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'77 GL1000 Carb Advice - Replace or Fix?
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Dadiam
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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 05:11 pm1st Post
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I think the best benefit of owning a Goldwing is access to great people and sites like this!

I got this bike last year (after a bit of an issue with a Jeep Liberty and my Suki the year before), and my wife soon dubbed it my "mistress".:D

I road it all last year - ran bit rough at times, but enjoyed the feel of the bike so much that I didn't let it bother me.

Of course, this spring, I wanted to take off in a roar, so I tried to "fix" it.  I brought it in for a carb cleaning, which set me back $400.  It ran better, but still not a smooth as it should of - stutter and stammer at starts; "coughing" while "cruising" under 50mhp or so; an occasional "pop," and a really crappy idle.  I thought that since the carb was just cleaned, it had to be something else, such as the timing, which I tackled by putting in new points and condensers.  The old points showed some pitting, so I felt justified in replacing.  I could not find my timing light, but did the best job I could with a static timing.  The timing advance was clean, free, and seemed to be working fine.

It ran about the same, so I brought it back to the shop I had the carbs cleaned.  They re-cleaned the carb, and said the lower port circuit or something was clogged, which they cleaned.  They also said the carbs were leaking around the throttle rods, and I would need to have the ports drilled.  I wondered how that would work, and why, and they said that it would allow more gas to come in to compensate for the extra air.  This would be another $200.
This sounds rather hokey to me :jumper:, so I did not let them do the drilling.  I have my bike, and it idles much better, but zero power and surging while accelerating, so I still need to do something.  Also, a small oil leak that I noticed only when working on it is now a gusher - need to replaces the o-rings by water pump as well. 

I am really anxious about getting back on, because my wife was just actaully starting to ENJOY riding, and is actually ASKING to go for rides!;) She is saddened as well that it ain't working.

My questions, after this long oratory, are:
1.  Does this carb "fix" seem reasonable?
2.  Would a better plan be to buy a new carb?
3.  Does it sound more like a timing issue?

Thank You!

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confish86
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 02:34 am2nd Post
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Try & ask here http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11991 lots of 1000 owners. When they cleaned the carbs did the put them in a bucket of carb cleaner (also called the bucket of doom). If they did then they just screwed you. On the early G-wing carbs had felt seals on the shafts that sit inside the carbs to seal them up & when you put them in that bucket , it will eat them up & create a vacumm leak.



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hatchetman
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 06:38 am3rd Post
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Take a look in the for sale section of this site for someone who might be selling a set of carbs for a 1000 or an 1100. If you do a carb re build, do not buy after market needles, buy from mother Honda or Randakks. other members have not had good luck with jobber parts in the carbs.
If your throttle rod bushings are worn down, they will alter your fuel air mixture as stated and the only way to fix that is drill them and install new bushings. if you put your bike into a shop to have the carbs repaired, make it clear to the shop owner that your bike runs like crap going in & will run like a stallion going out. With this in mind, get a quote from them. I would look for a different set of carbs in great shape and bolt them on!



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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 01:46 pm4th Post
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Pistol Pete will rebuilt or I think exchange your carbs for $400 and he does it right.



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rcmatt007
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 02:13 pm5th Post
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your best bet will be looking over at http://www.nakedgoldwings.com randakk has carb kits, and as above, pistol pete does first rate work... your local "stealer" screwed you



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Mr. Fix it
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 02:36 pm6th Post
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Randakk's is the man for the GL1000 drivability issues!:clapper:

Randall Washington that is. I have used his kits and they are by far the best for the 1000's to date!

 

The drilling part mentioned above is a good common fix but reading up on the Randakk's site will shine some light on this.

I did this to my friend's 76 and it sure helped out a bunch.

The electronic ignition will help as well as pointed out in his technical area.

Last edited on Tue Jun 24th, 2008 02:38 pm by Mr. Fix it



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Dadiam
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 07:26 pm7th Post
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Thanx!

I have lost all faith in that place.

Dadiam
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 07:31 pm8th Post
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Thanx for all your input!

I have been leaning towards replacing the carbs. There is a local shop that I have heard a lot of good things about, and he has many rebuilt GL1000 carbs on the shelf.

I will check out the carb kits, but I don't have the tools needed to sync them, nor do I have the time to deal with it right now.

I just want it fixed once and for all.  It feels like I'm just  going to be dumping money down a black pit if I keep on this track.

I want to ride again!

Jackhammer01
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 07:42 pm9th Post
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Sadly, the local dealerships are no longer able, capable, or sometimes even willing to work on a machine that has a little age on it. For instance, here in Myrtle Beach, SC, the local dealership will not work on any bike older than 8 years old. Their reasons are simple; their technicians aren't trained on the older bikes. They actually refer most of them to my shop for the needed repairs! And I thank them on a regular basis for the referrals.

Keep in mind the following when you think about taking an older bike to a dealership: The technicians are usually graduates from a motorcycle mechanics school, and at those schools the students are taught Brands, not Systems! The students are also taught the new motors, which means they are taught V-Twins, not Flat-Fours or In-Line 4's, or even the Parallel Twins.

If you have a local mechanic, not technician, in your area, call and ask about his experience with vintage bikes. Give the business to the local independent shop, and you will find yourself much happier, both with out of pocket costs, and with quality of repairs!



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nomados
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 Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 12:36 am10th Post
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Do you know if the shop synced them? Sounds like they could use a little love in that dept. My throttle rods leak a little too, but i have no problem with the running of the bike at all. She goes like snot with those old carbs as long as they are synced properly. All you need is one vacuum guage to get these carbs synced up. There's lots of info in the forum here on how to sync them, but if you need a step by step posted here just ask.

Here's a few:
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=44435&forum_id=1&jump_to=448800#p448800

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/44923.html

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/43154.html

How's your plugs look?  Do they look like they are running lean?

Last edited on Wed Jun 25th, 2008 12:49 am by nomados



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Dadiam
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 Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2008 06:17 am11th Post
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Thanks!  Great Advice!

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 Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2008 06:21 am12th Post
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Plugs are like new, and I brought it in for the carb to sync, which they said they did.  Unfornately, there is now a big puddle of oil under it - the little drip that occassionally  formes under the weep hole is now a major type 3 leak.  Gotta keep the bike in the garage until I can fix the seals.  Maannnn!!!!!:?

The joys of riding an antique!

rcmatt007
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 Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2008 02:29 pm13th Post
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I bought my 1000 new.... so it cannot be an antique:weightlifter:



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 Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2008 02:56 pm14th Post
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The "bushings" probably isn't the problem causing the vacuum leak. The problem is more likely the felt washers that fit around all of the throttle shafts. They seal the bushings in the carb body. Replace the felts and the problem should be solved. I just did this on my 76. With very satisfatory results. I don't think I would trust someone I didn't know do this however. The butterflys have to be disassembled to do this and if they aren't re-installed properly you could have serious problems. We have just discussed on the NGW site. If you don't think you can do this your self, best bet might be to replace the carbs with a rebuilt set or have a trusted carb rebuilder do it for you. Tom

Last edited on Tue Jul 1st, 2008 03:00 pm by dingdong



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 Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2008 06:03 pm15th Post
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Drill the carbs!!???!! Don't go back to that shop! The thing to remember is that this bike ran fine and if it's parts are in good shape it will again. Modifying things to compensate for a deficiency elsewhere is NEVER a good idea. For $400 you could have had the carbs rebuilt by experts. Go to Randakk's site, he's the expert on the 1000 and has links to real carburetor rebuilders.

http://www.randakks.com/



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 Posted: Thu Jul 3rd, 2008 01:42 am16th Post
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Thanx! 

That's more along the lines of what I was thinking.  The bike ran fine (or at least RAN) for 37+ years.  Modifying that just doesn't sound right to me - it seems like cutting off
an arm because it hurts.

I will probably get  new (rebuilt) set of carbs and go from there.

Thank you all for the input - I will let you know as things progress.  I am taking off ofr a couple weeks in Ireland next week, so I do not have much time to do a lot.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 29th, 2008 07:33 am17th Post
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I got back from Ireland and went to work on my water pump issue. I replaced it and all gaskets and o-rings, and filled with Dex-Cool.

It ran like crap! I took it to a mechanic who works on vintage wings, and left it there for a week. I picked it up Saturday morning and drove it 350 miles that day. My butt and back can feel the hiatus, but my heart and mind feel like they have a new lease on life.

What was wrong:
1. Timing was off less than 2 degrees - hardly enough to fret over. (I did a static timing myself)
2. One of the capacitors was shorting causing backfires. This started after my water pump job, so I must have bumped them while working.
3. Carbs were way out of synch - I just had in the first shop to check that very thing.
4. Idle need adjusting.

No drilling, cleaning, or anything needed!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 29th, 2008 09:18 am18th Post
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:clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper::clapper:
Nice ride once she's aaaaall workin isn't it?:D



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