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wmaki01
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Posted: Sat May 10th, 2008 09:37 pm | 1st Post |
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Hey all, pardon me if this has been answered before, I searched, but couldn't find anything.
So yesterday, I install a new set of front blinkers from Dennis Kirk onto my 1979 GL1000. They go on no problems, plug in, and work perfectly. I took her out for a ride and put about 30 or 35 miles on with no problems.
Today, I go outside to start her up for a ride, and get no response from the starter button. When I turn the ignition on, the neutral light was on, the oil light was on, and the horn works, but when I push the starter button, nothing happens at all.
I checked the battery, and it's putting out just under 13 volts. I checked the main fuse, and it's got 12 point something going to it, and 12 point something coming out of it.
I checked the other fuses, and nothing is blown. I tested with a multimeter, and only the right 3 have any power. The 3 on the left are reading 0 volts.
So, the oil light and neutral light are working and the horn is working. The rear brake light works, and the rear blinkers are working. My gauges are working too.
The starter button isn't working, the headlight and front blinkers aren't working.
Any ideas as to where I should start? I'm not an electrical wizard at all, and am very very frustrated.
Any help would be great!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited on Sat May 10th, 2008 09:38 pm by wmaki01
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1979 Burgandy GL1000
1974 Honda CB550K
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exavid
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Posted: Sat May 10th, 2008 10:09 pm | 2nd Post |
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| I'm not all that familiar with the GL1000 but it looks like the starter disconnect switch could be causing the problem. I don't know why they have that on the 1000 as the later bikes don't. It looks like it should be normally closed to allow the bike to start normally so possibly if you jump across it's terminals and try to start it you could test it.
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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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Gofastandfalldown
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 05:16 am | 3rd Post |
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What Exavid said.
The only common denominator here is the starter button. If the brake lights & panel lights work, but the headlight and starter don't, then it is either the starter button or a wire has come loose somewhere. My money is on the switch.
See diagram below.
Attachment: Starter System.pdf (Downloaded 15 times)
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1978 GL1000
"Honesty may be the best policy, but it's important to remember that apparently, by elimination, dishonesty is the second-best policy" George Carlin R.I.P.
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wmaki01
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 11:36 am | 4th Post |
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Thanks for the input!
I'll take apart the starter button assembly and have a look.
I'm not sure I fully understand the diagram, but I'll study it some more. Why are the headlight and starting system connected? It seems weird to have them on the same circuit like that.
Thanks again!!
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1979 Burgandy GL1000
1974 Honda CB550K
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goldwingnut
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 01:00 pm | 5th Post |
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| So the light goes out when you try to start the bike. That way you get more power to the starter and coils.
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1983 GL 1100 aspencade
It's not how far you ride in a day but in a lifetime.
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wmaki01
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 01:25 pm | 6th Post |
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Ah ha! That makes perfect sense. So, if the lights aren't working at all it would make sense that the switch is bad. Last week, I noticed my headlight flicker out and then back on....maybe my switch has been going out.
I'm hoping to have a chance to pull the switch apart today, wish me luck!
Last edited on Sun May 11th, 2008 01:26 pm by wmaki01
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1979 Burgandy GL1000
1974 Honda CB550K
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goldwingnut
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 01:43 pm | 7th Post |
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| Luck.
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1983 GL 1100 aspencade
It's not how far you ride in a day but in a lifetime.
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motor22
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 04:42 pm | 8th Post |
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| Did you check the kill switch. It could be bad.
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Training will keep you alive. Practice evasive and braking techniques. Please stay safe.
Scott
My Baby http://usera.imagecave.com/motor22/SE-I/
78 Suzuki GS550 (gone)
85 Yamaha 750 Seca (gone)
00 Suzuki 800 Intruder (gone)
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toy4dave
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 03:52 am | 9th Post |
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I had similar problem with my 98 1500 SE. My headlight would go out intermittently or it would not start. Trouble was the starter switch, which kills the headlight during the starting cycle so all your voltage goes to the starter. I took throttle assembly off and spray contact cleaner in and around all the switches as best I could, no more trouble to date. Good luck.
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toy4dave
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wmaki01
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 12:26 pm | 10th Post |
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Well, the masses have spoken, and it sounds like it's the starter switch! I'm hoping to have a chance to take it apart today, I'll keep you posted!
Thanks, all!
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1979 Burgandy GL1000
1974 Honda CB550K
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erinfire703
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 03:57 pm | 11th Post |
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| before you go tearing into it try to spay a lil contact cleaner or wd-40 into the switch and work it several times without the key on......Thats sim to what happened to mine, and its worked fine ever since.
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1975 GL1000
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GSMacLean
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 04:00 pm | 12th Post |
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erinfire703 wrote: before you go tearing into it try to spay a lil contact cleaner or wd-40 into the switch and work it several times without the key on......Thats sim to what happened to mine, and its worked fine ever since.
Don't use WD-40 - it leaves an oily residue behind (to prevent corrosion), however that residue attracts dust and crap, which will make the switch fail again. Use electrical contact cleaner, which will evaporate without leaving a residue.
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erinfire703
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 04:35 pm | 13th Post |
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 Sorry I forget not everybody thinks WD-40 is a cure all!!! I carry my redneck tool kit everywhere I go.....WD-40 and Duct tape.....If it moves and it isn't supposed to tape it......is doesnt move and is supposed to spray it!!!!
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1975 GL1000
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nomados
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 08:55 pm | 14th Post |
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What I did when my starter switch went south is bypassed it. You can use this to troubleshoot it if you want without having to rip apart the switch. (NOT fun) and if you manage to get it back together you are missing your calling as a swiss watch maker. I found out later that these switches are not meant to be serviced. Do the spray in the button trick and save yourself some grief.
To test it just open the left false tank and pull back the big boot hiding all those wires. Connect some jumper wires to the yellow/red stripe wire, the black/ red stripe wire, and the plain black wire as in the picture. These wires go up the handlebars to the switch. The jumpers you see in the picture (white, white/black, and grey) go to a temporary switch in the second pic that I installed in the glove box. Had this like this for over a year now. (good conversation piece...)
I THINK the black /red stripe is the headlight, the yellow / red stripe is the start. The black goes to the ballast resistor circuit as per the wiring diagram (available in the FAQ section.)
Now I did this after I pulled my switch apart, so you'll have to actually disconnect the wires and jump them so that you don't have another path open (the switch is always open to the headlight.) You could try just disconnecting the black / red headlight wire, and the headlight should go off. IF not, it's the other one.
If I'm right, jumping the yellow/red wire to the plain black wire should get your starter turning, and disconnecting the black /red wire should turn your headlight off.
Attachment: starterswitchwiringbypass.jpg (Downloaded 20 times) Last edited on Tue May 13th, 2008 09:04 pm by nomados
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Derek
1975 gl 1000
Chicken Little was just a helmet marketing meeting gone terribly awry.
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nomados
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 08:59 pm | 15th Post |
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3 way switch in glove box. Right is headlight on, left is start, middle is off. Bonus is I can turn the headlight off to save the battery while troubleshooting, etc.
Attachment: starterswitchwiringbypass_switch.jpg (Downloaded 20 times)
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Derek
1975 gl 1000
Chicken Little was just a helmet marketing meeting gone terribly awry.
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