| gl1100 brake upgrade | Rate Topic |
| Moderators: redbaron, MDKramer, Flyone, AZgl1500 | Page: 1 2   |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 12:28 am | 1st Post |
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I have been riding my goldwing for about a year and a half. I went thru and completely rebuilt the brake system and have bled the brakes correctly. The brakes work well but I am looking for better performance with double up riding. I am looking for bolt on parts that will maximize braking performance. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
____________________ 1982 Int with Vetter V w/lowers |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 01:23 am | 2nd Post |
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have you tryed the steel jackted lines ? they are a big enprovement over old rubber lines .
____________________ 1979 gl1000 dressed --back to naked 1980 gl1100 interstate --side lined 1983 gl1100 interstate the fastest color--RED retired trucker---going to see it again ----on 2 wheels---love it--love it http://serrasj.com/ gwrra 003663 |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 01:31 am | 3rd Post |
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I was fortunate on the Trophy 1200. I removed the Triumph calipers and directly fitted 6-pot calipers from a Suzuki Hayabusa. Sucker stops on a dime. I don't know of an ez upgrade for a wing. Hmmmmm.
____________________ Rusty. Enthusiast of things that ride, drive & fly. No one had seen Tigger since the 6:10 Southbound Freight. He was last heard to say: "Tiggers can do anything!" |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 01:48 am | 4th Post |
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what year is your wing
____________________ [/url] |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 02:01 am | 5th Post |
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I guess I don't understand, but why would anyone on two wheels want brakes to go to the point of sliding the tires? Brakes are designed on vehicles to stop as quickly as possible in the shortest distance. Want a shorter distance stopping, get rid of weight. On my 1983 GL 1100A with a sidecar I have used the brakes (just testing) to the point of sliding the bike tires. The rig started to turn to the right since the sidecar doesn't have brakes. With enough heavy hand and foot my GL 1100A stops. I don't have the steel brake lines installed. If you have a solid feel on the front and back brakes, you are probably good to go. Just allow more distance with a passenger, loaded bags, a trailer, wet roads, etc.. taking a Motorcycle Safety Course might give you a better idea of braking distance. I don't think that you want to test your breaking like I did but if you decide to, please don't take a passenger with you.
____________________ Wineberry-1989 Goldwing GL 1500 Wineberry/Brown-1983 Goldwing GL 1100A with 1983 Wineberry/Brown-California Sidecar Keith |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 02:11 am | 6th Post |
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What year 'wing do you have? The some '82s had twin pot calipers all around. The brakelines have a strategic bend in them (on the front anyway) thus it is caliper and brakeline swap.
____________________ Tim CMA Faith Riders Chapter 732 Don't steal, the government hates competition. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 02:30 am | 7th Post |
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Wichita Scorpion wrote: I guess I don't understand, but why would anyone on two wheels want brakes to go to the point of sliding the tires? Who here indicated that they wanted to go sliding? I must have missed a post. 
____________________ Rusty. Enthusiast of things that ride, drive & fly. No one had seen Tigger since the 6:10 Southbound Freight. He was last heard to say: "Tiggers can do anything!" |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 05:25 am | 8th Post |
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If you have a solid feel on the front and back brakes, you are probably good to go That makes no sense. My 83 has a solid front and rear pedal/lever but I can't stop the thing worth a damn, especially compared to other bikes I've had (VFR, Magna, Suzuki etc). I guess we'd better tell all the sport riders to swich their calipers for single pot versions.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 06:16 am | 9th Post |
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rgbeard wrote: Wichita Scorpion wrote:I guess I don't understand, but why would anyone on two wheels want brakes to go to the point of sliding the tires? Ha, don't think anyone wants to go sliding. Like I said, maybe I missed the point. My above post and this one are just my thoughts on modifying brakes systems that already do the job. Stopping before I hit something is braking performance to me and the brake systems on both my Goldwings are capable of slowing the wheel rotation faster than the forward motion of the bike. I do wonder; why work on a well working brake system that will already slow the wheel rotation faster than the forward motion of the bike. Less weight and/or more tire contact (wider tread tire) will result in shorter stopping distance. OEM brakes systems on my GL 1500 or GL 1100 will stop both bikes safely in the shortest distance possible with the correct brake pressure applied. Practicing emergency stops on a regular basis (recommended by MSC instructors) has given me a feel for the shortest distance stop without losing control (tire breaking contact). To me it boils down to the rider practice and experience, not the OEM brake systems needing a change. Motorcycle Safety Courses give practice and experience on shortest distance stopping safely. I have taken several Courses over the years and for two years I was a GWRRA State Rider Education Coordinator. With the age of my Goldwings, I do plan to install the steel brake lines.
____________________ Wineberry-1989 Goldwing GL 1500 Wineberry/Brown-1983 Goldwing GL 1100A with 1983 Wineberry/Brown-California Sidecar Keith |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 07:13 pm | 10th Post |
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Jason, I agree with WDA, change out the 26 year old rubber brake lines. You will be amazed at the difference.
____________________ Jack 1982 GL1100I 2004 GL1800A |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 07:18 pm | 11th Post |
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Jason, I agree with WDA, change out the 26 year old rubber brake lines. You will be amazed at the difference.
____________________ Jack 1982 GL1100I 2004 GL1800A |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 07:31 pm | 12th Post |
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Hi Jason, I am a firm believer in stock brakes. Are you using Honda brand brake pads? If not, try that first.
____________________ Why ain't we ridin'? http://members.toast.net/BikesPage/ |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 11th, 2009 07:43 pm | 13th Post |
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Please partially disregard some of the things Wichita Scorpion is saying. Some of what he's saying is true, and some of it seems to be spoken from a position of incomplete information. He may be fortunate enough to not have dealt with lousy pads, inferior calipers, swelling brake lines or some of the countless other things that can make a braking system "slowing the wheel rotation" not as good as it could be. Either that, or he wouldn't know a great braking system from a lousy one. He thinks we're all squid-kids wanting to do stoppies or slide about. Not sure where that came from, but I think he's got some deep-seated issues and needs help. That said, many of us DO know about inferior braking systems and we can continue to discuss improvements. One of the most effective options may be to seek out some new pads, HH-rated. You may have glazed pads. They'll give you some of the same symptoms. Steel-braided lines only REALLY give results when replacing old and broken-down brake lines (those that internally swell during braking pressure). Comparing steel-braided to factory-new-regular lines, the difference is much more subtle.
____________________ Rusty. Enthusiast of things that ride, drive & fly. No one had seen Tigger since the 6:10 Southbound Freight. He was last heard to say: "Tiggers can do anything!" |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 01:17 am | 14th Post |
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i think randall is using an aftermarket braking system (upgraded master cylinder) on his project bike, send him an email he may be able to tell you where to go  http://www.randakks.com
____________________ 85' GL 1200 Interstate - 40 MPG@75mph |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 02:38 am | 15th Post |
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The front brakes on my 82 always felt weak to me and a little mushy, that's until I replaced both sets of pads on them. Wow!!! What a difference in stopping power. I also practice power stops in empty parking lots also. It's always good to know how fast you can stop the bike in the shortest distance possible without having either tire break lose. The state of Texas will test you on this the first time you get a MC endorsement.
____________________ Michael Too much chrome to polish, too little time!! Have trailer, will travel!! Not all Wingers are old Wingers. PGR member. Riding in memory of my father, Clyde D. Ward, USN. WWII Myself, USN, Vietnam Vet. 68-72, 74-76 VF-194 aboard the USS. Oriskany USS Saratoga, ships company |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 07:58 am | 16th Post |
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 Hi Jason. I apologize for my post on your thread. You stated that your brakes "work well". Try what others above have suggested for "better performance". rgbeard and chris in va, please accept my apology if my post have misled or offended you.I really enjoy this forum with all the information and friendship. My desire is to be a part of the family here and maybe, sometimes, be able to submit worthwhile information.
____________________ Wineberry-1989 Goldwing GL 1500 Wineberry/Brown-1983 Goldwing GL 1100A with 1983 Wineberry/Brown-California Sidecar Keith |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 03:26 pm | 17th Post |
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On my 1000 I did the steel braid lines and one of the Nissin Master Cyliders that Randakk sells here http://www.randakks.com/Brake%20Parts.htm#1 The difference was very dramatic. I do not know if that M/C is the correct one for your 1100 or not. I believe that the calipers of the stock design on these bikes is adequate (if working properly) but improvements can certainly be made by the upgrade of the lines and M/C.
____________________ Whiskerfish 1978/9 Dressed daily rider 45k miles 1975 Nekid Noisy and Nasty 1975 Nekid in pieces parts |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 12th, 2009 06:06 pm | 18th Post |
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Geee. You took me too seriously. Most people tell me to f*ck off when I'm being a snot.   Now I owe you a beer (or whatever you drink).  Happy Easter from Sunny Ensenada.
____________________ Rusty. Enthusiast of things that ride, drive & fly. No one had seen Tigger since the 6:10 Southbound Freight. He was last heard to say: "Tiggers can do anything!" |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 02:51 pm | 19th Post |
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Sorry guys had a big day with the kiddo's at church on Sunday and did not get back online till this morning. I have had the Motor cycle safety course, I do not want to slide the tires. I DO have the steel braided lines in the frt on my 1982 standard. The brakes are working as they should, in the way of applying and releasing as normal. Even pad wear etc. But they are definatly not up to par with newer bike. I wiegh about 300 lbs. This is not going to change soon. I am just wondering if anyone has upgraded their brakes with either better pads, larger calipers and rotors, etc that was cost effective and bolt on. Thanks for all the responses guys once again you show how great a community we have here. Sincerly Jason M.
____________________ 1982 Int with Vetter V w/lowers |
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| Posted: Mon Apr 13th, 2009 05:34 pm | 20th Post |
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Not quite sure what you mean by "not up to par." The brakes can only do so much, after that, it's up to the tires and the weight of the bike. My 1100 certainly does not stop as fast as my old GSXR. But my GSXR weighed half as much, and had much fatter tires, so the contact patch was larger, meaning more friction against the ground. It also had softer tires, which again, means more friction against the ground. If I took my GSXR to the point where the tires were about to lock up and skid, it meant that I was braking so hard that I was having trouble staying on the bike. The brakes on my 82 GL1100 can easily lock the front and rear wheels, independently or together. That means the brakes are sized correctly for the bike. After that, it's up to the tires and road condition. So...can you lock the brakes up now? If so, no "bolt on parts" are going to improve your braking performance. The only thing left to improve is the tires. You can try softer rubber, but you will sacrifice the amount of mileage you will get out of the tires before they wear out. If you CAN'T lock up the brakes...then there is something still wrong with the brake system. Stainless steel lines are great, but they improve "feel" and accuracy, they do not improve overall performance. If your brakes stopped your bike from 60 mph in 150 feet with rubber lines, they will stop it in 150 feet with stainless lines.
____________________ http://www.goldwingdocs.com Read my illustrated How To guides! |
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