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Alternator Replacement
 Moderated by: wingnut, wexman, tanygaer, redbaron, Patch  
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longrider
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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 03:07 am1st Post
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On a recent post I mentioned that I had to replace my alternator. I did it, with a few minor snags, and thought I was up and running, hoping to NEVER have to remove the engine from the frame again any time in the near future. As you can guess, I was wrong.

About 300 miles later I noticed I was having some of the same problems that caused me to replace the last alternator. I checked everything but the alternator and found them to be in good shape-to include the wire harness. The resistance test on the alternator told me that my newly replaced unit was dead again. The real surprise was what it looked like when I got to it. Three fried wires. (Hey, this could be the title of a biker blues tune)

When I compared my unit to what I saw in the picture I noticed something strikingly different. The unit in the picture had that extra shielding on the outside of those wires all the way from the body of the alternator to the plug where it exits the housing. My unit only had the sheathing part way along that interior wires and none on the exterior wires.

My advice to all, check the picture and make sure that what you see in the catalog matches what you have in your hand.

Last edited on Tue May 13th, 2008 02:45 am by longrider



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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 07:28 pm2nd Post
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That's a sad tale, but the upside is you are now an expert at pulling the engine. :cheeky1:



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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:31 am3rd Post
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What is the extra wire or shielding? I don't understand what went wrong.

longrider
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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:43 am4th Post
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I must admit that pulling the engine and opening the case was an educational experience I shall not forget.  The sheath or shielding that I referred to is an extra bit of insulation that is wrapped around the three yellow wires that connect the rest of your electrical system to the coils of the alternator.



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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:47 am5th Post
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betyou said oh crap good luck to you



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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:51 am6th Post
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From what I could see, the three wires experienced a lot of heat. The plastic insulation melted, exposing the three wires to the metal ring that holds the coils. The exposed wires shorted to the engine case, via the metal inner ring.  That's one theory based on the blackened area on the inner ring where the wires apparently touched it. The wires were exposed around that area and yellow plastic insulation was melted away and blackened as well. The rest of the wire from that point to the plug where it leaves the engine was fine.

Last edited on Tue May 13th, 2008 02:53 am by longrider



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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 01:39 pm7th Post
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I hope you get them to swap it for a new one at no charge.



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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 01:57 pm8th Post
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There are a lot of threads about those lovely three yellow wires overheating......My understanding is that the plug itself is the weak point.  Most recomend cutting the plug and soldering and heat shrinking the wires.  If you have already done that I just be quiet and keep reading:dude:

Last edited on Tue May 13th, 2008 01:58 pm by erinfire703



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 Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 12:08 am9th Post
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They let me exchange it for a new one. I even got to switch to another brand name.  The "plug" I'm referring to is a round plastic or metal piece that gides the three wires through the rear case. The plastic plug has been discarded and the wires soldered together. (I've read a few things on this thread too. But thanks for the info.)



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 Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 12:44 am10th Post
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I hate it for ya. Sounds like the issue was in the case grommet that was bad when you put it in. I hope they gave you something for your labor. Anyway, It's worth it to get it back on the road.



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 Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 04:05 am11th Post
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bummer!!...ive had to redo one cause the wires were not sittin pretty



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