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stator/alt conversion  Rate Topic  
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 Posted: Tue Dec 7th, 2004 12:34 am 1st Post
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bigman418

 

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here we go again,same old question...anyway,anyone heard of a conversion using exsisting holes?thought I read or saw somthing saying that,would also like to hear any pros or cons concerning this conversion...and is it the 83 tercel timing belts you use for the 84?may as well do those to while its apart.Thanks so much,from the "New Guy".........Bob:waving:

 

 Posted: Tue Dec 7th, 2004 01:36 am 2nd Post
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Goldwinger1984



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Don't know of any conversion that uses existing holes except for maybe the 30 amp. LTD stator, but you have to change the rotor and back engine cover to do this.

Yes the timing belts that fit are from a 1983 Toyota Tercel 4 cylinder.

Vic

 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 7th, 2004 07:28 am 3rd Post
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Jason



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Also the 1984 Honda Acty car uses the same belt. This car I think was a Japanese market car only, but was available in the UK, Ireland and Australia as an import for a while.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 7th, 2004 07:23 pm 4th Post
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bigman418

 

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Hi Vic,its me Bob from Dover Centre,didnt like your "duct tape or bungee cord"idea,thought Id post somthing here.Guess Ill just go with poorboys idea,seems to be the best and it tucks away nice and neat,did you use this one,and I mean the GM alt????Have a good Xmas Vic,talk to you later.........Bob

Last edited on Tue Dec 7th, 2004 07:26 pm by bigman418

 Posted: Tue Dec 7th, 2004 07:40 pm 5th Post
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Goldwinger1984



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Hi Bob, I guess I didn't quite understand your question over there. 

You wrote, "how can you attach the alternator without using any bolts or brackets" and I replied with duct tape or bungee cords, trying to be funny.  No offense intended in any way, you just caught me in the right mood I guess.

Poorboy wants $120. USD for a partial component kit to mount the car alternator and I can put you in touch with him if you like. 

I chose to do my alternator conversion differently than Poorboy because I didn't want to cut up any plastic on my Wing also, I did not want to move the radiator forward like he did on his. My alternator is also a custom made unit that puts out at very low rpm so I can retain the small drive pulley and that keeps the alternator from over revving at the 7500 rpm redline of my Wing.

When I get time I'll be doing a write up on my system and share it with other Wingers, but, for now I've got a million other things to do that have accumulated recently, for some reason.

Vic

 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 7th, 2004 07:52 pm 6th Post
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Goldwinger1984



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Bob, have we met in person at some time?

I have re read your question and now I think I understand it a little better.

Poorboy's and my conversion do use the original bolts on the frame/engine to mount the conversion alternator, but, there are some alternator conversions that run off the camshaft, but they need special timing covers for that purpose and are quite expensive.  There is also another conversion that mounts on the crash bar and is driven off the cam but, to me it looks awful sitting out there.

Hope this helps.

Vic



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 Posted: Wed Dec 8th, 2004 08:55 pm 7th Post
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BenMC



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I seen a conversion where a car type alternator sat on the left side just inside the lower fairing and I think the drive mush have been off the crankshaft front. Can't remember where I seen it, but it did look very neat indeed.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2004 05:43 pm 8th Post
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BenMC



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Good link. I think that's Bob Kekeis site, nice collection of info for those hard to find diagrams etc.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2004 06:41 pm 9th Post
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Goldwinger1984



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Here's some pics of the conversion I did on my 84 Wing;

http://groups.msn.com/BackYardBuiltGoldwingsBarGrill/alternatorconversion.msnw

 Don's was the inspiration for my conversion, but, I didn't like the idea of cutting/melting/modifying the plastic on my Wing so I did mine differently.  I also found that the alternator Don recommended didn't charge enough at low rpm due to the small crank pulley, so I built a custom alternator that would charge at very low rpm.

If you use a car alternator you may find that output is just not there at low speeds unless you increase the diameter of the crank pulley, problem there is that you will over rev the alternator at redline.  The alternator I built is fairly expensive($200. cdn) so if you do decide to go with the car alternator, just remember that its maximum rpm rating is 10,000 rpm, meaning that if you double the size of the crank pulley you'll be spinning the car alternator at 15,000 rpm and that's why I built the special alternator to charge at low rpm because it doesn't need a larger crank pulley that will over rev the alternator at redline.

I have never had a dead battery since I did my conversion and if my alternator ever dies on the road, I could have it off, rebuilt and back in place and running in 20 minutes.  Try doing that with a stock GL1200 alternator.

Vic



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2004 07:51 pm 10th Post
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ok Vic,where and how do I get my hands on this alt.Im starting in the new yr so,if your aclined to....send me some info buddy?..Bob....O,btw,another question while Ive got your attention...the bolt that goes on the end of the crank for the pulley,I assume its metric,have the size????????Thanks again!!!!

 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2004 07:55 pm 11th Post
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bigman418

 

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And another thing(lol)if you consider the price of the alternative fix(pulling the motor)and going the stock route,thats anywhere from 900 to 1200 bucks,200 or 300 hundred for this method and learning a little more about your wing,dosent seem that expensive to me Vic.........Bob

 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2004 02:43 am 12th Post
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Goldwinger1984



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That's kind of what I thought also Bob, but, I ran into a lot of opposition because of the price of my alternators when I was prepared to sell complete kits. 

It's been quite some time ago that I built my alternator, so, when you are ready and willing to part with some cash, let me know and I'll put together a current price on a custom built alternator for your Wing.

The bolt size for the crank will depend upon which pulley you use to drive the alternator, cast, stamped or aluminum will each require a different length.

Let me know once you have it torn down and we can take it from there.

Vic

 



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2004 11:33 pm 13th Post
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thanks Vic....................I appreciate allllllll the help...Bob

 Posted: Thu Dec 16th, 2004 04:36 am 14th Post
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Mr.1200 wrote: I'll be leaving in the Running stock Stator,Just unplugging it,and it will be used as a back up,should it be needed on a trip with alt failure?

Haveing two working charging systems is not a bad Idea,one active and one idle if called upon!

 

I wonder if there might be a problem leaving the stator unterminated.  There's a possibility you might have a failure due to high voltages being developed in the coils without some type of load.  I'd consider using a 5 or 10 watt resistor around 15-20 ohms to keep transient voltages within reasonable ranges.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 16th, 2004 06:55 pm 15th Post
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Goldwinger1984



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Very valid point exavid, worth investigating.

Vic

 



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 Posted: Fri Oct 24th, 2008 05:23 pm 16th Post
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Vic,

My stator just went out on my 1985 GL1200 LTD and I'm interested in your conversion. I went to the link and it said that it either moved or has been deleted.

Is this correct? If you still have this information somewhere I would greatly appreciate access to it.

Regards,

Robert

 Posted: Fri Oct 24th, 2008 06:19 pm 17th Post
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http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1003.htm



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:13 pm 18th Post
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Newbee1

 

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Thanks Tricky. I appreciate your prompt reply.

Robert

 Posted: Sat Jul 24th, 2010 07:15 pm 19th Post
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Enzo

 

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Hey Vic .Could you send me some pics of your conversion???

Last edited on Sat Jul 24th, 2010 07:19 pm by Enzo

 Posted: Sat Jul 24th, 2010 07:24 pm 20th Post
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Goldwinger1984



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Not mine but very similar:

 

http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1219

 

Vic



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