at the HID also  , I couldnt afford that and the couch I would need so I had a place to sleep!!!
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1975 GL1000
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77GL1
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Posted: Sat Apr 19th, 2008 04:59 pm | 16th Post |
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shoe wrote: From what I gathered from the discussions Honda never thought about folks adding gobs of lights to these things. Depending on the watts the driving lights pull you may be draining your battery at anything but highway speeds.
The GL1000's alternator put out 300 watts, and does start on 12vts and thru diodes switches to run on 6vts. They figured the coils and points would last longer that way.
You can put some stuff on them. Running lights, etc, but you've got'a keep and eye on the current and switch it all off for starting.
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http://www.salocal.com/parts/goldwing_parts.htm
'77 GL1000 / '76 CB836F
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nomados
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Posted: Sat Apr 19th, 2008 07:36 pm | 17th Post |
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shoe wrote: From what I gathered from the discussions Honda never thought about folks adding gobs of lights to these things. Depending on the watts the driving lights pull you may be draining your battery at anything but highway speeds.
77GL1 wrote:
The GL1000's alternator put out 300 watts, and does start on 12vts and thru diodes switches to run on 6vts. They figured the coils and points would last longer that way. You can put some stuff on them. Running lights, etc, but you've got'a keep and eye on the current and switch it all off for starting.
Due to the ballast going from 3 ohms to 1.2 ohms running Dyna does change the running voltage (and power draw) quite a bit, does it not?
For testing, the Honda manual says 14.5 v and 3A at 5000 rpm with the headlight on high beam and the fan off. That test says to me that at 5000 rpm only 44 watts are "surplus" to what's being used and that's with stock ignition.
Worst case scenario (sitting at a stoplight with your brake and signal on) I calculate 125 watts being used for stock lights, and with Dyna 120 watts going to the coils. Stock (points) would be 50 watts. And then if you're sitting at idle I don't know what you could expect from the alternator. I guess what I'm saying is I think it depends a lot on your riding environment. I haven't fouled a plug since moving to the country from the traffic congested area I used to live in.
Last edited on Sat Apr 19th, 2008 07:38 pm by nomados
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1975 GL1000
If Goldwings were whiskey they'd always be served neat.
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erinfire703
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Posted: Sat Apr 19th, 2008 09:29 pm | 18th Post |
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| The electrical system is my weakest subject.....I run the dyna with the ballast that came with the kit and I show between 13.5 and 13.75 around 3000rpms with the headlight on. I could be very wrong but I think the only time the Dyna draws a significantly higher draw is if you choose not to use the ballast at all wich causes the full draw to the coils. Please let me know if Im way wrong......still learning about the electrical bits on these wonderful bikes.
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1975 GL1000
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nomados
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Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 12:32 am | 19th Post |
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Using Ohm's law i figure:
12 v @ 3 ohms (stock ballast resistor) = 4 amps to the coils, therefore 48 watts.
12v @ 1.2 ohms (Dyna ballast resistor) = 10 amps to the coils, therefore 120 watts.
12v @ 1 ohm (no ballast resistor, starting mode) = 12 amps to the coils, therefore 144 watts. (though starting voltage is more like 10v, or less, so < 120 watts)
This is a very simplistic view, and there may be more going on with the diodes and switches 77GL1 mentioned but it seems to me that the Dyna setup can potentially draw much more to the coils. I think the stock 3 ohm resistor was sized to protect the points more than the coils. This also explains why the Dyna setup works so well, even with the stock coils.
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1975 GL1000
If Goldwings were whiskey they'd always be served neat.
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nomados
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Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 12:53 am | 20th Post |
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Looks right to me.... I see 12V going to those babies.
Attachment: Pages from Honda GL1000 75-79 Service Manual ignition circuit.gif (Downloaded 84 times)
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1975 GL1000
If Goldwings were whiskey they'd always be served neat.
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