| Author | Post |
|---|
ralroder
Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 02:57 am | 1st Post |
|
| i have an 1986 gl1200a SEi, had been sitting for 10 yrs, slowly but surly getting it back into shape. was not running, now runs great. would not go, after cleaning and rebuilding the clutch master cylinder now shifts effortlessly. Now working on the brakes. removed all calipers, and pistons for rebuild spun the tires by hand just for the heck of it. front wheel rotates freely. rear wheel has light rub sounds like metal on metal, but just faintly, the wheel makes about one revolution before it stops. I know the gears are also turning inside. the scrapping noise seems to fade in certain spots. Is this normal.....the bike has over 100, 000 miles.
____________________
____________________
Jerry
1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi
|
suks2bu37
Active Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 03:23 am | 2nd Post |
|
If the rotor is slightly warped and you use semi-metallic brake pads, the high spot on the rotor and the brake pads touching at only that one place could sound like metal to metal. Put the bike on the center stand and mark the tire next to the ground with a crayon to see if it is the same place every time. The problem may fix itself when the pads seat in if you have new pads.
suks2bu37
____________________
I ride too fast, too long, and too hard to ride a Harley!!!!
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Past Goldwing: 1986 GL1200 Interstate
http://usera.imagecave.com/suks2bu37/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-WOKTouring
|
Wing-Rider
Very Active Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 04:14 am | 3rd Post |
|
Just to clarify, is there noise with or without the brake caliper installed. Reason being, the tire could be rubbing a fender or something.
____________________
All I wanna do is ride, ride, ride!....And enjoy every minute of it too!
|
SC
Very Active Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 05:29 am | 4th Post |
|
| Could be a dry bearing if you had the calipers off when you heard the noise?
____________________
CAUTION: expressed opinion may lead to chaffing, a FOIL HAT and or FOIL UNDERWAEAR are highly recommended for your protection
|
lostinflorida
Senior Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 12:41 pm | 5th Post |
|
My 1200I had the rear wheel and drive replaced with one off a 1500. Does your front and rear wheel match. The spokes on mine don't.
I know that on bumps my rear tire rubbed the fender, but that was 2up.
I'ld have to agree, might be a bearing. 100,000 miles, could be a good thing while you have the brakes off remove the rear tire and do a complete regreasing of the drive and change the bearing too.
____________________
PGR member
IBA member #32000
|
ralroder
Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 01:14 pm | 6th Post |
|
hi all; thanks you for your help. i have removed the caliper and the sound is very light. but i dont think its the bearings... sounds higher....but ill check them out any way, and also the tire on fender theory. i really think its the rotor. I have the honda service manual too lazy to look right now, but is removing the rotor or tire a major job? what i was wondering, is this something that can wait until i actually get it on the road?
Im so antsy can wait to get it rollin!
____________________
____________________
Jerry
1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi
|
ralroder
Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 04:53 pm | 7th Post |
|
| my front and rear wheel match....
____________________
____________________
Jerry
1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi
|
FenderHead
Senior Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 05:17 pm | 8th Post |
|
If you remove the rear wheel, you will notice the driven spline hub is part of a 6-pin "spider" which should come out of the wheel fairly easily. That spider also fits over a hub on the wheel, with the wheel hub having a type of O-ring on it.
I would thoroughly clean all of those things, the wheel hub, the 6 spider pins, the pin holes, and the driven spline, and the drive spline in the final drive...and apply a light film of moly grease to all contact areas. This cured the noises on my putt. 
Often, if the brake pads/rotors are making noises, they will either be more of a "grinding" or "singing" or squeeling...I think...but I don't claim that to be all-inclusive. 
____________________
I do all my own stunts...
|
wrongway
Senior Member
back to top
|
Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 06:43 pm | 9th Post |
|
When I had my Valkyrie I had a sound that I first noticed when moving the bike in the garage with the engine off.
Turned out that the rear spline was dry so I had the dealer grease it and the sound went away.
____________________
Greg (wrongway)& wife Bonnie
Previous bikes from recent are:1998 Goldwing SE,
2001 Valkyrie Standard, 2005 Vulcan 1500, 2000 750 Shadow....30 year absence....350 Honda, 175 Bridgstone, 305 Honda, 125 Kawasaki
|
muaymendez1
Senior Member
back to top
|
Posted: Fri May 9th, 2008 10:34 am | 10th Post |
|
SC wrote: Could be a dry bearing if you had the calipers off when you heard the noise?
I am having the same prob only recently the sound doesnt stop at points it is a continuous metal to metal noise.
Can you relube a bearnig or are they done when dry??
____________________
You can Fly pattern your whole life and not be a pilot.
|
FenderHead
Senior Member
back to top
|
Posted: Fri May 9th, 2008 03:36 pm | 11th Post |
|
muaymendez1 wrote: SC wrote: Could be a dry bearing if you had the calipers off when you heard the noise?
Can you relube a bearnig or are they done when dry??
Wheel bearings are sealed. If they go dry, they should be replaced.
I would first try to determine the true source of the noise(s)...autoparts stores sell those things...stethoscopes?...to aid in pinpointing noises. I've always used a long screwdriver with the handle tight against my ear, and the business end probing different possible areas for the noise...
(crap, I think I just shot myself in the foot...again!!) 
____________________
I do all my own stunts...
|
ralroder
Member
back to top
|
Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 11:18 pm | 12th Post |
|
THE SOUND IS COMING FROM THE ROTOR....THE BRACKET THE CALIPERS BOLT TO LOOKS TO BE RUBBING AGAINST THE ROTOR BELOW THE AREA THE SHOES MAKE CONTACT. ROTATING THE TIRE IT ONLY RUBS ON ABOUT 1/2 TO 1/4 PART OF IT THEN SILENT. I DO KNOW ITS NOT THE BEARINGS, THERE SMOOTH.
I PUT IN 1ST GEAR AND GAVE IT SOME GAS, SOUNDED LIKE THE NOISE GOT LOUDER WITH SPEED.
I AM THINKING THE ROTOR IS WARPED....COULD IT BE ANYTHING ELSE? BESIDES THE NOISE THE ROTOR LOOKS GOOD, AND I KNOW THERE ISNT A WHOLE LOT OF CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE BRACKET AND THE ROTOR. JUST EYEBALLING FROM THE REAR, I CANT TELL IF IT WOBBLES OR NOT.
THE BIKE HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 10 YRS, COULD THE ROTORS WARP FROM SITTING, OR MAYBE THE WHEEL? IT WAS STORED ON ITS CENTER STAND.
86' GL1200A SEi
Last edited on Sun May 11th, 2008 11:22 pm by ralroder
____________________
____________________
Jerry
1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi
|
Wing-Rider
Very Active Member
back to top
|
Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 05:05 am | 13th Post |
|
ralroder wrote: THE SOUND IS COMING FROM THE ROTOR....THE BRACKET THE CALIPERS BOLT TO LOOKS TO BE RUBBING AGAINST THE ROTOR BELOW THE AREA THE SHOES MAKE CONTACT. ROTATING THE TIRE IT ONLY RUBS ON ABOUT 1/2 TO 1/4 PART OF IT THEN SILENT. I DO KNOW ITS NOT THE BEARINGS, THERE SMOOTH.
I PUT IN 1ST GEAR AND GAVE IT SOME GAS, SOUNDED LIKE THE NOISE GOT LOUDER WITH SPEED.
I AM THINKING THE ROTOR IS WARPED....COULD IT BE ANYTHING ELSE? BESIDES THE NOISE THE ROTOR LOOKS GOOD, AND I KNOW THERE ISNT A WHOLE LOT OF CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE BRACKET AND THE ROTOR. JUST EYEBALLING FROM THE REAR, I CANT TELL IF IT WOBBLES OR NOT.
THE BIKE HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 10 YRS, COULD THE ROTORS WARP FROM SITTING, OR MAYBE THE WHEEL? IT WAS STORED ON ITS CENTER STAND.
86' GL1200A SEi
Yes, it could be one more thing. The caliper guide pins or slider pins. They could be not allowing the pads to retract enough causing drag. When you change pads, those pins need to be cleaned and greased.
Check that out. You can also tell if the rotor is getting hot.
As far as a warped rotor, the easiest way to know that is to stop the bike with that brake. If the bike stops normally, it ain't warped. If if surges a little or a lot (you'll know a warped rotor if it does this) it's warped. You can also run the engine, slip it in first and get down there and look at the edge of the rotor. See how true it is visually.
____________________
All I wanna do is ride, ride, ride!....And enjoy every minute of it too!
|
ralroder
Member
back to top
|
Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:29 pm | 14th Post |
|
WING-RIDER;
HELLO THERE! I HAVE REMOVED ALL THE CALIPERS FOR REBUILDING BECAUSE I THOUGHT THAT WAS THE PROBLEM. I HAVE RAN IT IN 1ST GEAR, AND EYEBALLED IT BUT I CANT TELL IS IT WOBBLES OR NOT. THE ROTOR IS RUBBING THE CALIPER BRACKET JUST ON THE LOWER EDGE OF THE ROTOR I CAN SEE THE RUST HAD BEEN SCRAPED ALITTLE. I WORRIED MYBE THE WHEEL MIGHT HAVE WARPED, OR JUST THE ROTOR. (I DONT KNOW WHATS WORST NEW ROTOR AROUND $500.00, OR NEW WHEEL I HAVNT PRICED)
____________________
____________________
Jerry
1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi
|
pidjones
Very Active Member
back to top
|
Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 08:56 pm | 15th Post |
|
As I remember, the caliper is supposed to float on the pins. It could be bound up. and has worn the pads on one side until it scrapes. Mine had old tires which had grown in diameter with age. The rear sidewall was hitting the drive tube. New EIIIs fixed that!
____________________
"Love 'em all... Let God sort 'em out!"
'52 wife - '69 daughter - '83 daughter
ex '86 SE-i
ex '77 GL1000
|
Current time is 07:44 pm
| |
|
