Help!!! I need gl1100 engine experts  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 07:13 pm 1st Post
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miroku800
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I have got the engine back in my 1100 and if the 'kill switch' is off it turns over on the starter happily enough but when you try to start it then the fun begins!!

The engine tries to catch but sounds as if it is firing on the 'upstroke' before TDC and gives a very solid sounding 'thump' and the occasional backfire

I have fuel in the cylinders (wet plugs)
I have spark at the plugs (tested in the time-honoured manner)
I believe that the timing is correct (T1 and the camshft pully marks line up with No.1 cylinder at TDC and both tappets 'loose'


I have a series of questions as its many years since I have had to delve into the engine workings, please feel free to answer any or all if you can ( but please preceed your answer with the question number for clarity)

1)   am I right in thinking that when sitting on the bike
       No.1 cyl is front right
       No.2 cyl is front left
       No.3 cyl is rear right
       No.4 cyl is rear left

2)   again when sitting on the bike
       the left hand of the 2 coils is fed by a yellow wire and goes to cyl 1+2
       the right hand of the 2 coils is fed by a blue wire and goes to cyl 3+4
          (there is a black/yellow common)

3)   If I have the Ign on and the plug from No. 1 out and earthed when I rotate the             engine by hand it should spark as it passes T1 on the crank

4)   If I have the Ign on and the plug from No. 2 out and earthed when I rotate the             engine by hand it should spark as it passes T2 on the crank

      I finally gave up when the starter appeared to be locked on (continued to run             after releasing button) and the battery went flat, and when I took the battery off the negative terminal was hot enough to burn my fingers
      
 5)     could the starter switch have welded itself closed due to prolonged attempts to start

 6)   would the neg battery teminal get hot due to the prolonged tries and flatten the battery if the starter got stuck
      
I think that should be enough to go on for now but any ideas will be gratefully received as I am well out of practice (but having to relearn fast)

Many thanks for any help
Rob


 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 07:23 pm 2nd Post
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RB
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1> yes to all

2. I guess not..the reverse it true

3 the plugs won't spark but a static timing light would light up at the appropriate make if timed correctly

4 not good you may have toasted your starter

5 see 4 above

6. I don't think so but not sure about neg...positive yes.

Down load the free color schematics and manuals in the reference section complete shop manuals!!!! FREEEE

Last edited on Tue Mar 17th, 2009 07:46 pm by RB



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 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 07:33 pm 3rd Post
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Whiskerfish
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Sounds like you definetly over did the cranking. The starting system on these is not terrible strong. If she was cranking without the starter button pressed either the starter button itself failed ot the starter solenoid cooked itself inside. The solenoid is nothing but a electro magnet with a copper plate that makes the contacts on it. Sometimes that copper plate will weld itself to the two contacts inside and provide constant current to the starter.

The right hand coil feeds the front 2 plug wires and the left hand feeds the back 2 plugs. Check that.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 07:41 pm 4th Post
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William_86
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to me it sounds like the coils are mixed up. that happened to my friends 1100. it would spark and make it hard to spin and would backfire rly hard.

i hope this helps!..



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 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 08:14 pm 5th Post
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miroku800
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William_86 wrote: to me it sounds like the coils are mixed up. that happened to my friends 1100. it would spark and make it hard to spin and would backfire rly hard.

i hope this helps!..

William
If the left hand coil was fed by the yellow wire and went to cyl 1+2 would that make any difference (Ie the connections were the exact opposite)

Rob

 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 08:19 pm 6th Post
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goldtop
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Thats exactly as I read it. The problem started with the coils not firing the right cylinders in the right order. Williams diagram is the gold dust you need.

As to the starter. Get it rebuilt by an electrial refurbisher of motors and generators. This should be about £40.00 and usually guaranteed for a year. The solenoid and the starter switch could be saved if your really lucky, otherwise try david silver spares. They will have what you need to fix these bits.

These starters and pretty much everything to do with the starter system is fragile and therefore only use short bursts and a max of three times If it won't start look for a fault.

It's and expensive lesson.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 17th, 2009 08:24 pm 7th Post
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oldgoat
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Your complete reversal sounds OK. The coil with the yellow wire would fire cyls 1&2 and the coil with the blue wire would fire cyls 3&4. Just make sure the HT leads from the coil with the yellow feed wire go to cyls 1&2

I'm sure that would work just fine.

Last edited on Tue Mar 17th, 2009 08:26 pm by oldgoat



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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 08:09 am 8th Post
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miroku800
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 I have just had a sudden revelation (I Think)

According to the wiring diagram I have 2 separate spark units and my thoughts are if they were reversed then the pulse generator will be sending pulses and firing the spark 180 deg out, or am I way of track here?

Rob

 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2009 09:57 am 9th Post
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sle104
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You are 100% right would be 180 out

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