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carb sync on 93 1500SE
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Kit Carson
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 Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 09:26 pm21st Post
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I was not even aware they had an electronic device like that. I think it would be a good tool.  And cheaper too.  Most likely better than some of the old ways.  The Carb Tune like I have with shipping and a set of brass adapters(the plastic ones last about three times) the cost would be like $150 dollars or more.

Looks like the internal part of the little device measures the vacuum pulses and lights up the green light when you have the carbs matched up.  Seems to me it would be better than our old stuff.  Be easier to read and not be subject to having to be held perfectly in the vertical position.

Yes you can use the Carb tune or a device like this electronic one on any machine that has two or more carbs, so long as you can find adapters it will work, many bikes like Yamaha and or snowmobiles you just pull the vacuum lines off and slip the tubes over the built in ports.

Technology is always better, new things always work better. 

Kit



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Winger77
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 Posted: Sun Nov 16th, 2008 09:32 pm22nd Post
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Kit Carson wrote: I was not even aware they had an electronic device like that. I think it would be a good tool.  And cheaper too.  Most likely better than some of the old ways.  The Carb Tune like I have with shipping and a set of brass adapters(the plastic ones last about three times) the cost would be like $150 dollars or more.

Looks like the internal part of the little device measures the vacuum pulses and lights up the green light when you have the carbs matched up.  Seems to me it would be better than our old stuff.  Be easier to read and not be subject to having to be held perfectly in the vertical position.

Yes you can use the Carb tune or a device like this electronic one on any machine that has two or more carbs, so long as you can find adapters it will work, many bikes like Yamaha and or snowmobiles you just pull the vacuum lines off and slip the tubes over the built in ports.

Technology is always better, new things always work better. 

Kit

Thats all I needed to know,,,,,,,,,, Thanks a bunch Kit,,,,,,,, your top notch on this forum.


 

Foosman(5)
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 Posted: Mon Nov 17th, 2008 12:50 am23rd Post
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Guys, are we going to make this into a science project or what.

Is this a big deal or not, and is it a simple or complex task? 

There were those that even wanted to make their own manometer.  Why don't we just tell the everyone to put their bike in the shop?  The dealer would be the best for having the latest greatest tools, right.

Here is another poor mans sync tip.  Rebuild the carbs or take them off, and manually set the linkages playing with the sync and idle screw.  Make this initial adjustment to mimic a solid shaft as closely as possible as I stated in the previous post.  Look at them plates very closely to get them to operate in unison.  Worked for me, and after two years later, I saved enough money (~$12) and bought the HF gauge, ha.  Then, in checking the sync, I really only made a minor adjustement.  My other gauge was a glyserin guage that would have required more setup, and I had it for several years - to this day, I still have not use it.

My point is that it is not really that difficult. 

 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 17th, 2008 02:41 am24th Post
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Another method I have used for bench syncing carbs is by finding a number drill with the correct diameter of the master carb butterfly gap, and use this as a gauge to bench set the other carbs for gap. Used this quite often on older KZ900's before you use a vacuum gauge.

Fairly accurate and quick.

Winger77
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 Posted: Mon Nov 17th, 2008 02:45 am25th Post
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Foosman(5) wrote: Guys, are we going to make this into a science project or what.

Is this a big deal or not, and is it a simple or complex task? 

There were those that even wanted to make their own manometer.  Why don't we just tell the everyone to put their bike in the shop?  The dealer would be the best for having the latest greatest tools, right.

Here is another poor mans sync tip.  Rebuild the carbs or take them off, and manually set the linkages playing with the sync and idle screw.  Make this initial adjustment to mimic a solid shaft as closely as possible as I stated in the previous post.  Look at them plates very closely to get them to operate in unison.  Worked for me, and after two years later, I saved enough money (~$12) and bought the HF gauge, ha.  Then, in checking the sync, I really only made a minor adjustement.  My other gauge was a glyserin guage that would have required more setup, and I had it for several years - to this day, I still have not use it.

My point is that it is not really that difficult. 

 


Thank you for your support.


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