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Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums > Forums > Reference and FAQ Forum > Homemade Bearing removal Tools for gl1200

Homemade Bearing removal Tools for gl1200  Rating:  Rating  
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 Posted: Wed Mar 25th, 2009 03:28 pm 1st Post
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RayandTracy



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I have posted pictures with a brief description of what each is showing of the gl1200 bearing tools I made. I have to give Jluvs2dive credit I took his idea and made it work for me, This is why I love this forum/site.

I had a spare front tire laying around so I pulled bearing out to get the pics for other to use. Hope this helps someone as it has me, saved a ton of time, money and headaches.

Ride Safe, Ray

:action:

http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo262/RayandTracy/bearing%20removal%20tool%20homemade/



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 Posted: Wed Mar 25th, 2009 11:19 pm 2nd Post
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scotthohio



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I want to say, thanks for the personal demonstration.
Good creative ideas are what this forum is all about.



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86 GL1200 Aspencade
 Posted: Wed Mar 25th, 2009 11:45 pm 3rd Post
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wingnut



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That's excellent Ray, simple and well thought out. I'll move this to the reference forum later in the week once more people have seen it here.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 12:22 am 4th Post
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William_86



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great tool, took me a couple of minutes to figure out how it worked lol. its great! Thanks



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 Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 12:31 am 5th Post
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Whiskerfish



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Awesome!!



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 Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 02:48 pm 6th Post
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RayandTracy



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Thanks guys,  Its a great feeling cruising down the road after you've worked on your bike to make it better. Thanks Steve for giving us this great place to learn from and to hang around:clapper:

Ride Safe, Ray

:action:



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 03:41 pm 7th Post
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wingnut



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I'll move this to the Reference forum now Ray.



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 03:45 pm 8th Post
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RayandTracy



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THanks Steve! I hope this helps others as it has me. Anyone need more info just pm me and I'll talk you through it, like so many others on here have talked me through other things.

Ride Safe, Ray

:action::waving::action:



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 03:57 pm 9th Post
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GSMacLean



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I did the same thing, only I just cut a single slot instead of two, and I used a screwdriver to expand the bolt instead of a punch.



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 04:06 pm 10th Post
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RayandTracy



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GSMacLean wrote: I did the same thing, only I just cut a single slot instead of two, and I used a screwdriver to expand the bolt instead of a punch



Hey GS, I saw your how to and it is great. I found for me using the punch pushed all 4 sides out and gripped better. But that is what is great about this site finding and sharing different ways to get the job done correctly and at a cost we all can live with:clapper:

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #c6e1d7"Ride Safe, Ray

:action::waving::action:



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 05:05 pm 11th Post
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GSMacLean



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Truthfully...I was originally going to cut two slots, but lacking a bandsaw, I ended up using a hacksaw by hand, and after 10 minutes hard work cutting the one slot, I decided "to hell with that, one will do just fine" :)



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 05:46 pm 12th Post
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RayandTracy



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GSMacLean wrote: Truthfully...I was originally going to cut two slots, but lacking a bandsaw, I ended up using a hacksaw by hand, and after 10 minutes hard work cutting the one slot, I decided "to hell with that, one will do just fine" :)
Thank goodness for a saw-zaw:D



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 Posted: Wed May 6th, 2009 06:19 pm 13th Post
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GSMacLean



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And it's at this point that I will not admit that I have one, along with a collection of fine-toothed bimetallic blades for it, and just didn't think of using it at the time. :)



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 Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 01:17 am 14th Post
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SKWID12



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you guys are brilliant truly brilliant !!!!!:shock: got to do mine this week !! dave



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 Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 01:49 am 15th Post
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Rudy



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I used a bolt for my expander but similar approach...

You tighten the hex bolt while inside the wheel hub.




Attachment: MVC-166S.JPG (Downloaded 277 times)



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Plastic repairs are almost always unique to the shape, location and problem. If you want useful help deciding on the best approach for a specific repair, please include sharp photos. Without these, it is difficult to advise the best way to make repairs.
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 Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 01:51 am 16th Post
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Rudy



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Then you drive it out with the handle that spans the hex bolt head.

But the wedge design is much simpler and faster to make by a long shot.




Attachment: MVC-159S.JPG (Downloaded 278 times)



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Rudy
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Plastic repairs are almost always unique to the shape, location and problem. If you want useful help deciding on the best approach for a specific repair, please include sharp photos. Without these, it is difficult to advise the best way to make repairs.
Dorksider # 1
 Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 03:51 am 17th Post
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RayandTracy



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awsome Rudy, that is what I was trying to do by cutting down on the slipage you get from not making contact on all sides.

Again Cool pics everyone is on it :):action:



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 Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 05:29 am 18th Post
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SKWID12



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i think the threads making contact give the most bite



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 Posted: Mon Jun 8th, 2009 01:48 pm 19th Post
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Rudy



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RayandTracy wrote: awsome Rudy, that is what I was trying to do by cutting down on the slipage you get from not making contact on all sides.

Again Cool pics everyone is on it :):action:

My method requires that a lathe drill the center holes in the 3/4" rods and you want to remember to tap the hole before sawing the X slots.

Also the head of the hex bolt was turned down to reduce the diameter and give more metal face to the driver rod.

Good thing about this approach is uniform outward pressure on all sides and easy removal of the bolt after removal.

Down side is that the expansion is not infinite like it is with a wedge.  I think I will weld a bead around the crown of the bolt just below the head and turn that into a tapered round wedge so I can get more expansion if I want it.

Also I may harden the steel at the driving lip area just because this steel is fairly mild.  Or maybe I'll just beat it to death like everything else.

Works real well otherwise.

Last edited on Mon Jun 8th, 2009 01:49 pm by Rudy



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RudysProducts Info: We are back! Production time is currently 1-3 business days for all in-stock items.

RudysBackyard.com Info: RudysBackyard.com will cease to exist on 5/30/2012 when the domain name expires.

Plastic repairs are almost always unique to the shape, location and problem. If you want useful help deciding on the best approach for a specific repair, please include sharp photos. Without these, it is difficult to advise the best way to make repairs.
Dorksider # 1
 Posted: Tue Jun 9th, 2009 06:07 am 20th Post
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SKWID12



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tried the single cut in the threaded pipe and no go!! those suckers are in there , it there a store i can buy the bearing pullers ,,no time to make the tools ?//



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