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Bleeding the Breaks on 89 GL1500
 Moderated by: wingnut, WEXY, tanygaer, redbaron, Patch, mikef, MDKramer, AZgl1500  
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DaveClifton
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Joined: Sun May 4th, 2008
Location: Bear, Delaware USA
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Goldwing: GL1500
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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 01:20 pm1st Post
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I have a GL1500 and the Clymer shop manual. 

I feel that I am rather good at doing all my own maintenance and have done so for many years.  However, I have read through the manual a few times and looked at the photos and still have problems understanding how to get the rear saddlebag off to get to the rear break so I can bleed it. 

What am I possibly missing.  Is there an  easy way to do this?????

The break pedal is very soft and must be pumped and pressed all the way to the bottom to just get a minor amount of breaking.

I bleed the front break and found no air so it must be the rear. 

I wish Honda had of put an access door in the saddlebag to allow access. 

Dave

englishted
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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 07:26 pm2nd Post
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First remove the lower cover from the trunk, 4 screws underneath. Pull the cover slightly to the rear to unhook the quik-break tabs and then down to remove it.  Then look at the corner of the saddlebag and pull the two 1" shiny metal clips off the shiny plastic trim that runs around the bottom part of the saddlebag. Now take out the 2 screws that were covered by the clips and pull the painted corner piece off. Now open the sadlebag lid and remove the 4 bolts (2 looking at you and 2 at the bottom) and the saddlebag will come away. You will also have to unhook the cable that opens the saddlebag, it goes through the top rear of the saddlebag and hooks onto the chrome bar inside. 



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Current Wings; 2006 GL1800 & 1997 GL1500se.
DaveClifton
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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 02:38 am3rd Post
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Thanks.  I'll give it a try later this week.

toy4dave
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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 03:32 am4th Post
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You will need to remove the horseshoe shapped trim under the center trunk (4 small screws), and then remove the chrome trim and remove the two screws that hold your left side saddlebag corner trim piece.  Next, remove the 4 screws inside the saddlebag (your tool kit rubber strap anchors to the lower right one) and pull the saddlebag away from the bike, bottom first.  Once loose, you can pivot out of the way and sit on a plastic bucket while you work on the brakes.  It's more invloved to disconnect the saddlebag door actuation cable, so it is easier to just set it off to the rear on the bucket.  Good luck.

HuskerDJ
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 Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 08:48 am5th Post
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Also, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL with brake fluid around your fairing, it will do bad things, see my recent post on how brake fluid can make you cry. 

Another thought, have you bled the front brake too (I think the Left side actuates with the rear break on the 1500), you may have air in that one, and not need to bleed the rear brake at all.

Also, while you're bleeding the brakes, keep bleeding  until all old dark fluid is gone, brake fluid loves moisture, and it doesnt take more fluid than just bleeding them

happy trails!!

Jeff

The HuskerDJ



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