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nswtex
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 12:08 am | 1st Post |
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I have a 1986 aspencade that is acting up on me and is making me very nervous. When I am riding around and I come to a stop I cant get the gears to shift down. I had to eventually turn the motor off give it a bit of a roll before I could get it into neutral. I am now wary to ride it. Any ideas as to what this might be, Clutch springs, worn plates, something else. To replace clutch parts I assume the engine has to be removed. The bike is in great shape and less than 30,000 miles.
I am ready to drive her into the lake. 
Any links to good info on GL1200 engine removal? Thanks for a great forum!
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BC
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 12:30 am | 2nd Post |
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| It sounds like you need to rebuild your clutch master cylinder. Not difficult to rebuild but it is sometimes difficult to get them bled out. I think the kits are about $25.
____________________
Keep riding, it keeps you young.
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SC
Senior Member
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 12:56 am | 3rd Post |
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Check the little things first
Oil in motor
Fluid in clutch
Slave cylinder movement
Gurus will be along shortly
____________________
CAUTION: expressed opinion may lead to chaffing, a FOIL HAT and or FOIL UNDERWAEAR are highly recommended for your protection
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P Yanney
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 12:57 am | 4th Post |
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| Don't drive it in to the lake. Does your clutch engage ok and have you changed the fluid lately? Make sure your bike has clean oil as the clutch and transmission use the same oil. A clutch fluid change may help but my experience with 1200's is they like to be downshifted. If you don't like to do this, when you're coming to a stop between 30 down to 15 mph, drop your gears down before you stop.
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87 GL1200I 48,000 mi
75 CB750K 19,000 mi
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GoldWinger1964
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:13 am | 5th Post |
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| Bleed it first. Might have air in line.
____________________
1985 GL1200
1979 Kawasaki LTD 1000
1980 Kawasaki LTD 1000 Dragbike
KZ 1000 Based 1428cc Car Tire Dragbike
Have 6 Kawasaki KZ & Z1
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newbiker
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:22 am | 6th Post |
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nswtex wrote:
I am ready to drive her into the lake.
Can it be my yard instead of lake? 
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84 Aspencade.
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newbiker
Very Active Member
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:22 am | 7th Post |
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n
Last edited on Thu Aug 28th, 2008 02:55 am by newbiker
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84 Aspencade.
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sasquatch67
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:39 am | 8th Post |
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Hello,
It sounds as though the clutch is just not disengageing. It may be as simple as draining the old fluid from the master cylinder, cleaning it out very well, putting new fluid in (dot 4 only) and bleeding the clutch. It is a fairly easy job to do. I had a very similar problem (I have the identical bike. with 123k still running strong) and I was fortunate enough to just have to bleed it. I would also change the front and rear brake fluid as well. Due to the fact that over time, the fluids attract moisture and lose the properties that apply the pressure. Especially since your bike is not ridden very much (as evident from only 30k miles) it makes the situation even worse. Keep in mind when bleeding the front brakes...the brake system on that bike is integrated meaning that the right- front caliper is actuated by the rear brake pedal. The left front caliper is the only caliper actuated by the front brake lever. So as when using the back brake... the pressure is applied to the front wheel as well as the rear wheel evenly. This forum is a Great Place to acquiire the tech data that you need. There is a manual on here somewhere and if you can't find it I will try to find it and post the link later on.
Good Luck,
Sasquatch67
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nswtex
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 02:57 am | 9th Post |
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Ok an update:
I went out to have a look and the clutch lever would pull all the way in with almost no effort at all. I look in the sight glass of the Master cylinder and it looks low. Ok I throw it on the centerstand and look again, now level is correct. And now the clutch lever pull feels normal with the right amount of resistance. 
So I turn the bike on and shift up into fourth. When I downshift, the indicator (Aspencade) goes from the number 4 to nothing, then if I tap the shifter and release ever so slightly the lever it goes into third and indicator shows 3. Same scenario down to second.
I looked in the manual and to bleed it say I need to hook a small clear plastic tube to the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Here is where you lose respect for me as a Goldwing owner. I can not for the life of me find the location they are refer to.
You guys have averted the lake but now I am concerned that the only way to solve this is the dreaded dealer.
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sasquatch67
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:19 am | 10th Post |
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Unfortunately the dealer may not even want to look at it!!
most dealers won't touch anything over ten years old due to the availability of parts and the likelihood of the continuous returning of other problems that some people like to blame on the previous repairs. therefore they never see the end of the bike and the unhappy customer. As far as the clutch feeling ok... it could very well be an intermittent issue with moisture causing problems only occasionally. It would still be in your best interest to change all the fluids to eliminate the potential for that being the problem..And it just happens to be the cheapest thing to do.
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sasquatch67
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:35 am | 11th Post |
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| The bleed valve is on the back of the engine down low and accessible from the left side of the bike.I believe it is an 8mm and you will need an extension to reach it. I have a picture of the location and will be glad to send it to you if I can figure out where to do that?? Attachment: clutch bleed valve 002.jpg (Downloaded 72 times) Last edited on Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:36 am by sasquatch67
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sasquatch67
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:39 am | 12th Post |
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Sorry, You'll have to excuse the fact that my bike is FILTHY!!
But I think it is pretty easy to see.
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IRAQI RAM
Senior Member
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:41 am | 13th Post |
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Last edited on Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:42 am by IRAQI RAM
____________________
hahahahahahahaCubs lose AGAINhahahhahahahahahah
In your face cubbies.
Bartman for Prez. hahahahhahahahahahahahahaha.
BillyGoat for VicePrez. hahahahhahahahahahahaha.
hahahahahahahaCubs lose AGAINhahahhahahahahahah
Go Sox.
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nswtex
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:51 am | 14th Post |
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Wow you have got to be kidding me. I wrench that plug out without dropping it into the bike never to be seen again and then have to connect a hose to it to bleed it out. 
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sasquatch67
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 04:02 am | 15th Post |
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| You don't have to take it all the way out. Just use a socket and don't worry about the tube. Just put something like a piece of cardboard underneath to catch the fluid. Make sure that you are familiar with the procedure for bleeding before you try it otherwise you may encounter more problems than you started with! That piece is a knipple and it only needs to be turned approx. 1/4 to 1/2 turn to open it. Squeeze the clutch lever and then loosen the bleed valve, the fluid will come out immediately. BEFORE RELEASING THE LEVER... Close the bleed valve then repeat...making sure NOT to release the lever before closing the valve... It may be wise to have somebody help you do this as it is difficult to squeeze the lever and loosen and tighten the valve at the same time..
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sasquatch67
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 04:09 am | 16th Post |
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| ALSO make sure that you check the fluid level in the master cylinder OFTEN making sure not to run it dry, or you'll have to start all over again, and thats never fun!
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William_86
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 04:18 am | 17th Post |
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i have read that being unnable to downshift from above 2nd gear while at a stop, or while the bike is not moving gets hard and its natural all you have to do is release the clutch a bit as you roll the bike a little.
try to downshift before you stop or you will get stuck like this.
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85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
Useful links: Manuals, Randakk's
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gaz1200
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 05:31 am | 18th Post |
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| I had the same problem on my 86. I had to rebuild the slave cylinder which was actually real easy. I probabally could have done without the rebuild though. I pulled my slave cyl. out and it was full of gunk. The PO neglected her real bad. But with some time in cleaning, and installing the rebuild kit she works flawlessly. The whole procedure took less than 2 hours with cleaning and bleeding the system. Hope this helps. David
____________________
I am not Dave in the ditch.
Currently Own: 1986 Goldwing 1200 Interstate
Past bikes I have owned: 1988 Honda Shadow VT800C, 1984 Suzuki GS 350A.
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scotthohio
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 10:22 am | 19th Post |
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I got my 86 Aspencade this spring with 33,000 miles. When I noticed that the clutch was acting up (just like yours) I checked the fluid, and found what looked like mud in the reservoir. I cleaned it out and added new fluid. I also replaced the bleeder screw with a speed bleeder. It made bleeding a one person job.
I have also flushed the brake systems also replacing the bleeders as I went. Everything works great now.
By the way, If you take out the black container with the hose on it, it will make access much easier. You are supposed to drain that container periodically anyway, and now would be a good time.
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Scott
86 GL1200 Aspencade (daily driver)
83 GL1100 Interstate (basket case in work)
82 GL1100 Interstate (sold to my brother)
GL1500 (maybe next year ....)
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OldWingRider
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:24 pm | 20th Post |
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| Does your clutch slip after the engine warms up? My Clymer manual says this is caused by air in the line and to bleed the clutch. If yours does not want to down shift, it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. Also, you indicate you can pull the clutch lever in with no effort at all. That is an indication of air in the line. Before tearing down your clutch, bleed the line first, then rebuild the slave cylinder if necessary, then rebuild the clutch master cylinder if necessary. In other words, try the easy fixes first.
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