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golden-oldy
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 12:28 pm | 1st Post |
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| hello again from canada. i went for a short spin last night as it was quite cool and i worked half the day,my brakes squil a little at slower speeds.when i got home i put the bike on the highway stand and i could hardly move the front wheel .not sure exactly how to tackle this.do i need to remove the complete front calipers and clean them ,if so not sure how..please help as it is finally warming up....thanks rob from canada
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rob warnett
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RoundmanFabrications
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 12:59 pm | 2nd Post |
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The calipers need to be rebuilt and the bushings the caliper rides on need to be lubricated and operating freely as well.
Caliper rebuilding is pretty straight forward. It's just a matter of cleaning all the parts and putting back together with new seals. The hardest part can be getting the piston out.
As stuck as yours sounds to be, I'd unbolt it from the mount but leave the line connected, wrap some rags around it put a catch can or drain pan under it. Use the master cylinder to push the piston out, continuing to add fluid to the reservoir as the piston comes out so you don't run out. You'll want to flush and put fresh brake fluid in the system anyway.
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Life is Good
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OnaWingandaPrayer
Senior Member
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 01:12 pm | 3rd Post |
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Rob you also will want to check the master cylinder . It will have two ports for the fluid . One large hole about an 1/8 inch and a second that looks large but has a very small orfice in its bottom . The small orfice will clog and block the return fluid , keeping pressure applied .
You didnt say what yr your bike is . If its an 83 ,it has a Unified Braking System . In that system the right front caliper is activated by the rear brake pedal . The rear master is similar to the front in the design of the 2 fluid ports .
I would flush both systems completely till you see clean fluids out of the bleeders.
If you do not have service books , you can go to the " Reference and FAQ Forum " here is a link to a site to download the manuals . It might be of some help to you .
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Mike
83 Interstate,daily driver
93 Aspencade , fastest color at night ! some assembley required . Thankyou Brian for the second chance.
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RoundmanFabrications
Very Active Member
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 01:18 pm | 4th Post |
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OnaWingandaPrayer wrote: It will have two ports for the fluid . One large hole about an 1/8 inch and a second that looks large but has a very small orfice in its bottom . The small orfice will clog and block the return fluid , keeping pressure applied .
....good point. That completely slipped my mind.
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83GoldWinger
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 11:40 pm | 5th Post |
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 golden-oldy, What year is your GL1100 Interstate?
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83GoldWinger
1983 GL1100 Interstate
Candy Regal Brown (the most popular color)
Bought New Jan 25th 1983
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1968 Honda CL350 (my first bike)
Bought in 1969 & still have it!
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exavid
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 01:03 am | 6th Post |
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A plugged small port won't hold pressure in the braking system. The larger port is uncovered when the brake lever or pedal is released which allows brake fluid to pass in either direction to or from the reservoir. What the small port does is vent off any air trapped in the master cylinder. When you squeeze the front brake lever, the large port is shut out of the picture as soon as the master cylinder piston moves forward from the rest position. As the piston moves forward some of the fluid will be routed up into the reservoir from the small port, not much due to the size of the port but enough to clear any air caught in the cylinder. As the piston gets about halfway down the cylinder it covers the small port allowing no fluid to escape during the rest of the stroke so there is solid pressure to the brakes.
As already mentioned the most common cause of dragging brakes is the mounting sleeve located around the smaller mounting bolt corroding and sticking in the caliper. The caliper will be pulled against the rotor, the only way it can totally release is to slide a very small amount away from the rotor, if the sleeve is frozen that can't happen so there's always some pressure on the inside brake pad. Normally you can verify that by inspecting the pads. If the inside one is a lot thinner than the outside one (the one by the pistons) you can bet the sleeve is stuck.
I wouldn't remove the pistons and replace the seals if there's no sign of leakage, clean the exposed part of the pistons with brake cleaner, rags, and a bit of very fine wed or dry paper (600 grit or finer). Then wipe the exposed parts with brake fluid and press them back in with a C-Clamp. Install the new pads and you're ready to put the caliper back on.
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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W.
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golden-oldy
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:24 am | 7th Post |
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| thanks for all the info,my goldwing is a 81, i just finished removing the piston annd cleaning all parts and replacing the fluid .its working 100 percent better only having a little trouble bleeding the brakes properly.they work i just have to pump several times to work.any advice on bleeding would be great. i am pumpimg the brake several times and holding the lever in ,then opening the nipple quickly
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rob warnett
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golden-oldy
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:29 am | 8th Post |
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| thanks for the advice i have already removed the pistons and cleaned them .they were quite dirty with dried out brake fluid.i am now trying to bleed the brake properly.thanks for the help
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rob warnett
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exavid
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 04:14 am | 9th Post |
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I don't know which year 1100 you have so will assume it's not an '83 which needs a slightly different bleeding technique due to the linked brakes. Before you spend too much time bleeding the brakes make sure the caliper sleeves are free to slide from side to side. If they are okay check your master cylinder's two ports as OnaWingandaPrayer mentioned. Be sure to protect all parts of your bike from brake fluid, the stuff attacks plastic and eats paint. When you have the lid off your master cylinder be sure to have everything below it covered with plastic and rags so the stuff can't get on anything.
Get some clear plastic tubing that will fit snugly on the bleeder and drop the loose end into a small can or jar with a 1/2" or so of brake fluid covering the end of the tube. This will act as an airlock so no air can back up into the caliper. The best technique is to loosen the bleed screw then snug it back up just slightly. Pump up some pressure in the master cylinder an just loosen the bleeder enough to allow fluid to come out. Snug the screw back up without releasing the brake lever or pedal. Repeat without letting the reservoir go empty until you no longer see dirty fluid or any bubbles in the fluid coming out of the bleeder.
If you do have an '83 model, you'll bleed the one front brake that's attached to the front brake master cylinder first. Then bleed the other front caliper that's hooked to the rear master cylinder next followed by the rear caliper last.
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If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W.
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