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kennyd
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Posted: Sun May 11th, 2008 11:10 pm | 1st Post |
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I did search...but need clarification please
If I jack up the front, and grab the front wheel, I can move it up/down about 3/16", the play is in the forks-not the stem. so I need new slider bushings correct? My factory service does not list this as a test in the maintenance section, only list's the stem bearing
Also, there is a "notch" in the stem bearing, so I am looking for 1 source for everything. Cyclemax does not seem to have the slider bushings but they have everything else...including the driving lights I also need!
List of parts I need (I think)
Upper/Lower stem bearings
Progressive springs
Fork Oil (what weight-15?)
Forks seals
Fork bushings
Anything Else?
Anybody have a link to a bushing replacement article?
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englishted
Guru
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 07:30 pm | 2nd Post |
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The bushes stop side to side movement, not up and down movement. If you can easily pust the wheel up then your fork oil might need replacing and no more.
Notchy steering isn't good, you will probably need to replace the head bearings.
____________________
Ted Kelly.
Current Wings; 2006 GL1800 & 1997 GL1500se.
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 08:18 pm | 3rd Post |
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I guess my up/down description was mis-leading, I guess fore/aft would be better. I am mainly looking for one source to get everything that I listed.
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exavid
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 08:38 pm | 4th Post |
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| Bike Bandit, Honda Direct Line, Motogrid are three sources. Motogrid is pretty quick and reasonably priced, Honda Direct Line a bit slower and slightly cheaper. You'll need the fork and slider bushings, new seals and dust covers, new stem bearings and the lower dust cover and a new lock washeer. You will need to drive out the outer bearing races from the steering head tube. If you can find someone to remove the lower stem bearing from the steering stem and press the new on on you'd be ahead of the game. That bearing can be a bear to get off and replace. The manual says to drive a screw driver (I use two sharpened ones to give a better taper) between the stem and bearing to start it moving. After that it's a matter of driving it off using a brass drift, brass so you don't damage the steel stem. You can get a couple drifts reasonably at Harbor Freight. When reinstalling the bearings I chill the steering stem for several hours in the freezer, heat the bearing in a 250F oven (dry no grease) and slip the bearing on and carefully drive it on being very careful not to hit any part of it except the inner race. Once it's on and seated you can hand pack it with grease. BE SURE TO SLIP THE DUST SEAL ON FIRST BEFORE THE BEARING GOES ON THE STEM!!
____________________
If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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Hawker22
Guru
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 09:11 pm | 5th Post |
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kennyd wrote: I did search...but need clarification please
If I jack up the front, and grab the front wheel, I can move it up/down about 3/16", the play is in the forks-not the stem. so I need new slider bushings correct? My factory service does not list this as a test in the maintenance section, only list's the stem bearing
Also, there is a "notch" in the stem bearing, so I am looking for 1 source for everything. Cyclemax does not seem to have the slider bushings but they have everything else...including the driving lights I also need!
List of parts I need (I think)
Upper/Lower stem bearings
Progressive springs
Fork Oil (what weight-15?)
Forks seals
Fork bushings
Anything Else?
Anybody have a link to a bushing replacement article?
I could feel a hint of that same movement that you rerfer to, so I changed my bushings and seals. But after the new bushings were in, I could still feel pretty much the same movement. It IS in the forks and not the stem. So you may or may not get results. My old seals and bushings looked in great condition, so I saved them.
____________________
Hawker22(Ken)
Per Ardua Ad Astra
1997 GL1500SE--White Cloud
Skype--Skyhawk22
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 09:29 pm | 6th Post |
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Hawker22 wrote: kennyd wrote: I did search...but need clarification please
If I jack up the front, and grab the front wheel, I can move it up/down about 3/16", the play is in the forks-not the stem. so I need new slider bushings correct? My factory service does not list this as a test in the maintenance section, only list's the stem bearing
Also, there is a "notch" in the stem bearing, so I am looking for 1 source for everything. Cyclemax does not seem to have the slider bushings but they have everything else...including the driving lights I also need!
List of parts I need (I think)
Upper/Lower stem bearings
Progressive springs
Fork Oil (what weight-15?)
Forks seals
Fork bushings
Anything Else?
Anybody have a link to a bushing replacement article?
I could feel a hint of that same movement that you rerfer to, so I changed my bushings and seals. But after the new bushings were in, I could still feel pretty much the same movement. It IS in the forks and not the stem. So you may or may not get results. My old seals and bushings looked in great condition, so I saved them.
Well, I know this-If I brake real hard, I can feel it moving. It's definitely not the stem bearings that has the play.
Thanks for the reply...
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Rudy
Forum Ferret
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 09:34 pm | 7th Post |
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I got all my stuff for that from VencoWings.com
Give them a call from the number on their web site.
Jim and Sue Venne know their stuff.
____________________
Rudy
'89 GL1500K 93k - http://goldwingtech.info
Give & Get help traveling: http://glhelpers.com/members
Buy & Sell your stuff: http://RudysBackyard.com/
SERRASJ photos - http://annualssgwrally.us/coppermine/
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 09:37 pm | 8th Post |
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exavid wrote: Bike Bandit, Honda Direct Line, Motogrid are three sources. Motogrid is pretty quick and reasonably priced, Honda Direct Line a bit slower and slightly cheaper. You'll need the fork and slider bushings, new seals and dust covers, new stem bearings and the lower dust cover and a new lock washeer. You will need to drive out the outer bearing races from the steering head tube. If you can find someone to remove the lower stem bearing from the steering stem and press the new on on you'd be ahead of the game. That bearing can be a bear to get off and replace. The manual says to drive a screw driver (I use two sharpened ones to give a better taper) between the stem and bearing to start it moving. After that it's a matter of driving it off using a brass drift, brass so you don't damage the steel stem. You can get a couple drifts reasonably at Harbor Freight. When reinstalling the bearings I chill the steering stem for several hours in the freezer, heat the bearing in a 250F oven (dry no grease) and slip the bearing on and carefully drive it on being very careful not to hit any part of it except the inner race. Once it's on and seated you can hand pack it with grease. BE SURE TO SLIP THE DUST SEAL ON FIRST BEFORE THE BEARING GOES ON THE STEM!!
Thanks,
I have a well equipped shop, and have used to freezer/oven trick on many occasions myself. I also have the brass punches...
Mobil 1 synthetic grease OK for the stem bearings?
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 10:48 pm | 9th Post |
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Rudy wrote: I got all my stuff for that from VencoWings.com
Give them a call from the number on their web site.
Jim and Sue Venne know their stuff.
Thanks,
I tried to order from the website, but found it not very user-friendly so I gave up. I ordered from CylcleMax and Motogrid.
Thanks for all the help so far
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Rudy
Forum Ferret
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 11:22 am | 10th Post |
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kennyd wrote: Rudy wrote: I got all my stuff for that from VencoWings.com
Give them a call from the number on their web site.
Jim and Sue Venne know their stuff.
Thanks,
I tried to order from the website, but found it not very user-friendly so I gave up. I ordered from CylcleMax and Motogrid.
Thanks for all the help so far
Hence the...
" Give them a call from the number on their web site."
portion of the message.
____________________
Rudy
'89 GL1500K 93k - http://goldwingtech.info
Give & Get help traveling: http://glhelpers.com/members
Buy & Sell your stuff: http://RudysBackyard.com/
SERRASJ photos - http://annualssgwrally.us/coppermine/
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exavid
Top Poster
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 04:39 pm | 11th Post |
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kennyd wrote: Mobil 1 synthetic grease OK for the stem bearings?
Should be fine, just about any wheel bearing type grease ought to do the job, there's no heat or heavy pressure on the bearings anyway. Mainly the stuff is to keep water off the bearing surfaces in this application.
____________________
If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 26th, 2008 02:34 am | 12th Post |
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Well over the last week, I finished the job...
-New slider bushings
-New Progressive springs
-New fork seals
-New Stem bearings
-New BelRay 10w fork oil
Also changed:
-Air filter
-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs
I made two tools to help do the job thanks to the postings of others on this forum...THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR IDEAS!
Attachment: DSC06851 (Large).JPG (Downloaded 33 times)
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 26th, 2008 02:35 am | 13th Post |
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Second picture
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 26th, 2008 02:35 am | 14th Post |
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kennyd
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Posted: Mon May 26th, 2008 02:36 am | 15th Post |
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tdbieber
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Posted: Mon May 26th, 2008 03:49 am | 16th Post |
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I had a slight movement in my front end when it was jacked up. When I took it in for new tires a couple of weeks ago (also had new seals put in the front forks as one had started to weep a bit), I had it checked out, thinking it was probably the steering stem bearing. It wasn't. The triple clamp had loosened up. Not a good thing! I am sure glad I have a good mechanic! It was a minimal charge to find the problem and fix it. What a difference!
____________________
1999 Candy Red Aspencade
My Original Honey - and she's a keeper!
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exavid
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Posted: Mon May 26th, 2008 05:02 am | 17th Post |
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| I thought I had some play in the forks of my 1500 but after digging into it I found it to be the calipers moving a bit when they operate the TRAC system. Feels like a little bit of play in the handlebars but it really isn't. I noticed it by holding the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth. But when I blocked the front wheel and rocked the bike I didn't feel the play which pretty well proved it wasn't the forks.
____________________
If you can't ride, fly or sail it, why bother?
Paul W. 1993 Aspencade 1982 Aspencade
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